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| snap0964 |
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If you're going to go to all that effort Tim, might be better to fit the late EF/EL bosch 5.3 system. The earlier Bendix systems weren't hardly world breaking.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Na it won't ever get abs... I'm not a fan... All the au wiring in my car was set up with abs removed...
So I require the non abs master, and as mentioned before the wheel speed sensors will feed into the haltech for traction, launch and speedo output... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| snap0964 |
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Well you'll need an AUII sedan mast for the correct split point.
Actually, you should talk to a brake specialist about all of this, and see if you get the same info back.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Yeah sounds good... I can source an AUII master no dramas... Seems like a good compromise I guess... Do you know if it effects E series resting pedal height?
There is no "brake engineers" out this way... And I'm having enough trouble trying to explain a tune to people over emails, let alone some braking system concoction to someone over an email... If we need that info it'll have to be someone living in a city chasing that up... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| snap0964 |
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Nah, I meant if you could speak to someone face to face - email/text would be too painful.
We had no pedal height issues on RD's AUI.5 - they do have the brake switch sitting on the pedal pin along with a plastic sleeve, plastic spacer, and a spring clip that holds it all on. I think the EA/EB/ED's have all of that but not the switch as it sits on a bracket.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Well... Been trying and trying to find someone who will sell me ED engine mounts so I could fit the motor to the new body I have there (bugger motor, but enough for a mock up)... After having 3 or more people promise to get to back to me and chasing down numerous ebay posts and gumtree posts of people who are wrecking early E series, I cracked it and decided today to pull the engine mounts out of the red car to mock up the silver car...
What a proverbial pain in the bum... Hardest bolts to get to in the world... Anyway got them out... Got them on the spare motor, manage to use the hoist to drop the spare motor in the new body... Only just worked too I might add... Here's some photos once I'd taken a bonnet clearance measurement and mount the 80mm TB to the new manifold plate... Even hooked straight up to my B series intake pipework, so looks pretty good... May go with a boxed pod one day... Can't be bothered for now... The panel filter will flow enough air I'd think... Might even put it to the dyno one day... Coil are just sitting there, but somewhere there is their destined location...Bypass is a perfect fit to miss everything critical as well... Even with the pipework behind the plate for the intake bend, I'll still have more room behind it than with the BBM...      Lot of hour of work to get one measurement from the top of the blower to the bonnet... Done anyway, and now I can get the intake pipe welded up... Back into it... To be fair, the last month I've been setting up the Christmas display... I made a 4m christmas tree that I hoist about 7m off the ground up the concrete antenna pole I have... Has around 50m of leds in it and draws about 20amps at 12v... It's a bloody ripper... I did start it last year but ran out of time before Christmas... So I finished it off for this year...  It does some pretty nifty chaser stuff too that I programmed into it, but I'm having trouble uploading the video to photobucket... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| roughredXR6 |
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Aw yes!
Getting excited now! Fits in there nicely, good stuff.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| fiend |
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And still a million miles ahead of me...
Sigh... Good to see someone having success |
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| TimmyA |
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Ok lads...
Brake pads...? I thought ebc were the rage but just read a pommy forum and every single person reckons they're crap... And a couple reckon ferodo ds is the go... What's likely to stop my bf with minimal noise and dust? Current rda pads are squealing their heads off... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Double post...
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| rainoffire |
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Hey Timmy,
I just logged back in for the first time in ages to update my build thread, good to see there's still some people around here. I use and swear by QFM Pads. I run the A1RM pads in my daily, if you aren't going crazy, you could run the HPX pads instead, I will probably be switching to them soon. I ran the A1RM pads with the stock E-series brakes at the Winton and never managed to overheat them, whereas I cooked Bendix Ultimate's a few times just "enthusiastically" driving on the street. |
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| snap0964 |
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Yeah, the HPX pads are really good - feel and braking wise. The dust is low too. If you search Ebay well, you should be able to get a good set of QFM pads for a good price.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Sweet... 2 in favour... Thanks lads...
I'll buy me a set and see what it yields...
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| rainoffire |
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If you like low dust, I would definitely go HPX then, thats the main reason I want to switch to them. The A1RM are super dusty, and they eat rotors for breakfast. I get two sets of pads to a set of a rotors, which is not a good ratio haha. The HPX are much better all rounders
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| acko |
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Age: 64 Posts: 58 Joined: 20th Feb 2007 Ride: Fairmont EBII & EL 4.0 Location: Melbourne (nth suburbs) |
Hi Timmy, that' one hell of a thread you've got there. I particularly like the E series blend door article and the TFI mods.
On the blend door, I repaired one of these years ago by gluing plastic to the broken swing arm but it only lasted a few years. I removed the duct to do it and that was a shocker of a job. Is there some easy way to remove the duct on EBII Fairmont? What I discovered when investigating why it broke was the travel on the actuator stroke was way longer than the possible travel in the swing arm. So I lengthened the swing arm to almost match just allowing a little extra to close the vent properly. Unfortunately lengthening the swing arm also increases the bend moment on it and as I only used plastic it broke again a few years later. Just curious if you noticed the mismatch in travel? On the TFI module, I've been thru hell with these things. Four modules in as many years. I am this morning replacing the coil, cap & TFI module. I've been diagnosing the TFI by test light and multi-meter at the coil connection. If the signal is constant when cranking I figure the TFI is gone as the coil requires a pulse to create a spark. I know the hall effect creates the pulse but I figure the signal has to go thru the TFI before it gets to the coil. Previously I did the above test, determined it was TFI which I replaced and it was all good. Love one of those testers you made up but don't have the resources to make it. You remind me of old bloke I new who's gone now, but he was aircraft engineer and also a Ford electrical engineer back in the XB days. He would be smiling at all that stuff your making. Down the track I might look at your remote mount TFI as I have a few old modules to use for branching off the dizzy with the loom. I'm glad you covered that as I was wondering how to run the wires out without destroying the water integrity of the dizzy. I'm also wondering if the TFI could be left in original position and a few loops of small water pipe epoxied to the outside of the TFI with hoses running up to say the wiper water tank. I do a bit with PC's and currently playing with water cooled CPU's which made me think of this. The TFI is mounted lower than the wiper water tank so running pipes and hoses so they allow for the convection flow might create a water cooled TFI. The wiper water tank stays cool and when full probably has excess volume of water for cooling requirements, just need a tapping point at bottom of tank to go to bottom of TFI with cool water, and about half way up tank for the return with hot water from top of TFI. The tank has a low water sensor in my car so that would warn you if system is low. Any thoughts on a water cooled TFI? It might be simpler than remote mounting it. |
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