Economy Guide.. For every car!
Updated hypermiler info 16/11/09)

Newest tip: You know how your window fogs up and you need aircon to get the bugger clear enough to see. Buy a micro fiber wiper and clean her up, you will find you dont need the aircon anywhere near as much!!!

Firstly, read everything here regarding economy: http://www.autospeed.com
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2597/article.html

I cannot recommend this site enough!

All this concern on fuel efficiency all boils down to money, i.e. how to spend less, so let’s keep that in mind as we read along.

I have used a star system for each area of benefit, the higher the amount of stars, the better the method. I am using 0-5 stars with 5 stars being the highest (i.e. best)

Vehicle economy: What a broad topic, lets narrow it down:
It is not just about how efficient the engine is, there are more factors; the driver, the vehicle, the driving conditions, the vehicle’s overall condition and gadgets and methods that you use to make your car more efficient to run.

Buy yourself a service manual, 5 stars!
By doing this a simple oil and filter change becomes a $50 job with an hour of your time instead of paying a mechanic who may or may not do it properly for you who charges you $150+. Save yourself a lot of money, give yourself something healthy to do and start a new interest, looking after your car. An enormous amount of ‘how to’ information can be had for a lousy $40, the “Gregory’s Guides” are very informative and they are a trusted and well known brand in Australia for every type of car. Think of it this way, you’ve saved yourself $100 by changing your oil, oil filter and air filter by yourself in two hours, that is $50 in your pocket for each hours work, 5 stars.

Minimise how much you drive, 3 stars!
This is one of the best methods. Make a big shopping list so that when you get to town you remember to buy everything instead of making two or more trips over the day/week etc. This area was only given 3 stars as it is a great way to save on fuel, but it does lower your usage of the car.

Change your driving style, 4 stars!
This refers to how quickly you accelerate, what speeds you sit on, and whether you accelerate up hills (instead of maintaining the same level of acceleration) allowing the car to slow by 10-20kmph. A big area for improvement if you do not already take care in this area. Expect benefits of 20-25 percent in this area.
Driving style covers a few areas:

-Accelerate slower then usual, not alot, just a little; say take 12-15seconds to get to 60kmph, gently increasing acceleration. This is where most of your fuel goes, getting from 0 to cruising speeds, stopping and starting.

-Braking, watching the traffic conditions ahead of you, if you notice a light has gone yellow then you should slow down, roll for a while, this increases the time it takes to get to the lights, so the slower you end up travelling towards the lights the more likely you have ‘saved’ that momentum so that when you go to accelerate again you only need to go from 40-60, not 0-60. You’ve just saved a lot of fuel.

When you know a hill is coming up, allow the car to slow 10-15kph by holding your current rate of acceleration, as long as you are not congesting traffic this is a great way to save on fuel. Then on the way down the hill slowly speed back up to the limit. Another thing I do but don’t recommended for liability purposes is speeding up if there is a dip before an incline (but only slightly), holding the rate of acceleration up the incline to a point where i get to the top doing the limit or a little less, then repeat the process going down the hill.

How fast you drive, 3 stars! Is a great area to improve on your economy.
Did you know that by travelling at 100kph instead of 90kph your wind resistance has doubled! It doubles again at 110kph, then again at 120kph etc. Every extra 10kph on top of 90kph, and with each extra 10kph your fuel usage jumps an extra 20%! This area was given 4 stars as it will save you a lot of fuel and it is safer, although due to time constraints and driving conditions it is not always practical.

With all that said, different models of car have different engines, transmissions and gear and differential ratios, so it is true to say that each car will have a different ‘most efficient’ cruising speed. My 1997 Falcon Fairmont has a factory fuel usage display on the dashboard which tells me each second the ‘litres per hundred’ i am using. On flat dry road i will find that at 100kph i am using 7-9lp100 (litres per hundred), at 110kph i am using 8-10lp100 but at 130kph i am using 6-7lp100!
It is just something to get you thinking about your car, if you pay attention to the cars habits and norms then you can get to drive the car better.

Fuel Selection, 3.5 stars!
This is an area that 99% of people think they understand, but they actually know very little about. For a petroleum car, at the service station you have 3 options, but first let me explain what the term ‘octane’ actually means:
- ‘Octane’ refers to a fuels ignition properties, the first being how much energy it takes to ignite the fuel and second how quickly the fuel takes to combust. At higher altitudes a higher octane fuel is needed as the air is thinner, so less oxygen is entering the engine, otherwise detonation occurs.

Lower octane fuels require less energy to ignite and burn faster than fuels of a higher octane. Cars that have the timing advanced or have a higher compression ratio require a higher octane fuel to prevent pinging/detonation. The most common fuels (in Australia) are:
-91 octane: Takes less energy to ignite and burns quicker than most other mainstream fuels.

-95 octane (both come in ethanol and non-ethanol blends): The ethanol blend fuel contains a 20% blend of a substance known as ethanol, which is not all that it is made out to be. Ethanol is only good for cars that are designed to run off it. Ethanol will cause damage to 98% of cars as they are simply not designed to run off ethanol fuel. You do not get the same mileage for the same dollar value of your recommended fuel, besides being cheaper; for a typical Australian car $20 gets you (6th June 2008)

91 octane fuel ($1.65 per Litre) Buys you12.1 Litres Taking you 151 kilometres.
95 octane fuel- Ethanol ($1.25 per Litre) Buys you 16 Litres Taking you 120 kilometres.
98 octane fuel
($1.88 per Litre) Buys you 10.64 Litres Taking you 140 kilometres.

The above is for example purposes only, to show you that ‘yes, you do get more fuel, but because its no good in our engines its not taking you as far as the equivalent dollar amount of regular fuel.
-98 octane:
The highest quality petrol you can buy, this is better for your engine even if the manual recommends otherwise as it is a cleaner fuel and the higher octane fuel does absorb some of the water residue in your fuel tank which builds up overtime (from both the fuel itself and the condensation created by the heating and cooling of the fuel from day to night etc)

-LPG (100-108octane):
Lpg is a great fuel, it is currently subsidized by the government and there is currently a rebate being offered for the installation of an lpg kit. LPG’s 1oo-108 octane rating means it is actually a much better fuel than petroleum in regards to pre-ignition, why is it that most petrol cars use more Liters per 100 kilometers of lpg than petrol? That is because our engines are designed to run petrol, so therefore they are generally more efficient to run on petrol. It is not difficult to get a petrol engine running more efficiently on lpg than petrol and that is done by:
-increasing the engines compression ratio and adjusting engine timing.
The cam can be replaced with one better suited to lpg.
The mixtures of lpg is made up of propane and butane, propane being having very high octane (~110) and butane being quite ordinary (~60), major distributors of fuels (Caltex, Shell, BP etc) run mixtures similar to as follows:

Summer: 60% propane:40% butane, as propane has a higher octane (knock) rating which is needed from the ambient temperature being higher in summer then in winter.

Winter: 40% propane:60% butane, as the air temperature is obviously lower in winter, a fuel with a lower octane rating is required.

tip: find a local distributor who sells 100% propane fuel, you will find you get 100-150km's more out of a tank and it will only be a few cents per litre more.

Advancing your ignition to a large entent it a great way to gain 10% economy if you avoid petrol, but when you need to fully understand how lpg works:
-Lpg requires lots of ignition advance at idle/cruise rpm, but to be retarded in high rpm.
So if you are advancing your ignition timing to save you 15%, always remember you cant run high load for a moment, because you will heat detonation (sounds like coins jingling in your engine).
(See below, sub-heading "Ignition system" for details on advancing your ignition timing)

Overall condition of the car, 4 stars! If a car is in good condition and well looked after, it will use less petrol, whereas if a car is not maintained, it will use more. Your car needs to be maintained to a practical level where the air, oil and fuel filters are changed when nessercary, if these filters become blocked and restrict flow then it will not perform as well as it should.

For a car to be well maintained the following filters need to be changed periodically:
Oil filters, 1 star! need to be changed with every second oil change generally, but if you are changing brands of oil then it is recommended you change the filter also, filters are responsible for filtering out metal particles out of the oil, but there is a little more to it that everyone can learn something from.

Buy the biggest filter that will fit! Why? The bigger filter will be able to trap more particles, meaning it lasts longer, for a few extra dollars it is worth it. Also ensure that the filter has an “anti-drainback valve” which retains oil in the filter for quick lubrication at engine start up.


Air filters, 3 stars! 4 stars if you are running lpg! Must read
"The brand spankers new clean filter made no difference to intake flow over the old, filthy filter. Y’see, that old filthy filter still flowed very well..." (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2232/article.html)
Dont bother changing the factory filter:
The cars air filter is one of the biggest contributors to wasted fuel. It is not given the respect it deserves in most cars. Have you ever seen a diesel 4x4, van or truck blowing lots of smoke? That is caused (90% of the time) by a dirty air filter and that driver is pumping emissions (and his pay cheque) straight into the atmosphere.

Its commonly understood that in lpg vehicles the air filter provides a very vital role also, ensure its kept as clean as possible, i just pull mine out, remove the leaves, give it a tap and chuck it back in, and i get 450km's off a 68lt lpg tank with a high flow head, 1521a wade cam (tractor) and its an automatic, and thats 450km's around town! One thing i have always done with my air filters (when i have access to an air compressor) is carefully blowing them clean with an air compressor, you will be amazed with how much dust comes out when you apply a bit of air. When you do this, ensure you blow from the clean side of the air filter out, so you don’t push dust and dirt into the air filter element.

If you do this every month or more then you will find the same filter will last you twice / three times as long as usual, saving you $30-40 a pop!
Washable air filters: Some people will disagree, but if a filter is able to flow higher, it just means its not trapping the same amount of dirt, i'd love to read an article proving this wrong, but ive spoken to alot of mechanics and quite a few who race and they recommend sticking with an OEM filter

Air Intakes
CAI: Cold air intake, great for reducing intake temperatures, great for power.
HAI: Hot air intake (ok i made the term up), but here is how it works:
Hotter air going into your engine makes for more efficient motoring, by increasing flame propagation in the cylinders and taking heat away from your cylinder walls.
The ecu in an engine has whats known as an IAT sensor, abbreviated from Intake Air Temperature, the varying air temperature has an effect on how much fuel is pumped in.
The hotter the air, the less fuel is squirted in with each injector cycle
The colder the air, the more fuel is squirted in.. See where this is going?

So by having hotter air flowing into your engine, you will lose a little power but gain on your economy and your throttle response somewhat.

To do this effectively you can cut holes in the side of your air box before the filter, redirect your intake to suck air from around your exhaust extractors, or an area in your engine bay where there is a lot of hot air.

Fuel filters, 1 star!
Your cars fuel filter is responsible for stopping all the deposits that build up in your fuel tank from reaching your motor, it’s important to make sure that this is changed when required, such as at major service intervals or when symptoms such as ‘hunting’ occurs (when an engines idle seems to be ‘hunting’, rising and falling instead of sitting on a constant figure). Another symptom is when the car is being driven hard, there is a power loss at a certain level of acceleration, but this is only one possibility.

Ignition system, 3 stars!
See the link on how to advance the timing in an E series falcon:
[html]http://www.fordmods.com/post1067274.html?hilit=ignition%20timing#p1067274[/html]
Consisting of everything from your ignition coil, to your distributor, spark plugs and leads. All these parts need to be kept in tip top shape, which is not at all expensive compared to letting them go unchecked.

Your spark plugs need to be re-gapped every time you change your oil, check your manual for service intervals that may differ from the above and for gap sizes. Ensure that you have the correct fitting for your spark plugs and when you remove the spark plug leads you hold the thick plug end firmly and ‘twist’ it off the plug instead of just pulling it off, these wires are very high quality but can be damaged easily, they are also relatively expensive to replace so be careful.

Tyres, 2 stars!
Your cars tyres are constantly rubbing on the road. You can end up burning a lot of fuel unnessercarily just because your tyres are not inflated correctly. Ensure your tyres are inflated to recommended pressures and check these every few weeks to ensure your getting the maximum amount of mileage possible.

It is also possible to inflate your tyres safely past the recommended pressures, this reduces the amount of rolling resistance so your car travels further, more efficiently and will improve the responsiveness to your steering. A safe limit is ~10% more pressure (usually 38psi, give 42-44psi a try).

Do note though, the higher the pressure in the tyres, the less contact they come in with the road surface, which is good, until you start driving on a dirt or gravel road, so make sure you remember to let your tyres down if you are to be travelling on such a surface, if you frequent dirt roads often it might be wise to skip this section.

Don’t be afraid, your tyres will not explode a few psi higher than usual! Tyres can easily take upto 60psi, but this is definitely not recommended, as your tyres will wear differently to normal.

Typically, at recommended pressures, front tyres wear on the outsides, and inversely rear tyres wear on the insides. You can even out the wear on your front tyres by overinflating them, i run 50psi in my front tyres and i have had 50psi in the rear tyres also, just to see the mileage improvement, i would suggest an 15% increase (freeway), but keep inmind, your ability to brake is compromised.

Now that we have covered all the areas of a standard car, we can go on to all the fun parts that give us extra benefits.

Water injection, 1 star! Invented in world war two by an aviator who discovered that by cooling the inlet air temperatures down by spraying a mist of water into the air intake increased the engines efficiency and power by providing the engine with a denser intake.

This denser intake gave the engine more power and the added effect of running the vehicle on a higher octane, the water also does not compress or combust in the combustion chamber, artificially increasing the engines compression ratio and steam cleaning any carbon deposits left in the engine that have built up over time.
This near free method of increasing your economy can be done by tapping into a vacuum line into your engine along the air intake or better still ‘sprayed’ as a mist into the air between the throttlebody and before the motor.

Be careful that everything is fitted correctly, you don’t want valves and pipes coming lose as a result of bad fitting, if a fitting was to come lose and get sucked into the engine it will cause great amounts of damage and can result in serious injury or death if you happen to be driving at the time, so ensure (along with everything you do) that its done properly using high quality components where needed and making sure it is done properly

In a vacuum setup the water will be sucked in, but if you are going to spray a mist into the engine then you will require a small pump, low volume with high pressure to atomise the water through the jet.
Water injection will leave the internals of your engine as clean a new, it was only after 3 thousand kilometres after I had fitted new spark plugs, but the water injection after only 200 kilometres of use left the spark plugs ‘steam cleaned’ as if someone had gotten a new set and polished them very carefully

Fuel heaters, 1 star!
Fuel heaters are claimed to work well, upto 15% gain (claimed). How they work is by heating the fuel before it enters the engine, which increases the size of the fuel itself, so the same amount of fuel now has a higher surface area, which allows for a more thorough burn of the fuel.

PCV filter, 1 star! Most of you will be asking yourself what a pcv filter is; but lets start with what the pcv is. The term pcv (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) refers to the ventilation duct that collects air from a little hole in your throttle body, runs that into the back breather hole of the rocker cover, this then passes through the rocker cover towards the front before leaving through a fitting there with a 90degree elbow fitting, which then re enters the runners.

The feature of this is to collect the gases, that escaped through the top of the cylinders and recycle it back into the engine. This is great, it cuts back on pollution and makes the car more economical.
>INSERT PHOTOGRAPHS HERE!> I havent quite finished here yet!

This is a good idea, reusing these burnable substances, but the problem with the way that it is now that these gases also contains water vapour and oil residue, which are not good for the burning process. So it would be good if we could trap these somehow and without restriction let the useful gases pass through to the runners as usual.
That’s easy, let me show you how it is done for less than $30.
The parts required are:
1 x air compressor air filter (roughly $23 from Supercheap Auto, cheap is fine).
1 x packet of glass marbles to fill the glass enclosure. (75cents from cheap shop).
2 x appropriate copper fittings to connect your pcv filter inline with the pcv hose. These will need to have one end threaded to suit the air compressor filter, so take it with you and ensure that they will fit. (See photo and diagram)
1 x roll of Teflon thread tape, to ensure a good seal is maintained between fittings.

Instructions:
1. Unscrew the glass element off the filter and unscrew the small internal filter element, throw away the small filter element then put the screw back in where it came from.
2. At the bottom of the glass filter there is a valve which released positive pressure, you want to get a nut and bolt that will fit in this hole tightly, so take that assembly out and add the nut and bolt, wined the thread wound in some Teflon, so that there is a total vacuum seal.

3. Fill the glass element with marbles, gently as it is made of glass. Screw the glass element back on, ensuring that it is full of marbles, otherwise you will hear clinking when driving.

4. Get your copper fittings and wrap the threads with a little amount of Teflon thread tape, now screw these fittings into your new pcv filter and make sure they are screwed in hard, you don’t want any vacuum loss as a result of a bad fitting.


5. Locate a good area to locate the new pcv filter, its a good idea to locate it away from the engine if possible to stop it from getting hot from the engine, you could mount it on the firewall if convenient. I just left mine hanging on the back of the engine, squished in between the engine and firewall, the hose is quite secure and the filter is light so it isn’t going anywhere, if you notice your idle is higher than usual you may want to check this for any vacuum loss.
[Picture of engine bay]

Fuel additives, 1-2 stars!
Fuel additives are good if done properly. It’s very simple actually, only add small amounts and make sure the ingredients are near 100% pure, otherwise you will be losing efficiency.
Methylated spirits is a good way of cleaning your fuel tank as it absorbs water from the tank and allows the water to pass through the engine and be burnt in the combustion process.

It is recommended you put 1-2 Litres max in a full tank of fuel when it is suspected that you have water in your fuel.

Acetone, is a good way to boost your mileage and it can also reduce your emissions by over 50%, but it is stressed that you only use products that are near 100% pure, which is difficult to come by unless you live near a Bunning’s! As mentioned earlier anything less will only be a step backwards.

Standard grades of acetone around 90% (or less) are not good enough. Acetone that is not pure contains additives like Benzoate and water which prevent proper vaporisation of the fuel, which is exactly what we don’t want.
The following exert is from a book published online by Water4Gas, a must read:
“- Is acetone harmful to my valves?

- Is acetone going to make my gasoline burn faster?

In an article by Lou LaPointe, hosted by Kiker Performance, LaPointe answer both questions by a certain “Absolutely not!” Visit this page to read more: http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/additive.htm”
Acetone works by increasing the viscosity of the petrol itself, providing a more complete burn of the fuel. Like anything, buy in bulk, get a 4 or 5 litre container instead of a 1 litre container as you will get a better price per litre (economies of scale, buy in bulk and save).

You may find you need to replace your fuel filter after the first 3-5 tanks of fuel after running acetone if you notice a drop in mileage, this is a result of the acetone cleaning the ‘gunk’ out of your petrol system and this ends up in your fuel filter.
How much acetone should i use?

"Acetone & Xylol additives to fuel

I added 3 oz. of each to 10 gal. of fuel to a 2000 Toyota RAV 4 and a 1997 Nissan Sentra. The results are roughly a 10% increase in mileage for each. Considering it costs 2 cents per gallon.....it's worth it."
http://www.fuel-saver.org/Forum/showthread.php?tid=1599

"I've used 3-4 oz per 10 gallons now for three years with only positive effects" http://www.mail-archive.com/interact@listserv.capital-master.com/msg00284.html

Oil types, (Taken from wiki)
The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. SAE viscosity gradings include the following: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. Some of the numbers can be suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" or cold-start viscocity, at lower temperature.
Viscocity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperature. The longer it takes, the higher the viscocity, and thus higher SAE code.

Note that the SAE operate a separate viscosity rating system for transmission oils which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a transmission oil (eg 75W-140) do not mean that it is necessarily higher viscosity than an engine oil


The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a low viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIs are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base number when cold and the viscosity of second number when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year, and when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at -35°C, a 5W at -30°C and a 10W is tested at -25°C. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play. Oil circulates through the piston oil rings to cool and lubricate the compression rings. Inside gasoline engines, the top compression ring is exposed to temperatures as high as 320 °F (160 °C).

Many new vehicles are marked to use 5W-20 oil (Honda, Ford, and more recently Toyota) which is not much thinner than a 30W oil. Nay-sayers of 20W oil's ability to protect engines should note that typically, 30W oils shear down into the 20W range anyway. Most engine wear is during start-up and warm-up period, where the thinner 20W oil's flow is desirable. Overall, lab test results of the wear metals contained in used oil samples show low or lower wear with 20W than 30 in applications it is specified for. Some ultra fuel efficient and hybrid vehicles are marked to use 0W-20 oil. For some selective mechanical problems with engines, using a more viscous oil can ameliorate the symptoms, i.e. changing from 5W-20 to 20W-50 may eliminate a knocking noise from the engine but doesn't solve the problem, just "masks" it. Excess amounts of oil consumed by an engine burning it can be addressed by using a thicker oil, a 10W-40 might not burn off as fast compared to a 5W-30. A newer product that also addresses this issue is the "High-Miles" oils now marketed. They tend to be slightly thick for their grades, contain extra additives and seal conditioners. Apparently the formulation of these oils works well in many instances.

Hydrogen generation:
Also founded by an aviator, who noticed that flying lower over a body of water the plane did have quite a bit more power, he discovered the hydrogen was being sucked into the intake.

Now here is a huge topic that i have been studying in depth lately, before you read on you need to know that i know the argument for why electrolysis cannot work and i know why its not the case.
Let me explain the argument, the law of thermodynamics states that there is a loss of energy when you are converting from one form of energy to another.

For example, converting moving energy into electricity, 100Watts of moving energy will not simply convert to 100Watts of electricity, there is a loss from the conversion process of around 60%. Turning moving energy into electrical energy (a cars alternator uses this process).

So the argument is that whatever electrical power is used to produce hydrogen, the proceeding amount of hydrogen will have a lower energy rating that the power that was used to create it.
This is true, absolutely. For example the 5amps of 12volt current used to produce hydrogen has not been used efficiently, but that is not how the process works.

The hydrogen acts as a catalyst for the petrol to burn more efficiently. At present, a petrol engine only uses 20% of the petrol in the power stroke, that is to move the piston up and down, creating power. 80% of that petrol is used to absorb heat off the walls of the cylinder! Incredible isn’t it?

(Mr. George Vosper, P.Eng. June, 1998)“a Hydrogen Generating System (HGS) for trucks or cars has been on the market for some time.
Mounted on a vehicle, it feeds small amounts of hydrogen and oxygen into the engine's air intake. Its makers claim savings in fuel, reduced noxious and greenhouse gases and increased power. The auto industry is not devoid of hoaxes and as engineers are sceptics by training, it is no surprise that a few of them say the idea won't work. Such opinions, from engineers can't be dismissed without explaining why I think these Hydrogen Generating Systems do work and are not just another hoax.


The 2nd law of thermodynamics is a likely source of those doubts. Meaning ...the law -would lead you to believe that it will certainly take more power to produce this hydrogen than can be regained by burning it in the engine. i.e. the resulting energy balance should be negative. If the aim is to create hydrogen by electrolysis to be burned as a fuel, the concept is ridiculous. On the other hand, if hydrogen, shortens the burn time of the main fuel-air mix, putting more pressure on the piston through a longer effective power stroke, and in doing so takes more work out, then this system does make sense.

Does it work? Independent studies, at different universities, using various fuels, have shown that flame speeds increase when small amounts of hydrogen are added to air-fuel mixes.


“A study by the California
Institute of Technology, at its Jet Propulsion Lab Pasadena, in 1974 concluded:
The J.P.L. concept has unquestionably demonstrated that the addition of small quantities of
gaseous hydrogen to the primary gasoline significantly reduces CO and NOx exhaust emissions
while improving engine thermal efficiency.

The American Hydrogen Association Test Lab tested this technology and proved that: "Emissions test results indicate that a decrease of toxic emissions was realized." Again, zero emissions were observed on CO. Northern Alberta Institute of Technology. Vehicle subjected to dynamometer loading in controlled conditions showed drastic reduction of emissions and improved horsepower.” (Document file will be posted in forum, i cannot find where i got the document from so )
How the whole process fits in with a petrol engine is relatively easy although some troubleshooting is required during fitting.
You need to fit an EFIE enhancer, which its purpose is to ‘lean’ the fuel mixture, that is to reduce the amount of fuel used at any given point of acceleration. At the same time hydrogen is piped into a vacuum line and / or the air intake.

I've done this, i went on one drive with the hydrogen hooked up, the L's per Hundred meter on my dash (fairmont) showed that i was using 1-2liters less, which i was happy with. But i got home and forgot to unhook the cell from the battery, came outside an hour later and guess what was boiling.. I had to laugh, even after spening weeks researching it

How do you lean out your mixtures? Easy, put a 50k linear potentiometer onto the negative wire or your map sensor! Thats if you have an analogue signal, which ford falcons do not, the falcons have a digital signal, which requires an interceptor to modify the signal correctly.


Visit http://www.PESWIKI.org for all your alternative fuelling info, well its a good place to start !

The following is very well written advice from http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

Keep inmind it is an American site and so they refer to your lane as the right one, which is our left one.

All of the below is great advice:
1) Drive less

The best way to reduce fuel use is to drive less:

a) Live closer to work;
b) carpool;
c) bicycle;
d) walk;
e) take public transit



2) Park and ride (bicycle)

If part of your commute is not biker friendly, travel to a point that is and then bike the rest of the way.

The "park and ride" concept can also be applied to carpooling and mixed private/public transit travel.



3) Attend a driving clinic

Hybrid owners groups are popping up in cities around the world - and non-hybrid owners are often welcome to attend regular meetings. Fuel efficient driving techniques are commonly discussed, and clinics are sometimes offered by experienced members.



4) Clean junk from your trunk

The additional weight you carry in your vehicle doesn't ride for free. It takes energy to move it around. Removing unnecessary stuff from your vehicle saves fuel.



5) Let the most efficient driver drive

More than one licenced driver in the vehicle? Let the most efficient driver drive! And take the opportunity to learn from his/her wisdom.



6) Join a fuel economy forum

Join an outstanding forum to learn ways to increase your fuel economy by talking to others who share your enthusiasm and goals.



7) Remove unused roof racks

If your vehicle come with a roof rack and you don't use it, remove it. Same holds true for bike racks. Doing so will reduce aerodynamic drag, resulting in better fuel economy.



8) Check tire inflation regularly

Make sure that your tire pressures are, at minimum, set to manufacturer specifications. The higher the pressure, the less rolling resistance.

Remember that pressure is affected by ambient temperature. As temperature drops, so does your tire pressure, so keep track as the seasons change.



9) Track your fuel consumption

One of the first steps in improving efficiency is tracking fuel consumption.

Get in the habit of saving all your fuel receipts, recording distance travelled and fuel economy (MPG). Keep a small notebook to record trip type and new techniques employed to monitor your progress.

While the slower pace of tank-to-tank feedback isn't ideal for feedback on driving technique, recording and montoring your "big picture" progress is great motivation.

See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on tracking fuel consumption.



10) Use a fuel consumption display

Feedback is absolutely critical to improving driving habits.

Tank-to-tank monitoring of your consumption is not good enough. You need instrumentation that lets you reset the readout at will so you can track individual trips, or even portions of trips you regularly travel.

Options for vehicles without factory installed fuel economy computers include the commercial ScanGauge and PLX Kiwi. Open source choices include the MPGuino and SuperMID. Even the venerable vacuum gauge can help you improve efficiency when driving with load / target driving.

Get information about fuel consumption displays on the efficiency mods list.




Route selection and trip timing ...

11) Take the road less traveled

Generally speaking, if you have the option of choosing lightly traveled roads over busier ones, you give yourself more flexibility to employ a wider range of fuel saving techniques than if you are surrounded by other vehicles.

You may even find that a somewhat longer, lightly traveled route may result in lower overall amount of fuel used than the shorter, busier route.



12) Leave early and don't rush

The enemy of efficient driving is finding yourself in a rush. Leave for your destination a little early so you don't feel pressure to drive faster, brake later and otherwise fall back into bad habits.

Driving efficiently can be much more relaxing than the typical person's driving style, but you need to allow a bit of extra time.



13) Crosswind barrier

Headwinds aren't the only winds that increase fuel consumption - cross winds can have a large negative effect as well. In crosswind conditions, choosing a route with a barrier (trees or buildings) along the edge will save fuel compared to a road in the open.



14) The 'corridor effect'

All else being equal, traveling at a constant speed on a freeway within a flow of traffic (in the same direction) is more efficient than going the same speed in isolation. The reason is aerodynamic: a flow of traffic generates a localized wind current in the direction of travel. You will benefit from this artificial breeze.



15) Note your transition points

If you regularly travel the same roads, make a conscious effort to note (memorize) the points along the way where transitions occur that maximize efficiency.

EG. memorize where you can initiate a coast to just make it to the next stop sign. Or note at what speed you can crest a hill so you're traveling just fast enough for the next transition after the descent.



16) Time your gas station trips

Plan to refuel your car during off-peak times to avoid lines and excessive idling.



17) Avoid drive-thrus

Avoid drive thru windows. They lead to excessive idling.



18) Lane of least resistance

In multi-lane traffic, choose the "lane of least resistance" to avoid unnecessary and unpredictable braking/changes in speed.

EG. avoid lanes where buses are starting and stopping, or cars may be braking unpredictably to turn into driveways/parking lot entrances.



19) Avoid stops at bottom of hills

Avoid roads with stops at the bottom of hills (which force you to brake and waste the kinetic energy you just gained going downhill).



20) Take advantage of the wind

If possible, time trips to take advantage of strong tailwinds. Avoid setting out into strong headwinds/crosswinds.



21) Choose smooth road surfaces

Choose a route with a smooth, paved/concrete surface over gravel or rough, broken roads, all else being equal. Smoother surfaces offer reduced rolling resistance.



22) Avoid bad weather

Avoid driving in inclement weather if possible, as rain/snow/slush can dramatically increase rolling resistance.

The exception to this rule may be when high winds (tailwinds) can be used to your advantage.



23) Avoid peak traffic

If you have the option, avoid travel during peak traffic times. With the roads full of other drivers, you have fewer options for using driving techniques that the herd doesn't typically use or tolerate (e.g. reduced highway speeds, drawn out coasting up to stop signs, etc).



24) Drive when it's warm out

If you have the flexibility, time your trips to coincide with warm temperatures (ie. middle of the day) rather than cold (night/early morning).

Cold tires and drivetrain experience more rolling and mechanical resistance, and a cold engine is less efficient.



25) Pick up cargo "high", deliver "low"

If possible, shop at stores that are higher in elevation than your home. That way the extra weight you pick up (shopping items) is on board for the descending return leg where it's less of a penalty than it would be on an ascending return leg.




Sub/urban driving ...

26) Conserve momentum: stop sign 'stop and crawl'

When multiple vehicles ahead of you are progressing through a stop sign (or a right turn at a red light), this represents a mini 'stop and crawl' situation normally found in a bumper to bumper traffic jam.

Time your approach, to arrive at the stop sign as the last car ahead is departing.



27) Conserve momentum: take a shortcut

Sometimes options exist to go through corner parking lots, side streets, or alleyways to get around having to come to a stop at an intersection or behind another vehicle.

Of course the utmost care must be taken in parking lots as they present their own risks (pedestrians, vehicles reversing from parking spots, etc.)

Also, cutting through corner parking lots may be illegal in some areas.



28) Combining errands: do the longest leg first

When combining multiple trips into one journey, go to your f@rt destination first, and work your way back. This ensures the vehicle is warmed up as much as possible before subjecting it to multiple starts and stops.



29) Minimize idling when stopped

If you're going to be stopped for more than a few seconds, shift to neutral and shut off your engine. This is one of the main reasons hybrid vehicles get such good fuel economy in urban driving.

Caveat 1: this assumes your vehicle is in good tune and will re-start immediately, every time.

Caveat 2: if you're a defensive driver, you're habitually evaluating the risk of a rear crash when slowing and when stopped. Obviously you will want to leave your engine on in those circumstances (for a quick rear crash avoidance manoeuver).



30) Traffic light timing - stale 'green', no pedestrian signal

In the absense of any other indication about how stale the light is (eg. if there's no pedestrian signal or waiting cross traffic), assume that the green light ahead is about to change. Adjust your approach speed accordingly (IF traffic permits - ie. you don't hold anyone up) to avoid a full-on brake application should the light change.



31) Combine errands

Avoid very short trips. If you have multiple stops, plan them to do all on the same trip. Fuel economy is enhanced once the engine is warmed up, so a longer "chain" of errands will result in better fuel economy than multiple short ones, particularly in cold weather.



32) Traffic light timing - red lights with sensors

When approaching a red light, slow down early if there's a car in front of you that can trip the sensor so you may not have to come to a complete stop.

CleanMPG.com cleverly nicnamed this technique "rabbit timing"



33) Traffic light timing - 'stale' green

When approaching an intersection with a green light you can watch the pedestrian signal crossing light to help determine when it will turn yellow.




Highway driving ...

34) Lights on for safety; lights off for MPG

In certain driving environments / conditions, the use of daytime running lights (DRLs) or manually switching on headlights during the day increases safety.

Depending on the vehicle, power demands of the lighting system ranges from a few watts to well over 100 watts, all of which is ultimately powered by gasoline. In the US, where DRL implentation is voluntary, automakers have an exemption from CAFE testing which permits vehicles' fuel economy to be tested with the lights switched off.

Switching off DRLs where their safety contribution is minimal (eg. driving on a divided, controlled access highway) will save a small amount of fuel.



35) Find/adopt a 'blocker' for slower freeway speeds

Some people are uncomfortable driving at speeds less than the average flow of traffic on multi-lane freeways.

One solution is to find another vehicle going the speed you want to travel (large, conspicuous vehicles work particularly well) and drive either ahead of or behind it. (Note: this is not a suggestion to draft.)



36) Close the sunroof at higher speeds

Some sunroof styles are better than others. The worst offenders are the kind which tilt and slide to the outside, on top of the roof. When open, these "roof-top spoilers" can significantly increase aerodynamic drag.



37) Drafting: cross wind

In rare circumstances, it is possible to effectively "draft" a larger vehicle in cross wind conditions without following directly behind it. When cross wind conditions cause the low pressure area trailing the lead vehicle to extend into adjacent lanes, you can take advantage of reduced drag legally and with reduced risk.

Note: 1) this is not describing side-by-side driving, but postioning that is offset to the rear. 2) While visibility directly ahead is increased, a significant chunk of the driving picture may still be blocked depending on the size of the lead vehicle.



38) Drafting: close behind (not recommended!)

1) At highway speeds there's no doubt that driving close behind a large vehicle dramatically reduces fuel consumption. 2) It's a stupid thing to do.

It's not recommended for many reasons, not the least of which is that it's illegal in most areas, and doing so sacrifices the foundation of safe and defensive driving: your ability to see well ahead.



39) Windows up

Drive with windows up at higher speeds to minimize aerodynamic drag. Use flow-through ventilation if possible.



40) Reduce speed

Aerodynamic drag increases exponentially with speed, so reduce highway cruising speed as much as practical and safe.

Generally, a vehicle's most efficient speed is just after its highest gear has engaged.

See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on tracking fuel consumption.



41) Constant throttle position cruising

Once up to speed, pick a throttle position and hold it.

Advantages: more efficient than using the cruise control (which varies throttle position frequently and wastes fuel on hills).

Disadvantages: less efficient than "driving with load" (DWL) / "target driving" (where the throttle is eased on inclines).



42) Cruise control - when to use it

Set the cruise control if you're the type of driver whose speed creeps up higher and higher the longer you're on the road, or if you have difficulty holding a steady speed (it wanders up and down).

But realize that cruise control is just a band aid for those behaviours. Generally it's less efficient than constant throttle driving, and much less efficient than "driving with load" / "target driving".



43) Cruise control - when not to use it

Only use cruise control on flat roads. On hilly roads, cruise responds to changes in grade - by feeding in more throttle on the uphill and releasing on the descent - in the exact opposite way an efficient driver would.




Braking tips ...

44) The most efficient way to slow down

When you *have* to slow down, here's an approximate heirarchy of methods, from best to worst.

1) coasting in neutral, engine off (ie. roll to a stop);
2) coasting in neutral, engine idling;
3) regenerative coasting (hybrid vehicles)
4) regenerative braking (hybrid vehicles)
5) coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a certain engine RPM)
6) conventional friction braking (non-hybrid or hybrid)

Choosing the right method depends on traffic conditions (following vehicles) and how quickly you need to stop.



45) Conserve momentum: avoid stopping

Avoid coming to a complete stop whenever possible (and when safe and legal of course). It takes much less energy to accelerate a vehicle when it's already traveling just a few kilometers per hour than it does from a complete stop.



46) Hybrids: minimize regen braking

While regenerative braking in hybrid vehicles - capturing braking energy into the battery - is more efficient than braking with conventional friction brakes, it's still not as efficient as 'driving without brakes' (DWB).

So even if you drive a hybrid, you'll get better economy when you minimize use of the brake pedal.



47) "Drive without brakes" (DWB)

Minimize use of the brake pedal. Each time you press it, you're effectively converting gasoline into brake dust and heat.

Driving as if you have no brakes will cause you to do two things: 1) reduces 'excessive' acceleration, and, 2) extends the amount of time you spend coasting down to stops and turns.

Obviously you have to balance use of this technique against traffic conditions so as not to adversely affect other drivers.

See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on DWB.




Advanced techniques ...

48) Drive shoeless

Some hardcore hypermilers drive in sock or bare feet so they can modulate the accelerator to the finest degree (particularly important when "driving with load" / "target MPG driving" at cruise.

It shouldn't be that surprising. Race car drivers typically wear extremely thin-sole boots for similar reasons: for the highest level of tactile feedback from the vehicle, and to better finesse the pedals.



49) Conserve momentum: brake hard

It sounds like a contradiction, but there are rare times when braking hard can save fuel compared to coasting or light braking: it's a "damage control" technique when faced with an unpredictable/unanticipated stop or slow down ahead and not a lot of space.

An example: approaching a fresh red traffic light that had no other indicators to predict the change (no pedestrian signal and no cars waiting on the cross street). If you brake lightly/moderately, you will cover the entire distance to the intersection and have no option but coming to a full stop.

But if you brake quite hard initially, you can potentially scrub enough speed and buy enough time to coast the remaining distance to the intersection at a low speed. With judgment and some luck, you'll arrive at a fresh green light and avoid a full stop.

Obviously, rapid deceleration isn't a safe option if there is following traffic.



50) Make fuel economy a game/challenge

Competing against yourself (or others) to get the best possible fuel economy can do wonders for increasing motivation to learn more, refine your skills, and try harder.

Several web sites like EcoModder.com permit you to track and compare your fuel economy against other drivers, and some organize informal fuel economy challenges.

Hybrid festivals (e.g. hybridfest.com, greengrandprix.com) periodically run fuel efficiency rallies where you can hone your skills in competition with others in real time.



51) Use the 'racing line'

Knowing how to pick the "racing line" through a corner, when safe, can help to preserve momentum. Generally, the racing line is the path through a turn with the largest possible radius. It may permit a higher speed with more comfort (less body roll and g-forces), and less tire scrub.

Note this isn't advocating high speed turns, where the cost of increased tire wear may outstrip fuel savings. Even at low speeds, choosing the "racing line" has benefits.



52) Encourage a pass: the fake turn

Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past safely, with a minimum of interruption.

"Faking" a turn by signalling and moving into a turning lane (even though you intend to continue straight on) is one option.

Note: judgment and care is demanded so you don't mislead any driver into making an unwanted move as a result of your "miscommunication". You must be prepared to actually make the turn if your actions create a situation that would make it the safest option.



53) Encourage a pass: hug right

Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past, rather than force them to slow down.

One method of gaining the attention of the driver behind is to move your vehicle very obviously to the extreme right of the lane you're traveling in when it's safe for the following vehicle to pass.

Adding a turn signal to the move or the 4-way flashers may be even more effective.

Of course, pulling completely off the roadway onto the shoulder to let following traffic by is also worthwhile, if you have the option.



54) Hill tactic: don't waste potential energy

When facing a red traffic light, or some other predictable stop/start situation at the bottom of a hill, you're better off stopping near the top before you've accelerated to full speed. Wait, and time your release to make it through on green, and you avoid turning your potential energy into brake dust and heat. (Also known as 'smart braking'.)



55) Engine off coasting

Engine-off coasting (EOC) is one of the largest contributors to increased efficiency of hybrid vehicles, many of which automatically shut down the engine when the accelerator is released and the vehicle is coasting.

EOC can be accomplished in non-hybrids as well simply by shifting to neutral and switching the key from "Run" to "Acc" (being careful not to switch to "Off" and cause the steering to lock). As soon as the engine stops, return the key to the "Run" position or else you will be in danger of locking out your steering and crashing. Also be careful to not steer at all while the key is off to prevent a lock up.

This technique is best suited to cars with manual steering and manual transmissions. (Dramatically increased steering effort may be required in some cars with power assist. Also, most vehicles with automatic transmissions are not designed to travel with the engine shut off; the transmission may be damaged).

In non-hybrids, EOC is considered an advanced technique and should not be attempted until the skill developed away from traffic. In addition, coasting with the engine off is illegal in some areas.

The best way to EOC is with a kill switch that shuts off the engine without removing the key, thereby eliminating the dangers of locking the steering wheel.



56) Drive with load (DWL)

AKA "target driving". Put most simply, this technique is accomplished by choosing a "target" rate of fuel consumption and ensuring you don't fall below it on hills (or in very strong winds, or any conditions which cause load to vary for a given speed).

In other words, you will back off the accelerator and lose speed (possibly also downshifting) as you climb, and gain that speed back on the descent.

It's far more efficient than pressing the accelerator more and more to maintain speed on the way up a hill and then releasing it down the other side.

DWL is how an efficiency minded person can greatly outperform cruise control in hilly terrain.

Obviously the ability to use this technique without adversely affecting other drivers depends on the traffic situation.

As well, fuel economy instrumentation is required to DWL/target drive to the maximum extent, though it can also be done using a vacuum gauge, and to a much lesser extent by the seat of the pants.


//There is the first 56, goto http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php to read the remaining 44

Enjoy!
Matt (Gasman)

Last edited by -GAS-MAN- on Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:40 pm, edited 17 times in total.

And there we have 11 pages of random madness!

This was from a month ago when i was a uni student.

Another thing i found that was very interesting was this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydrogen-generator-fuel-cell-HHO-Watch-this-video-sale_W0QQitemZ250284097959QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250284097959&_trkparms=72%3A1018|39%3A1|66%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1308&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

An apparent comment from a buyer:
"well built,and puts out. keep building them! 2 that i bought ran a 4hp briggs!!!"

I'd pay $900 for a few cells that ran an engine without using petrochemicals, just out of principle

lol thats brilliant! good work!

if u do this infront of me, ur getting some high beams and the horn, pet hate is someone who cant accelerate with the traffic, if u cant afford to do this get the bus.

Yeah dont do this in amongst traffic, im from Castlemaine so there is never any congestion

My trip meter goes crazy in the lane when I accellerate so slowly. I think you will find that the idea is to accellerate briskly (not flat stick but quicker than what you have mentioned) and then activate the cruise control once you reach your desired speed. Maybe because my car is an auto the slippage when accelerating does add a fair bit to inefficiencies.

This deserves a STICKY!

You have to accelerate a lot slower than comfortable to be driving less efficient. Slower = more efficient.

Cruise control is not efficient, it can not predict whats coming up, it cannot time, it accelerates heavily and all over the place. Its convenient but is definitely not more economical

Totally depends on where your driving!! i know driving 600k's accross the darling downs from Roma to brisbane before and after installing cruise, i got 100k's further after using cruise...

Then your not driving correctly, sorry but cruise is definitely not the most economical way to drive.
You must have a heavy foot!

Agreed! The human brain is still more effective in predicting road changes and adjusting throttle levels than a computer.

I use cruise for convenience, but if there are any undulations on a road, I'm always more efficient without cruise.

Thanks Gas Man - a good read.

hi,are the mafs on ford v8s able to control the fuel,or is it also controled by the o2 sensors.i saw a nissan i6 running hho gas with the maf running a effie,and was very sensative to the adjustment,running 2 cells and petrol only.i gathered the gas it made from the cells was low,so just making enough to use as a cataylist,any recommended flow rates for engine sizes-litre capacity.i am still looking at different types and flow rates for the v8s-v6s-i6s and 4s,do you have any help? thanks

hint, google "water4gas torrent"

I downloaded the data months ago and ive read through it all about 20 times

Take it easy with the electrolyte else it will overheat, you need an interceptor or ms1 etc to modify the digital signal. Goodluck mate

I've got a few pics to upload and will do when i get back home in a weeks time..

What do i need to do to get this thing to become a sticky?

Blow it out your a***.

hmm, someone is full of happy juice