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| TimmyA |
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He said just above he covered them... Didn't say whether it showed anything up or not though...
Cheers, Tim
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| tony.martin11 |
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Watch this space, i will attempt to go through his build thread
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| TimmyA |
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Good Luck!!!
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| tony.martin11 |
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Meh. i gave up. trying to read build threads on your friendly Nokia N95 takes forever
 cant wait to get my bloody iPhone  Now, BenJ, i found out today that i may be up for another trans in the AU as the current one is sorta leaking all of its fluids now so if it is the trans that is stuffed, im gonna have a crack at installing an EF auto
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| BenJ |
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Tim, the DATA line also supplies info re temp, Low/Nil oil pressure and other bits and bobs I can't remember right now LOL.
If you get it all hooked up and running without the DATA line you will see what I mean. Re the auto position lights, depending on what you have tricked the Auto ECU into seeing, in my case Neutral, will dictate which figure lights up. Of course I had 'N'. There were no factory manual cars that came with the Fairlane cluster. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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So oil pressure too is on the data line? I thought temp may be... Do I need a different sender for it do you recall Ben?
Was hoping that plug of yours would turn up today Tony so I could trial it over the weekend... Damn Aussie post...Cheers, Tim
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| tony.martin11 |
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timmytimtim wrote: So oil pressure too is on the data line? I thought temp may be... Do I need a different sender for it do you recall Ben? Was hoping that plug of yours would turn up today Tony so I could trial it over the weekend... Damn Aussie post...Cheers, Tim Personally, i feel like giving aus post a kick up the a*** just to hurry them up although lets move over to america, they have 6-day a week post deliveries. Now, back to business... When i installed the fairmont loom and the fairmont cluster, i had to change the oil pressure switch (located under the inlet manifold with one wire) to an oil pressure sensor. the oil pressure sensor is also a damn longer so you need a deep-reach socket. as for the size, ask Ben, he kindly swapped mine over when he delivered the Climate Control Gear 
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| TimmyA |
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I already have an ED sender for my car for my current gauges... Not a switch...
I wanted to know if there is a calibration difference between the ED sensor and The EL sensor, if they differ... Cheers, Tim
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| ED_XR6_5 SPEED |
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timmytimtim wrote: I already have an ED sender for my car for my current gauges... Not a switch... I wanted to know if there is a calibration difference between the ED sensor and The EL sensor, if they differ... Cheers, Tim well im in the process of an el dash conversion at the moment, i did a little test with a potentiometer *spelling* and found that you could probably put a resistor in the line and it should work, just dont know how many ohm resister yet lol. cheers, Tomo
_________________ 98%of city drivers will say ''holly s**t'' befor going into a ditch in a snowstorm and 98%of country drivers will say ''hold my beer and watch this'' |
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| BenJ |
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Yes, you need to get the EF-EL oil pressure sender. It has a different output than the boxcar mushroom looking thing.
I got a new one from Ford approx $70. You need a bloody big deep socket to get it on there too. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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you wanna sell one then Ash?
Thanks for the info BenJ... Still just has the one blade pin on the back? (never seen the oil pressure sender off an EF -AU... I'll suss this out one day... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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yeah ok...
the ED one I have has a steel hex side shaft that bolts into the block and and into the cylindrical type shape sender... I supposed sort of mushroom looking like BenJ said... All metal though... I'll keep an eye out for one then... Many Thanks all... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ok Update...
Not long after starting to use my variable int wiper circuit died and defaulted to the factory 6 or 7 secs... I haven't pulled it apart and diagnosed it yet, but it was fairly robust I thought... So during trials and tests it was only ever exposed to 12 volt supplies and the car while not running... So I am think that as the battery is on its last legs the voltage has been sitting in the mid to high 14 volt mark... The 556 has an absolute max input voltage of 16Volts so I am wondering whether this is too close and the extended use of the circuit has damaged the 556 timer  As such I have re-designed it to include two 9V regulators on the two voltage inputs (Constant + Park) and also swapped out of the output transistor from a BC639 to a BD139 which lifts it from 1amp switching capacity to 1.5amp... It should be nowhere near this amount, but just in case... I'll make it up again and trial run this baby... Also re-arranged and tried to organise the PCB layout a bit better, so no resistors and diodes are in a line, caps are grouped and regs and transistors grouped too... Plus now there is no via's between layers... So you get this: Attachment: 556 Timer (Copper Fill) Real Life.JPG Just waiting on the arrival on the PnP film form the UK (cheaper than Australia) and the components arrived today so I'll build this and give it a go... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| BenJ |
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Good stuff Tim.
Very pleasing to see some refinement going into the fix. Top notch. Cheers BenJ
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| Matt_jew |
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Nice work Tim.
The joys of little niggles as you are pioneering. Fun stuff hey.
_________________ xr6turnip wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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