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| TimmyA |
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Heya BenJ,
Yeah mate, it was handy til it defaulted to factory timing... So I'll give it a whirl made like this... It worked flawlessly on the test bench, unsure why it died so over-voltage is pretty much all I can put it down to... See how long it last this time... Electronics always have issues  datamine's flappy paddles are another prime example...I'll keep at it... Got an Anderson plug installed in the boot today to power my trailer winch for the tipper... Just have to wait til the shops open on Monday again to get some more cable to finish the controls off  Damn country towns and closed on Sunday shops...Cheers all, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Does anybody know if the TFI module on the ED can be pulled apart and have the electronics pulled from it and just the plastic plug part salvaged?
 Or alternatively, I can buy the plug that is one the harness... But I can't find the plug that the harness plugs into, anybody know where I can get one? Basically I wanna make a patch harness to go in series with the TFI module... Asmention a "repair" plug is available to replace the harness side, but not the TFI side, maybe I can use a TFI module and pulls its guts... Anybody have one lying around I can get a snap of please...  Thanks, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Help From anybody?
Cheers...
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| BenJ |
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I think you are delving into virgin territory there Timmyboy.
You will have to pull one apart to see if it will work. BenJ
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| TROYMAN |
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it can be pulled appart, basically bust it open and break out the curcuit board, then you are left with a few little tabs, that you can solder wire to...
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| TimmyA |
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That's a start...
Thanks guys... try and find a dodge one somewhere and see if I can't ruin it...  I'll do some research of my own... haha Cheers...
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Hi all...
BenJ in need of your expertise please??? This cluster mod... Made the patch harness last night... Plugged it in this morning and gave it a whirl... Pretty happy on first go with around 95% functionality... So I just need your thoughts on some teething issues... Firstly: The red light on the "E" of the fuel gauge (I'm assuming close to empty light?) is always on when it wasn't on the ED cluster, admittedly needle is getting low atm, but I thought because it wasn't on with the ED cluster it shouldn't be with the NL one... Is it just "the way it is" or is there a different fuel sender or...? Secondly: The LCD doesn't light up... Now there is two wires for the LCD illumination... I have neither hooked up (as per the pin outs from you)... And I don't have the resistor soldered in... The tech doco on the resistor has a completely different circuit board to mine (I have to NL clusters now and both have the same board) and the position for this resistor is not on it... (Well not where the photo shows it in the tech doco anyway)... Where did you solder yours into and did you end up leaving both wires disconnected? Thirdly: All lights and functions work (other than above mentioned) except I cannot find the brake fail light, I wired the wire in for it, but there is no jewel for it so is it in the LCD or somewhere else? Also I imagine the light on the 10V on the voltmeter is alternator fail? And I noticed with the data wire disconnected, I had massive oil pressure (wrong sender still) and the low pressure light came on... So this low pressure light indicates just that or something else? Any help or input from anyone else is greatly appreciated Esp seeing as I've never really driven a EF/EL and paid attention to the 4 red lights on the minor gauges really are for... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ok fuel light issue solved... in diag mode the dash said 7L left so either the senders are different between the models, or the gauge is calibrated differently or something anyway... Will just take some getting used to... Other than that it seems to work well... Some white LED's and get some whit faced dial for it and it'll look smashing...
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timmytimtim wrote: Hi all... BenJ in need of your expertise please??? Ok, lets see what we can do. timmytimtim wrote: This cluster mod... Made the patch harness last night... Plugged it in this morning and gave it a whirl... Pretty happy on first go with around 95% functionality... So I just need your thoughts on some teething issues... Very good start. timmytimtim wrote: Firstly: The red light on the "E" of the fuel gauge (I'm assuming close to empty light?) is always on when it wasn't on the ED cluster, admittedly needle is getting low atm, but I thought because it wasn't on with the ED cluster it shouldn't be with the NL one... Is it just "the way it is" or is there a different fuel sender or...? There is a different impedence for the fuel sender. I personally have not changed this on my Petrol tank, either on my old Sedan, or the Wagon, but I did put in the correct LPG Tank sender as it was WAY off. The petrol guages have been quite close. Up to you if you source an EF-EL sender. timmytimtim wrote: Secondly: The LCD doesn't light up... Now there is two wires for the LCD illumination... I have neither hooked up (as per the pin outs from you)... And I don't have the resistor soldered in... The tech doco on the resistor has a completely different circuit board to mine (I have to NL clusters now and both have the same board) and the position for this resistor is not on it... (Well not where the photo shows it in the tech doco anyway)... Where did you solder yours into and did you end up leaving both wires disconnected? As I am using an EB Fairmont Dash Loom and BCM, which has the variable dimming, I did not need to solder in the resistor. PM Snap0964 as he might be able to assist. timmytimtim wrote: Thirdly: All lights and functions work (other than above mentioned) except I cannot find the brake fail light, I wired the wire in for it, but there is no jewel for it so is it in the LCD or somewhere else? Also I imagine the light on the 10V on the voltmeter is alternator fail? And I noticed with the data wire disconnected, I had massive oil pressure (wrong sender still) and the low pressure light came on... So this low pressure light indicates just that or something else? Hmmm, I don't recall ever seeing the brake fail warning symbol come up. I do know the low window washer bottle sybmol is in the LCD, as is the economy and cruise symbols. Also ask Snap about that. Re the other things, I believe they are all related to the absence of the DATA line. Water temp also will not work. timmytimtim wrote: Any help or input from anyone else is greatly appreciated Esp seeing as I've never really driven a EF/EL and paid attention to the 4 red lights on the minor gauges really are for... I hope that is of some assistance. Keep up the good work. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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yeah had more troubles with the fuel gauge... water temp worked straight away... When you unplug the data line the max light blinks and you get cold...
Trouble with the fuel gauge is it just seems the needle sits slightly higher when the light comes on... The ED has the needle in the middle of the red section before the light comes on, the NL cluster has it just as the needles touches the red section... But when in diag mode it tells the resistance and hence litres in the tank... George tells me it was the same sensor right through (same part number anyway, didn't change til late EL/AU) so much just be the way its set up... It just how well do you actually trust it all... If it says 2L then is there 0L,2L or 5L in there? They are never accurate... I generally fill up coz I get sick of the trip computer beeping at me... I have the ED one back in for now as the EEC-V is chipped for max performance with the cam (when it goes in one day )... and Jason reckons its best not to run it with the std cam although I'm not sure why now The trouble I was having for the few days was that I could not get fresh air through the AC...With the car on (motor off) I could get both fresh and recycle, once you started the car it locked to recycle... I do not know why... It seems the solenoid on the back of the AC switch unit powers and this locks it to recycle (disconnected a hose and functionality came back ) Putting the EEC-IV back in fixed the problem... So I do not know why this is happening, or what the purpose of this such solenoid is? Any pointers here would be great... Might have to ask Jason if he can dial whatever this is out of the EEC-V... Then funny story... once I sorted that out (this is all last night)... I did it all back up and put the trip computer in and started the car and it came up with zero k's to empty  and I thought na thats not right... so I unplugged it and left it for a bit and tried again... same... hmmm wtf is going on here then... plugged the cluster in... over a quarter tank... TC still says zero... unplugged cluster to check wiring... all looks good... tried spare TC same thing...plugged cluster in again... still heaps of fuel... ended up being... if you have the cluster unplugged and start the car, the TC must not see the resistance or voltage drop or whatever it is it sees, when you plug the cluster in (with the car on) it doesn't fix the error... you must plug it in and then cycle the car off then on... then it works... took ages to find out what the hell was happening...  start to really piss me off by the end...Anyway yeah... getting there... sort out why the EEC-V locks to recycle, fix the LCD lighting, install some SMD 5050 T5 Leds for illumination I wouldn't mind some red needles I think and suss out something with the TC when the EEC-V goes in for good (it does some weird s**t with the different data signal)... Work in progress... Cheers, Tim
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Keep at it Tim!
All these high level mods take time and effort, but are well worth it in the end. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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Oh yeah looks a million bucks... Just gotta fix up the LCD and tape up the loom...
If it was difficult trying to get my bracket and cluster in before (bracket is a little larger than what would be ideal) well its a nightmare now, forgot to allow any tolerances for the wires hanging out the bum of the cluster... It just fits... So I may make some minor modifications to the outside dimensions of the bracket... I am going to get an EF/EL trip computer and have a go at working something out to make that fit in the early E series dash... this way I can get the data out of the cluster and wire it up the way it was intended... I think it'll be just that little bit better than staying with the ED T/C... I'll just leave out the O/Speed button off it as I'm not one for that sort of thing... I set cruise to a GPS when I go away and don't really need an O/Speed alert (GPS does have one anyway)... I'll get one and strip them both down and see what I can't work out anyway... It'll either work or it wont... Now to try and get this lokka in and 1636 in... Had these parts sitting round for yonks... Bout time I hassled the old man to give me hand to put them in... Cheers, Tim
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Just found it why the EEC-V was causing it lock to re-circ too...
This document has been updated since I installed the chip... http://www.tiperformance.com.au/Technic ... 0EA-ED.pdf Thanks to Jason... On ED pin 32 triggers the recirc solenoid (why the car needs to tigger the recirc solenoid I don't know?), on the EL is related to factory LPG (pin 32 that is)... So all I have to do is pull the red plastic thingo out of the EEC plug and pull out pin 32 and tape it back up in the loom... Problem solved... This mod is slowly working itself out... Cheers, Tim
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Hi all...
The reason I wanted TFI plugs... Who here has seen this piece of test equipment? Attachment: DSC_1019.JPG Attachment: DSC_1020.JPG Attachment: DSC_1021.JPG Basically what it does: When you have no spark (car wont start)... The CAM tester (gets codes out of EEC) cannot tell you why you have no spark, that is where this comes in... In a matter of seconds, with the addition of a spark test plug, you can identify where is the hall effect, TFI or coil that is causing the no spark issue... Steps of diagnosis: 1) Car has no spark (tested with removed spark plug or test plug) 2) Disconnect coil lead from dizzy and plug test plug into it (or wind engine to 10BTDC so spark is to no1 lead (engine needs to be on compression stroke)) 3) Plug this test in series with the TFI 4) Press simulate button 5) If spark is present at test plug, then hall effect module (inside dizzy) has failed (this module replaces its signal to computer) 6) If no spark is still present then either TFI or coil has failed 7) Connect test lamp (must be filament, not LED) between power plug and coil- plug 8) Press simulate button 9) If lamp flashes coil is failing (Signal is getting to the coil) 10) If lamp is still out TFI module is failing (Signal is not leaving the TFI)... So for a no start this module is just as handy as a CAM tester, except much much easier to copy... So today I spent examining the in's and outs of it... This obviously tests more what I've just mentioned (more plugs and LED's) but when it turned up at the old man's work, there was no instructions for it and this is how he worked out how to use it and how it makes identifying the problem so much easier than taking stabs at just changing parts... As such I'll probably simplify mine a bit by permanently adding a filament bulb to it and leaving out banana sockets as nobody really knows what to use the other things for... The LED's are odd... Power obviously lights when it has 12V Crank lights when key is held to start PIP, Spout & Coil- LED's are fed out of the circuitry at odd points and are not directly related to the banana socket they live next to, so what they indicate exactly... Well I have no idea... Anyway, my task is to duplicate this... makes identifying the problem very very easy... As with all test equipment, you invest in it hoping you'll never need it... But you just never know... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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Na, no input from anyone? Thought some people may have thought that for the once in a blue moon you split a coil and it gets moisture in it or you burn out a TFI module that this would be a handy addition to some?
Anyway... I have drawn the circuit up virtually identical in my PCB software... Now to print it and etch it and see if I can make something up... Attachment: T2100TFI.jpg Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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