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stomper |
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I was thinking because i always have trouble finding the forum on building your own shift kit i would write a doco on it..
Would anyone mind/get f**k off if i did. If not ill write it up and submit to Happy. Cheers Ben
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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au man |
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I think that there is one on the aufalcon.com site. Got some good stuff there.
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stomper |
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There is a thread here...Its just i was thinking about making it a proper doco.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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rushed |
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aufalcon has one, but we dont,
i say make the doco, but include the diagrams from the ~20page thread on it we have. |
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au man |
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Well if your keen, are you going to make a doco on how to build one and instal it? Or just how to build it?
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fiftyone |
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do the making and installation.
you might want to add the adjustable one too. (like i just made) swaping the 5 ohm for the big a** pot
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stomper |
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Ok ill go buy the parts for it. Ill also do an installation doco for it.
I hear we can use the round loom under the bonnet but IMO this is harder because we have to get both the looms to go in and we have to run cable through the firewall. So ill do an install for the normal and the adjustable. Ill also make it up an installaton doco.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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fiftyone |
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cool. if you need any help give me a buzz. i'd be more then willing to lend a hand
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peyote |
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would be nice if it had the plug & play info aswell
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stomper |
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{USERNAME} wrote: would be nice if it had the plug & play info aswell
Yeah i was thinking about plug and play but i think you have to beable to get ahold of the looms located on the passenger side of the car. We probably could get ahold of heaps from wreckers but it will probably be a bit complicated. With this idea if you want to have a on/off switch or a variable resistor then you will have to run it into the firewall which is a pain in the a** IMO. Ill give it a start today. Ill also doit to my car so that everything can be sorted out properly.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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stomper |
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Ok the next post is what i have so far.
I am yet to build the kit. i am also going to include the data and wiring diagram for the adjustable shiftkit.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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stomper |
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Shift Kits for Ford EF i6
Parts you will need: 1 x 10 watt 18ohm resistor 1 x 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor A SPDT or DPDT switch (these are on/on switches, rather then on/off) A small project box to put it in Some wire (capable of 5amp loading) Jaycar parts code: 10 watt 18ohm resistor - 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor – Switch – Project box – Wire – All these parts can be found at any Jaycar or d**k for around $10 Because we are dealing with car electronics remember to remove the battery terminals. We are going to number each of the wires as we solder then. That way it makes it easier later on. Next we are going to need 6 bits or wire. 3 15cm long and 3 80cm long. First solder a short wire from one end of the 18 ohm resistor (wire Number 1). Solder a long wire to the other end of the 18 ohm resistor (wire Number 4). Solder a long and a short wire to the 5.6 ohm resistor (Short wire number 2, Long wire number 5). Solder a short wire (Wire number 3) to the other side of the 5.6omh resistor. Solder a long wire (wire number 6) to the 5.6 ohm resistor on the same side as Wire number 3. Next the switch needs to be wired up. The switch has three poles. This will be used to turn on and off the shift kit. Solder wire 6 to an end pole of the switch. Solder wire 5 to the middle pole of the switch. Solder wire 4 to the last, and so far unused pole of the switch. So basically wiring up the switch you solder wire 5 to the middle pole and 4 and 6 to the end poles. It doesn’t matter which side they are soldered. We have to then wire up the ECU pins. REMEMBER this is for the EF i6. Pin outs for EL’s and V8’s are different. Splice wire one in to pin 71. Cut pin 81. - On the ECU side join wire 2. - On the other side join wire 3. We have to then put the two resistors in the project box. It is best to hide the project box up near the glove box out of site. Run the wires to the dash of the car. You can mount the switch wherever you want. A few suggestions for this is on the auto shifter surround, in front of the drinks holder if you don’t have power windows or only front power windows. Other suggestions include under the petrol cap release button. Finally re-connect the battery. Start the car and off you go. Document was written by Stomper Friday, 15th September. Data from ‘neds’.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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stomper |
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Jaycar parts code:
10 watt 18ohm resistor - CAT. NO. RR3355 10 watt 5.6ohm resistor – CAT. NO. RR3349 Switch – CAT. NO. ST0336 Project box – CAT. NO. HB6065 Wire – CAT. NO. WH3080
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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peyote |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: would be nice if it had the plug & play info aswell Yeah i was thinking about plug and play but i think you have to beable to get ahold of the looms located on the passenger side of the car. We probably could get ahold of heaps from wreckers but it will probably be a bit complicated. With this idea if you want to have a on/off switch or a variable resistor then you will have to run it into the firewall which is a pain in the a** IMO. Ill give it a start today. Ill also doit to my car so that everything can be sorted out properly. no on/off switch just have it so its adjusted via the pot,when the pots turned down its normal shift mode you would only need to run 2 wires for the pot threw the firewall and have the wires connect near the parts box |
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rushed |
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this is all i made mine from
and the post that stomper reposted. |
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