i need help...

the ford spec says to dial the cam to 12deg btdc on intake no 1 at a measurement of .050mm which is where it opens for no1... That is good and well... The issue is, do i dial it to that while it is retarded as it sits in the motor naturally... Or is that the spec for idle when it is advanced?

I have measured lift at tdc for both scenarios... First is assuming i dial it to 12deg btdc retarded as it sits now ...

.011 inch retarded at tdc so winding the crank 20 degrees to give 10 cam degrees advanced would mean
.060 inch in advanced spec

or you set it up so that you have you 12deg before being your advanced at idle spec meaning you actually dial it in to 32 deg btdc so that when it advances 20 crank you get your 12deg:

.011 inch advanced spot and then going back the other way 20 deg you have
.0005 inch when retarded...

These are at the lobe and rocker ratio is 1.8

i have no idea but the was 1636 was dialed into 25lobe but had a 2.0 ratio so 50 thou (1.27mm) valve atdc

while these measurements at the valve are either:

.503mm retarded
2.743mm advanced

or

.023 mm retarded
.503mm advanced

no where near the same valve lift as the 1636

so who reckons which set of measurements is right?

Cheers,
tim

It Lives!

Goes good too

So much nicer having the right manifold for the ECU... Plus higher compression, bigger valves, vct etc

Again will post up more pics and details for the remote TFI and my new coil mounting when the net is back... 4 days...

But this is the end result for now:



One spark lead in my eagle set is too short so will get a longer one for that... Ran into some technical difficulties as you do... Will post up my findings with more detail later on... One I haven't resolved is:

The entire intake is AU... Except for the BBM top which is e series as I needed the MAP sensor port... When you rev it the computer holds it to 1200rpm idle for a bit and then does it's quick inhale noise thing and drops back to 800-ish rpm... Just curious if you guys have any pointers? Does the AU IAC not work with the EL computer, or AU TPS not work, or something like that? Entire AU throttle body just bolted straight on... Can try a few things... Another computer chipped with a steeper dash pot... E series throttle body... E series TPS... But if you guys can save me trialling that'd be sweet... Have reset the computer twice to no avail...

Also disconnected the VCT plug and took it for a burn and it didn't really seem to make a huge amount difference with it unplugged... When I plugged it on for the first time it made an audible difference... But the engine wasn't timed right or anything that that stage either... And now it makes next to no noise change at idle... It is normal? Or is it misbehaving? Sticky VCT phasor not retarding or something? Not entirely sure how you check it... Would like to purchase another VCT phasor and try that as mine had been pulled to bits and something may be amiss... All I can prove is the solenoid is working fine... Can feel it click as you pull the plug and push it back onto it...

Cheers,
Tim

looking good Tim

any more mods planned for the near future?

thanks for the thoughts bear... As far as future mods go, may only be going to try a cam in the car and see how that works... Other than that think i have pretty much done everything i wanted to thus far and hadn't planned much as yet... Glad tghis mod is done and the car runs and i'm still stoked about much poke it has now... Compared to before when it was getting the wrong map values and had to next to no go...

Ruled out the tps and the computer as to why it is holding a high idle for a few seconds... Next thing now is to change the throttle body to an ef/el one as the ef/el iac wont bolt on the au throttle body... If it works fine either it is all ai iac's or mine is just d**k...

Gone awfully quiet in here... Nobody can short track my invesigation? Is there a known compatability issue with an au iac on an e series computer? Or something else anyone can think of?

Cheers,
tim

Timmy

Well done once again.

I can only say I have had nothing but issues with the ICS (Idle Control Solenoid) and changing ICSs or ECUs has had no effect.

They just suck!

Hence my switch to turn the sucker off once the car is warm enough to idle on its own.

Cheers
BenJ

mine always worked fine when i had the el ecu..
i had made the holes in the isc gasket about 6mm to restrict the isc, i also adjusted the idle speed by unpluging the isc and slowly turned the idle speed down untill just stall, pluged the isc in and it worked perfect....

thanks for your thoughts ben... What are you running yours?

El computer, el throttle body and el iac? Or a strange combination like me?

The el ticky computer controlled the ed iac fine despite not liking the map readings on the wrong manifold... If the bbm e series ones are all crap i'll run the ed one on it... Because they all work fine... I currently have it unplugged but because it is a base idle setting (600 to 700rpm) it can be a pain when cold... Starts and idles no worries... But clutching and dropping rpm suddenly can cause it to stall... Nice to drive with a quick throttle drop like that though... Just like an old car...

Not sure what made the most difference with the install... Be it the head, the cam or the manifold... Gee the car is torquey now... As soon as i get the net back and off this phone i'll show you what i did with the coil... Needs to be done from under the car still, would probably get it with the airbox out i think but would be an all by feel task... Makes it easier with the ed compressor mounting lower too... And my remote tfi turned out awesomely too... Just didn't have any skinny spade terminals, i only had the 6.4mm ones so need to change them to the 5. Whatever size the smaller ones are...

Cheers,
tim

troy, there is every possibility that i have a crook unit... Maybe putting the ef/el unit i have here on it will fix it... Just a shame that out of such a massive job that this was the only thing that caused a problem... Something so small but yet so painful...

Woo! I have bandwidth once more...

So the successes of the install were:

Thurs 26th...

Started around lunch time and it was basically just a pull it to bits type day... The extractors, old intake, P/S pump, belts, idler pulley plates, took off everything that looked like it was going to be in the way... Got the head off and the block cleaned... VCT head was on by dark and spent some time working out the timing and such...

Friday

This was the day for purchasing anything that I'd missed seeing as though the shops were open again and I could get anything before the weekend... I needed a new coil and Ford here had one remaining brand new one in stock... An item which I am told is now NLA as a genuine item... Friday morning I spent making my revised coil mount up... My old coil was cracked right across the top and down the sides from hanging off the side of the block... No wonder why it wouldn't start when I washed the motor down... This bracket will reduce the fatigue on the top edge of the hard epoxy case... Preventing it from cracking... I wasn't sure how it earthed on the secondary and because I painted the bracket I made up an earth strap in case the secondary earthed through the steel sleeves in the base... I have since discovered this is not required... Set to work making up the rear BBM mounting bracket... I don't have the factory mounting points so a couple of cuts and welds and I had a rear bracket which anchors to the top starter bolt... I spent the arvo re-dialling the cam in and trying to work out whether the book implied the spec in there was the advanced or retarded setting for the cam... Set it as the retarded setting and left it at that... Some phone calls to wise people told me they'd do the same if it was up to them...

Saturday

Wiring day... Even the simplest of wiring involves so much time... Started with the engine loom... moved the IAT, IAC and TPS plugs... Had to put a couple of inches in the IAT sensor and the TPS was a touch short too... The ED earth tacho wire got lengthened a bit too for a comfortable reach... I renewed the earth ring that screwed to the block... It was a bit corroded looking... That front bolt also became the front mount point for the BBM... That was made up on Saturday arvo once I had the lower BBM bolted on... The other wiring that was modified was the computer loom... The TFI plug was pulled out back to where the first fork in the wiring is at the mudguard... I had to then lengthen the pink coil negative wire to plug in to the engine loom half... This plug is held in place under one of the IAC bolts on the ED throttle body... If you unplug it, this the wiring from the TFI to the coil which grounds it giving you your spark... Would make good immobilisation... I still used the mounting bracket for it... Drilled it to 8mm and mounted it with the front brace and water pipe on the BBM manifold... It is on there backwards out of sight but tucked up safe... I mounted the remote TFI heatsink between the wishbone arm bolts where it gets airflow across it but is safe out of the way... Saturday's dilemma was a learning curve... My old man walking past and saying look down the injector ports... They were half covered in intake gasket... Investigation revealed ED and EF onward used two different gaskets, and I had the ED one... The EF-AU one I got on Sunday (luckily) has higher injector holes in it... It clears the boss holes in the manifold when you look down there, but you can still see the head groove hanging low... So for those who are not aware... This is something to note... After then running comparisons, I'd use the EF to AU gasket even on the ED... It clears everything better than the lower cut ED manifold gasket...

Sunday

This was it... New manifold gasket... Intake got bolted up piece by piece... The cleaned AU injectors went back in their rail and then onto the manifold... dipstick... EF/EL upper manifold... AU throttle body... All the wiring went in... plugged in nice... final corrections to the oil pipe for the VCT to miss the dizzy by as much as possible... fitted my eagle 9mm leads... Last step was changing the cruise cable and the accelerator cable and pedal... Hit the key and started like it'd been there for ages... stopped it... reset the computer so it could start fresh... finished putting the cooling system in then... on the attempt to time it, i thought it'd probably want to be timed with the cam advanced... and with a deep breath I plugged the vct phasor in and the hunt went away and it didn't bend a valve so I clearly picked the right position to dial the cam in at... Timed it... Drove it from outside to inside the shed to jack it up and put the bottom bolt in the back manifold brace... Discovered it was 5mm short and then spent ages re-shapping and then trying... shapping then trying... Took what felt like all day... Shortened the fuel lines so they weren't rubbing on the starter... Hit the key again to do the base idle and it wouldn't start... Got out my TFI tester and after a bit, determined it had no spark... And that it was the coil letting the team down, not the dizzy.. Checked the primary plug and it had a pin dropped out in it... Cool... Reset the lock tab and clicked it in... Also did the other pin too... Tried again... Nothing... Tried the old cracked coil but just by temporarily hanging it under the manifold... Spark... New coil... Nothing... POS new genuine coil crapped it's pants... Unbolted the new coil from under the car and fitted the old one back again... Car starts... Leaving the good coil hanging there and seeing it spark proved the ground for the secondary and the primary are indeed hooked together and the ground wire you'll see in the photos isn't required... But I left it there anyway... Wasn't hurting anything... On new reports, this bracket makes changing the coil a breeze... You can see it and get to the two bolts...

Took it for a drive once the base idle was done and the air box fitted... And holy s**t... what a different car... I have torque now... it pulls at 1500rpm in 4th gear... Wouldn't do it before... Has pull at 5000rpm where it didn't before... Awesome car... Only issue is the rev hang above idle for a few seconds... So still working on that atm... Just unplugged the IAC for now... Cluster reports 7-9L per 100km out the road cruising around... as opposed to the 10-11 I was getting before... So has improved all round to date...

So photos:

New coil mount:



New TFI home:




General photos showing all including the oil line routing to miss the dizzy...



Completed pics:



The gasket you see stuck to the head above was the ED gasket after I'd pulled the manifold back off...

So that's pretty much last weekend summed up...

Cheers,
Tim

Excellent work there Timmy, your attention to detail is awesome mate!

The engine bay looks real tidy with the VCT motor installed

thanks mate... Yeah its the finer details that make things nice... Gives it that edge over a dodgy job... Preparation, time to think and cleaning everything makes for a good end result...

I will agree with you... Do love the vct rocker cover... Just that nice subtle difference...

Seeingly fixed the iac holding revs... Fitted the ef/el throttle body and the iac on it works better at this stage... Getting another au one to try on the ef/el throttle body to save me changing the plug... Will report back with more then... Haven't been for a drive yet, but in the back yard revs so seem to drop off quicker...

Cheers,
tim

Hey Tim,

looking good , did you make the coil bracket or is it an oem part of another car?

cheers, bear

Na my handy work...

It is 100x75x6 angle... About 60 or 70mm of it from memory (spare steel I had lying around)... Drilled the two holes to bolt it to the block... they were 75 or 80mm apart... And then you'll see in the photos the bottom is thicker... I welded a 6mm plate to the bottom of the angle to make the bottom part 12mm thick... Drilled two holes down the centre of this section... Tapped them to M4 and bought two M4 cap head bolts with anti-shake star washers for the coil... This way I can easily undo them from under the car with an allen key instead of trying to operate a phillips screw driver sideways if I'd have used the factory screws... Same with the plate to the block... I can easily get an allen key on them from under the car... I cut some excess material off the sides of the longer section and rounded the top edge... Quick lick of cold gal paint and it should be rust proof (was gal angle anyway, but rust proofing never hurts)...

Only dilemma, the coil I pulled off that 55mm hole centres... Then the new coil I got to replace the cracked one had 50mm hole centres so I had to drill another hole then to allow for it... That coil died and now have the cracked old one on there again... It is time consuming drilling a 3mm hole through about an inch of steel... Snapped the drill bit off once with just enough to grab with vice grips and remove... Sharpened the bit again and had more success then after, lube helped too... As i mentioned above, that earth strap wasn't necessary as I found out later... the primary and secondary share a common earth which is in the two pin 12V plug...

As a side note... Does anyone know what the pick of replacement coils are? The genuine Bosch doesn't exist I'm told... No name aftermarket bugs me (seeing a genuine Bosch died out of the box)... Does anyone know if MSD or ICE or someone make a coil compatible for these cars with a TFI? I'd have thought the MSD coil for the Ford Windsor would be ok as they ran a TFI... I heard once the primary resistance or impedance can cause issues if it is not suited to the rest of the ignition system? If I can do that I'll mount a Windsor MSD coil under there and modify the bracket and wiring to accept that...

Thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated here... Who runs what? V8 guys would be good to hear from too please?

Cheers,
Tim

the genuine coil was replaced with this, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-Igniti ... 35b08b46ca
uses the same plug, i have one on mine and ive mounted mine to the top ac pump bolt...

well good good work Tim, should make it a bit easier to get to know

cheers, bear