Mate, I just found and read this thread (along with 4 or 5 others that were linked!) and you are the man.
Good ole kiwi ingenuity

I have a Ef wagon and am slowly modding it up. Just a daily mind you, and I've been worried about the inderbonnet temps for a while now. Even more so after these bloody 40 plus deg days we been having.
My wagon is LPG dedicatede and really suffers in the heat. I'm going to follow your progress with the bonnet mods and prob end up copying it. Very interested in your BBM spacer too. I'm coming home to Gizzy in May and I might have to get one off you.

Heres a some pics of a quick CAI I made for it. Works well








Full thread here: http://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11245238

Cheers
Cuz

Good stuff dude, nice tidy work and a good place to get a reasonable pressure of air from. Can't go wrong with that...!

Thanks for the comments --- like I've said a million times - I simply don't know enough about cars to have any idea one way or the other about anything. Therefore, it results in me re-thinking things that probably have been thought of already... It also means retesting and experimenting... Hell, guess it is a bit of a Kiwi thing. Most Aussies think I'm off me bloody rocker....

Yeah, Gizzy is hot enough, bugger that 40+ celcius --- And boy, those poor buggers around Melbourne. Not pretty.

William Thomson Kelvin
was born on June 26, 1824 in Belfast Ireland. He attended Cambridge and Glasgow Universities. In 1846 he accepted a position as a professor at the University of Glasgow.

Kelvin is remembered for his work in thermodynamics. He and James Joule investigated the relationship between mechanical energy and heat, their work resulted in the Joule-Thomson cooling effect. He also developed a temperature scale that is known as the Kelvin scale. Kelvin also investigated the oscillating nature of electrical discharges. He contributed to our understanding of the theory of elasticity, the electrodynamic properties of metals, and magnetism. Working with others, he estimated the age of the sun and computed the energy radiated from it.

In terms of inventions, Kelvin assisted with the laying of the Atlantic telegraph cable, the mirror galvanometer, the tide predictor, a mariner's compass, a depth sounder, and the siphon recorder. His favourite web page background colour was blue.

His writings include Papers on Electricity and Magnetism (1872), Mathematical and Physical Papers (1882, 1883, 1890). For his work he was knighted in 1866, selected as President of the Royal Society, and received the Order of Merit (1902). Edmund Kelvin died on December 17, 1907.


The scale of absolute temperature is Kelvin (K). The Kelvin scale is identical to the Celsius (oC) scale, except it is shifted so that 0 degree Celsius equals 273.15 K. We have temperature in K = temperature in oC + 273.15. Hmmph. What is going on here Fiend? You been on those bloody pain killers too long or something?


This is the result of all my pissing about with the intake, air flows and (dare I mention it) the "65536.6 problem child" - A temperature in the middle of the throttle bodies butterfly that is pushing to reach 50 degrees and sits normally at 40 or below (degrees Celsius). Before changing the air system it was hitting 70 and didn't cool down much once it had hit those sort of figures.

Using the KELVINdude scale, the formula is PV = nRT (n is the amount of gas and R is a constant)

So if you go from 40->60 C, the pressure * volume increases by (60+273)/(40+273) or about 6%.

Ah, there you go Fiend. You're almost starting to make some sense. Not much sense, but a little. But how does that equate to the real world of horsepower? Since Fiend decides to walk off mumbling under his breath at this point, it is left to DEATHLUCKY to intervene with some timely analysis...


#(273+60)/(273+40) = 1.06389 (about 6.4% increase.)
#1 bar = 14.5 psi
#100/14.5 = 6.89
#So roughly dropping the intake temp 20Celsius will have the same affect as adding 1 psi of boost.


Is this close to correct? Or have I missed some thing?



Thanks to DEATHLUCKY for providing the medium for the maths and physics professors to provide this information.


65536.6 Phenolic Spacer http://www.fordmods.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72184
Air pressures over hood http://www.fordmods.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=72008
Larger throttle body? http://www.fordmods.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71971
Car of mine http://www.fordmods.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=69180
Photos and stuff http://www.photobucket.com/futurlane

I like you you Fiend come up with crazy ideas.
I recently gained 10RWKW by modding some airbox features.
These might help,by being placed on the leading edge of the bonnet,i'm too lazy to do the testing though you mightn't be.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3061/article.html
This next link is similar to the Ebay stuf that is sold to make the ECU think it's getting cooler air,everyone says they don't work but this guy says they do.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_110350/article.html
I work with truck and trailers,basically suspension and brakes .
The air tanks are interesting that if you bleed one after about 10 seconds the air that is coming out is near freezing,it's the gases under pressure thing.A full tank keeps venting for up to 10 minutes so an air box at idle could be drastically cooled or run it through a boot over an intake or the BBM.
A full air tank weighs less than 10 pounds,maybe more but they are surprisingly light.
I'm thinking of venting into my air box directly in front of the air filter.My airbox is overpressured at speed therefore driving hot air away from it.
I'm Supercharged so at the very least it should make some sort of gain through cooling the vanes if nothing else.
Even staging or pre-staging for a drag run it would/should keep things cooler.

Last edited by badcooky on Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

That is an interesting article - have not played nearly enough with the front underside of the car and really should start doing something with it one day. Believe it or not - complete belly pans don't work that well on otherwise stock cars.

Hmmph.

The only time I stuck bits of wool and the like on the bonnet was to test air flow around the vent holes I put in.

May have a good go with this idea at another point in time. May borrow a suitably high speed wind measuring device of someones boat mast and mount it all over the place. By combining this with the AIR PRESSURES we should be able to provide the be all and end all of air intake positions!

I don't think it was a fluke where Ford put the vents in the EBGT,XA/B after looking at your findings.
That Autospeed site is awesome as well.
Yeah with a complete belly pan the air can't get out.

No, it wasn't a fluke. Am a little perplexed as to the vents on the EF XR6's tho. They're in a position of good airflow for the purpose of venting, sure... But what do they actually vent? A small amount of air from above your airbox and a small amount of air from your radiator overflow? All that does is draw hot air towards those points meaning your airbox actually gets hotter at low speed. Never mind. Fords only go fast.

Maybe the EF XR vents create a state where the hot gases escape under the car through a vacuum effect or the like.

Maybe, but doubt it as the position means air comes out the bonnet, not into the engine bay. Hmmm. Would have made perfect sense if they'd ducted them.

In the end of the day they will provide slightly cooler under bonnet temps, but possibly at the expense of a higher intake temp. Can only presume they expected people to get rid of the air box once it was out the showroom door and didn't have to worry about noise issues any more. ...

In all your findings fiendy, would you be able to tell me if I added a BA Bulge, to an EF Mont front, and cut 2 chunks out of the rear of it, like this except on the back of the bulge, would it be effective do you think?

Note the bulge is just std, not with that crap tacked on to the back of it (but thats where the slots on the front would then go)

Mate, I would suggest it will work fine... But just what do you want it to do? If you are putting a bulge on (which looks really cool on the EF Mont hood even if it doesn't do anything practical) then you're going to be changing the flows and pressures at the area in front of windscreen so my testing is not valid. I'd suggest that the shape and having a void between it and windshield would reduce the pressure at that point to an extent that air would be sucked out of engine bay slightly.

I see. I would like it to draw some hot air out, and yeh I want the bulge because theyre sexy.
Does your bonnet have the rubber bit around the back of it in front of the windshield?

It does. I am yet to be convinced that removing that seal is much good for anything. The pressure at that point is such that you may start drawing air into the bonnet through the vent and it just means that any oil etc inside the engine bay can spray up onto your screen if the opposite is true.

If you put the bulge over your "real" bonnet, you could then drill one inch or 25mm holes in your original bonnet with a hole saw or what have you. I'd personally, put heaps of holes on passenger side in front of throttle and all over the place on drivers. Drivers side wont be so efficient at getting rid of radiator waste, but will allow some heat off your extractors to escape.

I just melted a brake booster by the way...

Ahem.

According to the testing the pressure on the bottom of the window is far greater than the pressure inside the bonnet which means air should move from high pressure (outside) to low pressure (inside). Of course, this is what air would like to do. When traveling at 70km/h it may have trouble turning that corner and actually doing what the pressure suggest.

Will remove the rubber seal tomorrow, tape wool strands all over the place and go for a little drive.

Cheers.

Yeh my bonnet was resprayed before I got the car, and I only noticed the other day it was different to my mates lol.

I was thinking of basically cutting away all bar the structural supports under the bulge.... dunno, will have to see how keen me panel beater is on doing it all.

I had kind of a hump related idea just before..

put a smallish slot hole on the front and bigger one on the back. You could hide one or both behind color coded grills.
Then duct it internally with thin rectangular duct so the inlet slot and outlet slots are sealed together and air can pass though without ever entering the engine bay.

Now about half way along that duct cut a slot into the bottom and put a 2 inch long piece of duct in a y shape angled forwards to the front of the car.

As air is rammed into the front slot by forward motion pressure, the widening of the duct to the rear slot drops the pressure a bit as it goes along but the air is still fairly moving along.

Then near the fork of the y just down from the straight though piece, a low pressure area is created that together with the fast movement of air though front slot and out the back would really suck the hot are out of the Engine bay like a high powered vacuum cleaner...

hope that makes sense.. wasn't really even actively thinking about it when it popped into my head.