How to swap your old EA – ED log style MPEFI manifold with an EF – EL Broad Band Manifold.


A popular conversion into early E series Falcons, which gives better torque, power and fuel economy than the stock log style manifold as originally fitted. The AU manifolds should go in the same way as the EF – EL, however the EF & AU computers are not compatible as the EA – ED and EL have a distributor style of ignition where the AU and EF use coil packs.


Removal of BBM from EF-EL Automatic.

1. Disconnect negative terminal from battery (if fitted).
2. Drain Radiator of fluid into pan.
3. Remove Air Box, piping and bend, disconnect at throttle body.
4. Disconnect Auto transmission loom extension plug towards rear of manifold and tuck out the way.
5. Remove washer bottle.
6. Remove support bracket at front of manifold.
7. Remove bolts from thermostat housing into head, pull thermostat clear without bending anything.
8. Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cable (if fitted).
9. Remove spark plug leads.
10. Remove Manifold to head bolts, there are 12 of these, the lower ones can be reached reasonably easy with a long swivel head extension and a 10mm 3/8 socket.
11. Gently pull manifold towards front of car and remove the top bolt for the rear manifold support bracket. This should make it easier to move manifold to reach other components.
12. Undo two threaded connectors to fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator, DO NOT CUT. Be careful not to get fuel in eyes as it may be under pressure.
13. Carefully mark then disconnect electrical connectors from front earth to block, distributor plug, oil pressure switch, etc. Also mark then disconnect vacuum lines at rear of manifold. Be careful not to mess these up.
14. Lift passenger side front of car off ground enough to slide in underneath, do not forget to use stands.
15. Disconnect electrical plugs to transmission, cut any cable ties holding them tight, lower car, then pull auto transmission loom up into engine bay.
16. You should be able to then remove manifold from car.
17. Unplug loom from injectors and any other plug ie TPS etc and carefully remove loom from manifold. You will be installing the loom from your EA – ED in its place.




You will also need:

1 BBM solenoid which is located behind washer bottle at passenger rear section of engine bay
2 Throttle pedal, cable and all associated bits and pieces.
3 EL Automatic or Manual ECU depending on which trans your car uses.
4 EF – EL Rocker cover and gasket to mount throttle pedal and Cruise control (if fitted) (cruise control is covered in another section of tech documents. I will endeavour to produce a step by step guide to convert EB-ED cruise to suit EF-EL manifold at a later date).
5 Remove fuel hoses at bottom end of hose down low on firewall on passenger side.
6 Vacuum tree from EL and all pipes.
7 EL engine wiring loom.


To remove log manifold from EA – ED MPEFI.

1. Disconnect bottom radiator hose and drain coolant to suitable container, don’t tell anyone you actually dropped it on the ground.
2. Disconnect negative terminal on battery, remove battery box cooler vent pipe.
3. Remove air snorkel, air box and pipe to log manifold.
4. Remove top water hose.
5. Remove washer bottle. Tuck hose out the way.
6. Carefully disconnect fuel lines, mark which one is feed and which is return.
7. Disconnect the Spark plug wires, number them as you go. Leave them attached to the Cap.
8. Disconnect electrical connectors to thermostat housing, as well as earth lead which connects to block nearby.
9. Disconnect electrical connections to manifold, TPI etc, fuel injectors, main harness plugs.
10. Disconnect heater hose at pipe which sticks out at between Manifold runners 4 & 5 (from memory).
11. Remove bolts from thermostat housing to head, and gently move housing out of the way.
12. Remove 12 bolts holding manifold to head and one pesky bolt holding manifold to bracket underneath manifold. (How many people have missed this one and wondered why the manifold wont come out?)
13. Gently pry manifold away from head, lift the front of manifold up, and disconnect any other electrical connectors and hoses. Try to mark what they come off of when you are doing this.





To install BBM to your engine.

1 First up, make sure that your mating surfaces are nice and shiny and clean, preferably degreased and hit with some carby cleaner to take away any residues. Also, clean the surfaces for the thermostat housing and make sure you have a new gasket ready to go, this counts for the manifold as well. I used the 2 piece EL manifold gasket as it is by far easier to install
2 Remove the wiring harness from the log manifold and pass it through between runner 5 & 6 from underneath making sure the connectors for injector 1 go in first. Gently coax it up between the fuel rail and the manifold until the T ‘junction’ of the loom is sitting nicely in the gap between the runners and the Main plugs are poking out in the right spot. Here you can plug in your injectors and other sensors.
3 You will need to extend the wires for the Idle Speed Controller (stepper motor) as they are at the far end of the loom. You will need to cut as long a section of the EL plug and wire as possible. To do this you will need to un-wrap the tape off the EL loom about 15 inches. Cut as long a piece as possible. This plug is different to the EA-ED plug so make sure you use the EL plug. The wires are the same colour from memory, however, when you turn the key later have someone listen for the motor to work, if it doesn’t it’s a safe bet you got the wires back to front. You will also need to lengthen the wires to the Intake Air Temp Sensor which is the round white one hiding under the Throttle Body. The plugs should be the same as the EA – ED one so lengthen you’re the wire by about 8 – 10 inches and it should be fine.
4 If you are not going to change to a serpentine drive belt for the accessories at the front of the motor, then you should not have to replace the metal pipe coming from the thermostat housing as the air conditioner compressor used in the EF – EL is mounted higher on the side of the motor necessitating changing the pipe. Bolt the thermostat housing to the head, don’t use the gasket at this time as we are dummying it up for a second. After you have had your weetbix or your tin of spinach, remove the retainer bolt and clip holding the pipe tight to the thermostat housing. Gently but firmly apply pressure to the pipe so that it rotates down towards the AC Compressor. You need a fairly steep angle for the pipe to clear the manifold when it is installed, however you cannot be too rough with the pipe as it may leak or break. Install the manifold temporarily onto the engine to make sure you have clearance. I could not get more than about 2 mm between the pipe and the manifold so I cut some old radiator hose to go between the two to stop rubbing.
5 When you have your gap set ok between the manifold and crossover pipe, you can remove the thermostat housing from the head and the manifold as well.
6 With the manifold in place, connect your fuel lines to the fuel rail and return. You will need either some hoses made for you with the proper ends to attach to the EL fittings, or use a brass barb fitting on both lines to attach the EL fittings with EFI rated hose clamps which is what I did.
7 Find your manifold gaskets and bolts and install the manifold to the head. Do the bolts up to proper torque, I did mine up till they were firm then ¼ turn more. You should not need any sort of silicon to seal the joint, too much silicone and it may be squeezed out of the joint and foil an injector or spray path for the fuel.
8 Install the thermostat housing using a new gasket and silicone. Don’t forget the engine lift hook.
9 Jack the car up at the front, put stands under and crawl underneath with a torch and hook up the wires for the Oil Pressure Sensor, Ignition Coil etc. Make sure you follow the markings you put on your wires.
10 Back in the engine bay, check all hoses and electrical connectors to make sure they all have a home. Refit the heater hose that was poking out the side towards the front wheel well that you removed when you pulled the log manifold out.
11 Plug the main connectors up of which there are 3.
12 Remove the rocker cover. Clean the surface of the head where the gasket sits.
13 Install your EF – EL gasket and rocker cover.
14 Remove the throttle pedal and throttle cable and install the EF-EL one in its place. This is because the original cable is too long, and the ratio of the pedal to the throttle body is different. They will work together however the pedal will sit too high and you will have about 3 feet too much cable.
15 Attach throttle cable to throttle body and attach to rocker cover as well.
16 Remove kick panel in passenger side footwell, remove retainer screw holding strap and earth wire for the ECU and undo centre bolt holding plug to the computer. Install the correct computer from the donor car assuming that the transmission types are the same ie automatic donor car to automatic recipient car. EA and EB1 will need electrical wizardry done to them to get the Smartlock to bypass.
17 Re install radiator hoses and fill header tank with coolant.
18 BBM solenoid needs to be hooked to vacuum tree as it was removed from the donor vehicle, except the vac hose that went into the cabin can be hooked to the vacuum tree on the manifold via a tee piece if necessary as that is the feed for the solenoid. You will need to extend the 2 wires for the solenoid to go into the cabin to the ECU. The red wire goes to 12v ignition or pin57 on the ECU and the green wire goes to pin 15 on the EL ECU.
19 Connect Vacuum hose from plug at middle of manifold adjacent to the wheel well to the MAP Sensor using hose taken from donor car.
20 Re install spark plug leads, make sure they are still attached at the cap as well.
21 Re-attach Earth lead to battery. Have someone turn the key to on and check that the Idle Speed Controller is making a noise.
22 Make sure all the tools etc are out of the engine bay, and that all bolts, screws, fittings, and clamps are tight.
23 Start the car, it may take a few turns to get it to go. At this point mine decided it wanted to flood the motor…. Use some throttle if it helps.
24 Listen to your baby purr.


If your car is fitted with a trip computer, it will give excessive readings on the Avg Speed, Instant Fuel Use and Avg Fuel Use. You will need to cut the wire on pin 34 on the ECU and splice the loom end (wire from trip comp) into pin 58 pwm injector pulse...this will fix the trip computer.
Note that EA to EB series 1 will not run with the EL computer unless you have the Smartlock bypass fix as discussed in the forums.
Also, Neither I or fordmods.com take any responsibility for any errors, omissions or other in writing this document. It is written as general information only and the end user accepts ALL liability when following these instructions. If I have missed something, let me know.

Special thanks in writing this goes to TROYMAN, and anyone else who helped in compiling the information to write this.

Last edited by dazza027 on Sat Sep 25, 2010 7:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

if any1 needs the smartlock bypass done give brian a call at albury tafe automotive section well done on the flow chart it is well done and correct

If youre going to do this mod, I strongly recommend getting rid of the old clutch fan and throw it as farrrr farrr away from the car as you can, and drop in a set of EF EL AU fans. You liberate a heap of grunt from pissing that old noisey POS off, and life is quieter into the bargain. That was tonights job on my list, and in doing so, I found that my water pump is shagged. Before I removed the fan when you gave the car some willy it had nasty engine vibration. Got rid of the clutch fan and now its a nasty bearing dying noise coming from the water pump and no vibration. Does anyone here know how much an EB 4.0l water pump is?

about 60 70 bucks for gmb or silverline

2 things...
With this step...

2 Remove the wiring harness from the log manifold and pass it through between runner 5 & 6 from underneath making sure the connectors for injector 1 go in first. Gently coax it up between the fuel rail and the manifold until the T ‘junction’ of the loom is sitting nicely in the gap between the runners and the Main plugs are poking out in the right spot. Here you can plug in your injectors and other sensors.

Do you mean to remove the loom from the log, and passing it up through runner 5&6 on the BBM? (basically swap looms)?

An second.

Hahaha! +1 on bein fooled by the support bracket nut underneath (WTF??it moves a inch and stops????)

Yeah you're right, that is what I meant. Swap the looms over from the Log to the BBM.
And yeah, that bracket didnt catch me out that time because I remembered to undo the bastard after previous WTF encounters... Those sneaky Ford designers...

Cool, no worries. Thanks for that.

I removed that support fom the block so it's not an issue anymore.

Somtimes I think ford sat around in a designing panel and the conversation went like this...

Employee: hi director, these are the 4 designs we have for this.

Director: and which one will be the most annoying and difficult to remove?

the support bracket you speak of is there to hold the manifold in place, so if or when the head needs to be removed the manifold can stay in the engine bay..

Yes it would be too, that makes sense.

Also for a bit of strength to maybe?
Like I said about design though, Ive seen a few head jobs done and all removed the log from the car, it would be rather cramped with the extractors and manifold still there.

Coming to think of it, I pulled a head off a car as a spare, and I don't recall undoing that bracket on that one too, it wasn't there at all.

Heads been off before then. At least the good old 'special tool #...' isnt as crucial to have anymore. That was one thing that used to fill me with dread when working on old Pommy stuff... you would get jems like 'using special tool #267, carefully insert into slot blah blah and twist anti clockwise until the spring audibly clicks into position...' in a workshop manual and you just knew you were in for a long day...

Nah, when I first got it I took off the intake to remove the heater hoses and take the bypass pipe off, took the bracket off at the same time.

Nah, when I first got it I took off the intake to remove the heater hoses and take the bypass pipe off, took the bracket off at the same time.

noticed today that the 3.9 multipoint has a different tps and plug to the 4.0l(non broardbrand ofcours), never noticed that before and also never noticed there was a difference beetwen the s-pack looms and the standard (and xr ofcourse) for the taco wire picked all of this up today while fitting the late el angineblock with the 94ab head to a eb1 origionally 3.9 multi-point and had to cut away part of the engine block for the alternator bracket to fit and had to run the ed timingcover for the idler and tensioner pulleys but the late el block which usually runs the 2 bolt mains can thake the au main caps (reccomended) or have the late el ones drilled to take the bolts from the sump and only the late elcaps will take th drill and you could bolt the sump and head on along with the bbm for a cost affective step by step conversion to a au engine even though the engine number doesnt start with WR

That info will come I handy as mine is 3.9 too.
I'd assume that this would be only for the 3.9's too as they dropped that motor from EBII on.
Maybe somthing to do with the addition of smart lock?

ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN PICK UP A EL MANUAL ECU??

i dont understand why you would have to cut away at the block to fit the alternator or use an ed timing cover???

the blocks are the same casting fron the ea 3.2,3.9ltr up to the 4.0l el..
the timing cover is the same part no from ea to ed..
ive done serpentine and bbm conversion to series1 ea's and no modifications were made..

p.s a few full stops in your sentences might help with it making sense..