I recently upgraded my front brakes and ended up with DBA slotted rotors and EBC green-stuff pads...also ggot some DBA rear slotted rotors and EBCs for the rears as well - mainly for cosmetics and the fact the rears had not been changed since I had the car etc.

Did the front wheel bearings, punched in the new grease hub seals and began reassembling the front end - used a 'G' clamp to push the front caliper brake pistons back into the caliper housing so that the new meaty brake pads would go over the new meaty rotors etc. Once all was put back, repeated for the other side.

Anyway, once all was done - decided to bleed the brakes...bled the rear passenger (furtherest away from the master cyl etc), then the rear driver, front passenger and finally front driver. Used PBR DOT4 brake fluid.

Took the car for a drive and noticed the long brake pedal...thought this was odd due to the new meaty brake parts that were fitted...and the bleed was done as per spec (from what I could tell). Anyway, thought this was odd - so took it to a brake place where they re-bled the brakes - obviously letting them know about the long brake pedal etc...got no real answers. When they were done with it, the pedal wasn't as long, but was still not right.

Reason I knew it wasn't right was because I had the same setup on my old EF - anyway, I am curious to anyone else's thoughts on something like this - hard to diagnose without seeing it etc...but thought there might be something that has been overlooked.

Some facts to assist in any diagnosis :

* Brake pedal does bite but requires 1/2 to 3/4 brake pedal travel opposed to the usual 1/4 to 1/3 brake pedal travel.
* Pumping the brake pedal does not make any difference to pedal length, so I presume there is no problem with the brake bleed(s).
* Brake pedal feels constantly 'spongy'

Any help appreciated!

might be the brake booster but not sure.

I wouldn't think booster would make much difference to pedal travel...presuming pedal feel was good prior to the upgrade of course ?

What about master cylinder...has anyone had any issues with them failing ? I am in the same boat with my brakes - going to see if an AU2 metal booster will fit...I am REALLY hoping it does

my booster was working well then i turn the car off n didnt touch it for 3 to 4 hours n the booster went.. but not sure though... its just an idea

i put dba slotted on my car recently and bendix ultimate. i forgot the clean the oil off the discs, so the brakes felt quite crap for a bit, spongy and all. i got told to do a high speed stop to burn the oil off them and it worked...

what condition were the bleed nipples in? I had the same problem in my EF recently after fitting braided lines. It was bled over and over again but still s**t pedal feel. Turned out one of the bleeders were leaking. Worth a look

tim

ALSO after bleeding the system REMOVE the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder, give the brakes a few hard pumps and replace the switch. this resets the proportioning valve and returns the pedal to correct height and feel.

bleed the brakes all round if that doesn't help check your brake lines chec ya brake master cylinder or the slave cylinder and yeah.

This sounds interesting...

vik...sounds like the cure...

master cylinder and booster should be fine as i changed them
both about 12 months ago with brand new ones.


i drove this car the other night definately needed new discs and pads


i would be checking the proportioning valve as said by GTBOB

I'd go with what Bob says - should be pretty much mandatory after bleeding, particularly if the brake fail light stays on.
Failing that, checking that all 4 bleeders are nipped up and not leaking would be the next step.
I take it you checked and lubed if needed the caliper sliders, i.e. the tubes with rubber boots the mounting bolts go through ??

ok ill give this a go when i get home. fingers crossed. thanks for all the advice

Ah fantastic...I think I will have to try that on mine too...that is news to me - no one has ever mentioned that post bleeding of brakes !

Just to confirm, is that the brake pressure switch for the Cruise Control or the one underneath the master cylinder ?

Thanks,
Steve

wheres the master cyclinder located?

its connected to the booster Anthony