Sort of already said, a few posts ago by some drongo

for valiants you can get a bracket thet slides over the engine mount limiting the strech of the rubber maybe one could be designed for the ford ??? ef type of engine mount is round and a simple welded box with cutouts to accomidate the mounting thread sould do or you could go cowboy and weld some chain to the subfraim and bolt it to the motor with just enough slack to keep every one happy lol

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Longer bolts & some chain is how i stopped breaking mounts in the torana. Keep the chain on so the mounts can move, but not enough to break. I have a thought or two on designing something a bit better looking, but with the same purpose.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

I was just going to say something like
"Someone really dodgy would just use chain and constrain the motor"
but now I don't have to.

lol Fiend. Been a while since I've seen one of your posts. Chain, especially stuff rated to restrain / lift loads is rather tough stuff! Racers used to do it a lot years ago as a safety measure.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

I used to have a piece of chain of the engine mount on my 360 powered VE VIP Valiant. Was the only way as the rubber mount would just rip in half.

Cheers
BenJ

Which is why really Hi-po car's usually have solid mounts in them lol. My torry, when i fit the turbo, would tear the mount very easily, time & time again. Chain fixed that one too.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

BA DOHC 7 - Progress

Heater Pipes

What are the differences? A bit of background info.

On an EF-EL the left hand heater pipe exits the back of the water pump, goes under the exhaust manifold, around the back of the head and then forward and under the rear of the BBM. Here it joins a hose to the heater box. The right hand heater pipe exits the lower thermostat housing, goes under the BBM. Here it joins a hose to the heater tap which has another hose going to the heater box. There is a small diameter bypass hose that joins the two metal pipes under the BBM.

On a BA the left hand heater pipe exits the back of the water pump, goes under the exhaust manifold, but hugs the block a lot closer, and finishes near the back of the engine. Here it joins a hose to the heater box. The right hand heater pipe exits the lower thermostat housing, goes under the BBM, around the back of the head and finishes near the back right hand side of the head. Here it joins a hose to the heater box. There is a small diameter bypass hose that joins the two metal pipes at the right rear of engine.

The solution.

Obviously, the aim is to route the water from the right side of the engine, as per a BA, to the left side of the engine to match up with the E Series heater box.

After settling on an EF-EL front left heater pipe from the thermostat housing, it was time to sort out the the left side and the rear.

I decided to keep the BA heater pipe exiting the water pump.

This is what the stock outlet looks like.


After 30 seconds work with an angle grinder I had this. I don't need the bypass outlet here.


That was simple enough, and follows the example of others who have gone before. I am a little concerned about heat from the exhaust manifold, but seeing as Ford thought it would be OK, I will see how it goes. It would be simple to make up a small heat shield/wrap if needed.

For the rear pipe, I used a factory EF-EL right hand pipe, and cut it short. I cut it in half approx where the pipe goes around the back of the head on the right hand side and discarded the part that would normally go to the back of the water pump.


It bolted up to the BA BBM in the same location it does in an E Series. But due to the location of the BA Temp Sensor in the back of the head, I needed to raise the pipe up a bit to clear it. I made a short bracket that will attach to one of the bell housing bolts. This lifts the pipe enough to clear the Temp Sensor, and provides stability to the pipe.


Then using a length of 5/8 heater hose I joined the two pipes together.


As I will be running LPG, join will later be used to divert water to the LPG Convertor. Perfect position really.

I then made up a support bracket for the front heater pipe.



SORTED!!!!

BA PCM BRACKET

Many thanks to Ashcook for this little but very necessary present.


Cheers
BenJ

Last edited by BenJ on Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

looking good, so whats it going in? are you going to do your own loom?

troy its going into a wagon first up for trial and error, the ones its all in and running then it will be all converted into the black wagon

hey benj on ebay ive seen a guy in qld who is making stand alone looms where u just hook up to the ecu and to ign and apparently it will run the engine,

what do you think, do u think its a scam??

interesting post there bradley. have you got a link to the ad?

why yes i do here it is, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-BA-BF-XR6-TURBO-MANUAL-Standalone-engine-harness-/260642192221?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3caf7c3b5d

do you think it would work?

I think it will work AS ADVERTISED. The loom won't talk to the donor car, so your dash etc won't work correctly, and you still have to have the PCM Flashed.



Here is the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-BA-BF-XR6-TURBO-MANUAL-Standalone-engine-harness-/260642192221?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3caf7c3b5d

This loom costs $595 and is for a manual transmission only.

I can build my own for the cost of time and a bit of brain power.

Cheers
BenJ

Well at that cost no as BenJ is doing it on a budget and where is the challenge and mental stimulation in working out where or what the wires do.