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TimmyA |
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snap0964 wrote: Sort your steering out first. Nigel wrote: Hmmm... remote TFI. I do like the headsinks in this article... Very helpful link I was toying with the idea of trialling various heatsinks, even making one out of aluminium, and of course the paste is very important.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... te_tfi.htm huggiebear wrote: its been done.. the guy strapping the m90 to his EF made one. pulled one apart then from the pins added new wires, chopped it all down in size then ran wires up to a new location I'd guessed it'd already done, you can disconnect the pins from the cct board inside, and make a flow through for the three wires , making a 'dummy' TFI as per the link above. Keeps crap, etc out of the dizzy.ToranaGuy wrote: I'm doing it with a custom distributor I'm building for my mighty boy. TFI is planned to me mounted on the firewall, still unsure if the length of the wiring will make any negative impact on it's operation. Shouldn't do - the std wiring back to the ECU has a long path - as always, make sure your connections are done well. The only lines I can think of that are shielded is the data bus behind the dash, to the trip comp and climate (EF/EL).My idea is to have these components remote to each other(hall effect/TFI/coil), and have breakout lines going to a 'diagnostic' plug, which you connect a basic testbox, to check PIP, SPOUT, injector pulse, coil power etc. The engine at cranking should provide all of this. This is similar to TimmyA's units, but more basic - just with LED's. The idea is to be able to do roadside testing, and replace the component giving the problem - should be simple to do, only part that would be a PITA would be the hall effect. Snap, TFI's can be gutted and used as a... "terminal box" of sorts... Guessing you've seen my testers by the sounds of that... All I used was genuine motorcraft TFI modules and pulled the guts out... Dad took them to work and put them in the grease eater wash box thing for a week and that is about the only thing that will sort of, kinda eat that horrid gel inside them... Followed up by high pressure water got rid of most of the crap... If you were going remote TFI I would use an empty TFI module in the bottom of the dizzy for sure... Differences with the various modules is that... Bosch: Has very insignificant tabs inside to solder to Motorcraft: Best of them... More tab inside to solder too... Are flimsy tabs though... Hence I fill them with resin for my testers, just means they can never break off... Would advise this... Aftermarket (blank lid): Have huge solid tabs inside... Really easy to solder to... Impossible to drill though the sides of the case (as I did to bring the looms through) You drill through the tracks inside the plastic walls... Motorcraft ones, you can miss them if you drill in the right spot (I ruined about 2 aftermaket TFI's trialling it and 2 genuine motorcraft ones trialling it)... Photos on the first page here: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=95830 This is something I may consider doing myself... Heat really is the death of these varmins... Cheers, Tim
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TimmyA |
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Been a while since I have stuck my head in here actually...
Usually the coil fails because it is mounted on that stupid bracket... So much weight in the coil it eventually cracks through that base... moisture gets inside and you get yourself either no spark or weak spark... If it was mounted down instead of against the block it would not have all that weight hanging off those two bolts and cracking in the narrow section (happened to little bro's car)... The thing that doesn't help is being bolted to the motor with the rpm vibration and sorts... If my motor is ever out that will be getting relocated to the mudguard somewhere were it has easy access and is free from vibration... and screwed down as opposed to against something... :/ Touch wood I haven't had to use my TFI tester yet... No doubt something will fail one day though... I learnt a lot when trying to find parts to make these things... Read heaps and heaps of pages to try and understand how the system works... Its way too complicated though... :/ One of those TFI heatsinks would be great though if anyone finds where you can buy the proper one to fit the TFI... Cheers, Tim
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BenJ |
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snap0964 wrote: Be wise to check your clevis behind the clutch pedal. From memory they are pretty cheap from Ford - around $5-$8 ??? Yep, gave the clevis a very thorough inspection while I had it removed, and there is no sign of fatigue. I will however buy a spare one to keep in the car, as if it does break, it is almost impossible to bodqy up a temp repair. Cheers BenJ
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ToranaGuy |
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I broke a clevis the other day, westpoint ford charged me $12 a pop for a couple of spares.
In regards to the TFI heatsink, I think you could pickup something to suit from Jaycar or Radio parts. I was planning on running wiring from my distributor to a tfi mounted on the firewall in the mighty boy, and it looks as tho it will need to be shielded, but that isn't all that hard to do or to get. I think the firewall will make a good heatsink. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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fairlane6970 |
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Me thinks I shall not bother with a manual conversion seems to make them fall to bits! and are pretty hard work - my ZD was pretty easy to do in comparison!
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TimmyA |
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Could always strip and ecu loom and steal the shield from it... you compress it and it grows in dia and slides off... That is if you have a spare loom...
Mice cables are not very dia cross sectional area but they are shielded... As are most audio cables and signal cables used in other purposes... Definitely not hard to come by... Jaycar do general ones but that proper heat sink looks need... Last remaining option is to get one like it and painstakingly remove all the fins from the middle to make the TFI fit into it like the ones in the article... Cheers, Tim
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snap0964 |
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TimmyA wrote: TFI's can be gutted and used as a... "terminal box" of sorts... Yep, done one already - soldered and with epoxy bolstering.TimmyA wrote: that horrid gel inside them... PITA that Gel - wasn't 'too' hard to get out though.TimmyA wrote: Usually the coil fails because it is mounted on that stupid bracket...So much weight in the coil it eventually cracks through that base... moisture gets inside and you get yourself either no spark or weak spark...If it was mounted down instead of against the block it would not have all that weight hanging off those two bolts and cracking in the narrow section. One of those TFI heatsinks would be great though if anyone finds where you can buy the proper one to fit the TFI...Jaycar do general ones but that proper heat sink looks need... Last remaining option is to get one like it and painstakingly remove all the fins from the middle to make the TFI fit into it like the ones in the article... I'm picturing the coil and TFI sitting on a small platform - coil sitting horizontal, TFI near it - TFI has a generic heatsink on it's dizzy side which sits upperside, TFI is mounted to tray with 2 standoffs underneath.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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BenJ |
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Soooooooo, anyone want to guess what went wrong today on the way home from work?
Starter motor certainly is nice and strong. Cheers BenJ
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TimmyA |
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something that allowed to still get home or something that immobilised the car?
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BenJ |
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I was able to get home under my own power.
Traffic lights were a particular issue however. Cheers BenJ
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OZBMX |
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nmayvbe fuel related atleast your not the wild roveer no everr nom more
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TimmyA |
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wasn't clutch related was it
Traffic lights are an issue then...
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OZBMX |
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what like cable , afterall snap reinforced the box, aghhh your drunk your fdrunk you silll
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BenJ |
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The Clutch Cable snapped where it clips onto the clutch fork - AGAIN.
Good thing I had a spare in the car. Cheers BenJ
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SWC |
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BTR..............................
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