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| BGS4MY |
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Hi guys im a new member to this forum, i own a 98 fairmont ghia had it for a year now. I have currently put a full exhaust system on it which consists of genie headers, redback hi-flow cat and redback 2 1/2 inch exhaust (2 mufflers). I am currently looking to a cam but not sure which one to get. I have been reading forums on here that other ppl posted cam topics about their cars and most say to get a wade cam. Can anyone help me out with telling me which is best suited cam to get without modding the engine to fit or suit the cam? Thanks heaps.
Sam |
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| EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
Hi Sam,
Welcome to Fordmods. If it's an Auto, get a Wade 1636, that's about as big as you can go without having idling / stalling issues. I put a 1636 in my EF auto about 12 months ago and am very happy with it. The idle 'hunts' a little, but the computer seems to be able to control it OK. You'll notice a much stronger midrange with the 1636. You'll need to reset your base idle after installing it. It may take a few hundred km for the computer to sort out the idle. Wade do discounts for Fordmods members and I was really happy with thier service. Probably best value for $ mod you can do. If you keep the stock intake, it should idle better than if you install cold air intakes and do airbox mods. I picked up about 11 rwkw just with the 1636, now 120 rwkw on petrol and 117 rwkw on LPG. I also installed a T.I. Performance 'Preprogrammed' J3 chip ($200) and it helped with the idle and made it a lot smoother, economy is a little better too. Good luck with it.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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| BGS4MY |
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Thank you for the reply. Yea my mate was telling me to get a 1636 and nothing bigger. Yea its an auto may swith it to manual in the future lol i was also thinking of putting some sort of cold air intake on it like a ss induction or something specific for an e-series but as u said may run lil rough. I had a poddy on it before i put exhaust on and yea ran lil rough, put the original box on and noticed ran smoother on idle.
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| BGS4MY |
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Sorry Forgot to ask u how much would a wade cam cost with the discount?? Thanks
Sam |
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| phongus |
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BGS4MY wrote: Sorry Forgot to ask u how much would a wade cam cost with the discount?? Thanks Sam Have a look in their section of the forum. They are a sponsor so you can ask questions away. wade-cams-f27/ Priceys vary between billet or regrind. I believe billet is still unavailable, but regrinds work just fine. I agree EF Wagon, nothing more than a 1636 for the auto, unless you have a hi-stall converter or manual box, then you can get the 1673...which idles a little rougher and stalls at times when the ECU is reset. 1636 is good for low to mid for power, 1673 is for mid to high...so if the engine doesn't see above 3000RPM, I suggest you stick with 1636 for more usable power. In saying that, it all depends on the tuning and timing setting...advance/retarded will change a lot. PM/Email Wade Cams for more info.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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They are around $150 with an exchange of your old cam.
I had a 1673 in an auto and it went good bit laggy under 2500 rpm But after that pulled hard to 4800rpm close to the redline.
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| arm79 |
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You'll all note he said a 1998 Fairmont Ghia... Before recommending cam's one should be sure it's not a hybrid motor that a 1636 wont fit in. Otherwise broken bits will result.
 But I had a 1636 in an EL and it was a good cam. Nice with the auto (they work better with the XR6 computers), and a bit more torquey down low. Never dyno'd it, but overall was a good cheap mod. |
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| GeZza200 |
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go the 1673 (if you have a the e-series head) i have had the 1636 and 1673 (AU equivalent) in my car and the 1673 is much more fun and has more power. I also have an auto. I would get a J3 at the same time you put the cam in.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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I think feb 98 onwards is the AU head
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| phongus |
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arm79 wrote: You'll all note he said a 1998 Fairmont Ghia... Before recommending cam's one should be sure it's not a hybrid motor that a 1636 wont fit in. Otherwise broken bits will result. But I had a 1636 in an EL and it was a good cam. Nice with the auto (they work better with the XR6 computers), and a bit more torquey down low. Never dyno'd it, but overall was a good cheap mod. ...my bad...done too much reading today that I just skimmed through it haha.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| BGS4MY |
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Thank you guys for the help and inputs, may go with the wade 1636 as some of u guys mentioned and a mate of mine recomended so all gota do is save some dosh and hello cam
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| phongus |
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BGS4MY wrote: Thank you guys for the help and inputs, may go with the wade 1636 as some of u guys mentioned and a mate of mine recomended so all gota do is save some dosh and hello cam Just make sure that your engine doesn't have the AU head and running gear. If it's the case, get the AU equivalent of the 1636. I am sure WadeCams can help you out with that.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| BGS4MY |
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Naa dont think its an au head and running gear. I think my car was an august built, but thanks for the tip
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| GeZza200 |
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if its August 1998 its an AU head
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| arm79 |
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BGS4MY wrote: Naa dont think its an au head and running gear. I think my car was an august built, but thanks for the tip Yeah, if its an Aug 98 build, it would have to be one of the very very very last EL's ever produced, and would have pretty much a complete AU motor. Lift the belt cover and check the model code on the head. 96DT or WR2Axxxxx is AU, and you'll need the appropriate cam. 94DT or 95DT is EF/EL. |
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