Keep in mind my answers are for an EF Auto with 3.9 Mini Spool. 113rwkw 500&sometingft.pd tourque

[quote="66 coupe"]Changing diff ratio's or wheel sizes will not alter the shift points. The ecu will always change gears in relation to whats programmed into it (ie max road speed per gear, and max/min kickdown roadspeed)

Agreed!

The factory setup, the trans will shift before the engine hits the limiter, and with enough time to allow the trans to shift, without hitting the limiter.
Not Always... but the shift into second ca be fun

Theres really no point in holding it to the limiter either - unless you have a real big cam you wont be making any power up there, and you will miss the torque peak in the next gear anyway.
RPD R6?? is what it came with.

Hitting the limiter and backing off - chances are it will jump up two gears instead of one, when you back off, engine load is decreased and the ecu may select 3rd instead of 2nd
Very True

As stated, changing the speedo drive gear will move the shift points, and is not an ideal solution. This is why we have the speedo correctors, and the relavent wiring mods so the ecu will operate as normal.
Cant see you sig, msg me

If you want every last rpm out of it, then either shift manually or change to a 5sp..
When $$ permit a T5 is waitin.

why..... look at the pretty little cartoon diagram i made.

it says exactly the same thing

I did look at your cartoon, but in light of what you say i will look at it again. But i grasp the concept, and can surely work out the details if/when i fit a corrector.

basically gearbox sends a signal to the speedo cluster via the "speedo input wire". Intercept and alter this signal with a Speedo Corrector to show correct speed on the cluster.

Problem is, the modified signal then comes out of the cluster to the ECU via the "speedo output" wire, and mucks up shift points.

So you fix this by cutting the "speedo output" wire coming from the speedo cluster, and run the loom side of the cut "speedo output" wire and tap it into the "speedo input" wire before the speedo corrector has intercepted the signal. This is so the ECU sees the original "unaltered" signal that comes from the gearbox and shift points remain the same.

Hope this helps, as i know it can be confusing, especially since ive labelled the speedo input & output wires on the speedo corrector and didnt do the same for the cluster wires

I also run a 3.9 spool in an auto V8 fairmont, and the way i fixed mine was to

1 Correct the speedo mechanically, by using an XD Sender in the box and a green gear. This made the speedo accurate.
then
2 intercept the signal before it reaches the ECU and use the speedo corrector. The goosd thing about the corrector is that it is fully adjustable from 1% to 100%, so i can alter the shift points by merely turning the trim pots. I scored mine from shiftkits.com. You could make the one in the Jaycar catologue but i chose to get mine from shift kist as it included a wiring diagram that showed where and which wires to cut
Brett

Okay, gotcha now FordFairmont.


[Thinking about my efforts to create more revviness, i figure if you fitted a speedo drive gear with more teeth, it would spin slower, and therefore the car would think it is going slower, and therefore it would change up later, and change down sooner.

As long as you don't create the rev limiter problem and/or aren't willing to overtake in normal mode, assuming normal mode has lower change points at full throttle(?).

I guess this is a hijack because the thread starter and most people don't need to think about this mod, sorry to do this.]

Thats interesting, it might suit me better to do it this way.

If someone wasn't careful with this setup they could end up in dangerous overtaking scenarios though.

Not a hijack, I have similar setup to TerroristGHIA (I6-V8 what a few cylinders between friends)
But, he did hit the nail on the head!!

Now I know where the problem lies, how to fix it and where to get the parts.

Thanks to everyone's input. I hope this helps others in similar situations.

Wiring diagram from Gregorys Manual for ECU is spot on, as soon as I have a scanner up and running I will post it, and any other anyone requests. I think I will take the jaycar option, I have a bit of electronic exp.

It's a bit like that atm. 90-110ks in 4th then a quick boot then the auto wants to burst back to 2nd at 5200rpm, add shift kit and the change into 3rd can be hairy.

Im doing the speedo job on the au atm and this gives me something to think about. my current aproach was to correct the signal to the dash, and then get a flash tune to alter the shift points. if you use the 2 corrector method you will hit the speed limiter early: ie, for me at 135km/h, when the car thinks its doing 180 (with 3.89 gears). decorrecting it gives you back your shift points, but stuffs up your speed limiter.

anyone got any pictures of this being installed that they want to share?

the 2nd diagram i posted (using single corrector), being a "theory" to me at the time, then seeing what 66coupe posted confirms it to be the correct way to do it.

im converting back to auto tommorow, and am running 3.7's and a speedo corrector. Ive wired it up as mentioned, so will see how it goes !!

..double post

yep shift points are fine, and speedo is correct !!!

Just to note:: by using One speedo corrector and using the method fordfairmont illustrated above, you save yourself $50 for the 2nd corrector and install time, But
you do lose Cruise Control.. The dash microcomputer must do something to the signal for CC and by cutting the dash output, CC will not work at all.

I found this method still the best, save money and time, speed is correct, my speed limit is now 150 but chip will fix this, and I never used to use CC anyway, so no loss there.

just a heads up.. take it easy.