i think cranking roate is called "cold crank" and goes from 0-100 %
And yes, the ems does have a temp (water/air) compensation. It goes up in 10* blocks.

czn you please explain the last parragraph more?
"When setting up your base tune you would have had to set the cranking rate... turning the motor over and slowly adding fuel until it starts cleanly then dies."

ive already set 80% of the map, maby i should start off with a blank/new map and get the crank sorted then transfer the info onto my map???

Cold cranking is just Cranking fuel rate, this value isnt temp related, the temp related part is the Idle fuel rate, this is effected by the Cold Enrichment feature which is a separate funtion to Temperature Compensation.
When your setting your base map, say at the very first start up of the ecu install job, the first thing you need to do is set the Cranking fuel rate, but remeber this is affected by the Cold Enrichment, but you need to set this to zero as you cant set it until you have the Cranking fuel rate set.
So your sitting there cranking the motor over, as it cranks over, you slowly increase the cranking value until it fires, then quickly dies. Next up you need to set the Idle fuel rate, set the Cold Enrichment to 50% and figure out where the motor is going to idle. You will be able to see this as you crank the motor, the idle point will be when it tries to idle at, but dies, and find the LOAD point which is the max rpm the motor reaches befor it dies... mine is 37% So find this LOAD value and set the injector to 1 ms and start cranking again. It should fire and idle a bit longer then die again. Increase the injector 2 more steps ( to 1.5 ms approx) and crank again... keep redoing this sequence until it fires and idles, it will most likely idle rough but your just trying to get it to idle to start off with. Once idling you can adjust all the LOAD points around the idle rpm/load until the idle is smooth
if its still not firing and idling increase the Cold Enrichment and start the process again... my cold enrichment is at 25% ( you adjust this next time your starting it cold if its stating and idling very rich, just reduce the Cold enrich until it idles somewhere near 14:1 or stops blowing clouds of smoke ), so once the motor up to temp ( over 70deg) the cold enrich cuts out and it idles only on the value you have entered (ms)

ahh k i gots ya now

I have a Cold crank feature (im guessing is the same as cold enrichment), temp compensation( which ya give her a lil more fuel when cold to keep her smooth) and i also have the fuel grid cells to tune for the key start itself...

from what chef told me i should aim for around 7ms on key start, which im about to try rite now. And i have also been informed by some efi "dude" the i should try around 5deg more timng on key start then idle.... not 100% on this but ill try


ill keep ya posted

Dont forget that the 7ms on my motor is for my 550cc (50odd lb) injectors, not sure what yours are but Im assuming they are smaller so 7ms is most likely too much

hiya

I checked my ms on what i had to start with... 10-11ms!!!

mega!

so i stole some fuel away to get 7ms and it seemed better

It also may depend on the firing of the injectors too?
mine fire once every 720* not 360*

I also threw in a lil bit more timing and that helped too, starts ion about 2-3 sec now

stoked!!!!

Im running 24lb's, not quite 50's :p

What ms are you running at idle, just so i can get a clear pic on the differences ect in idlems/crank ms just to make sure

about 1.6ms at idle ( 3% duty )... Mine are running in 2 groups of 3 as per factory but I'm changing that to 3 goups of 2 soon

Maybe you only need 4ms cranking

hmm, mine are runing at about 3ms (ISH, i havent taken much notice of the ms before, no need to) @ idle. It is also at 3% duty

what is the advantage of 2x3?
and does yours fire on 360* or 720*(kinda like sequential) coz i think this would have a huge bearing on the MS ect...

3ms for idle on yours is most likely fine, as its twice what mine need due to my injs being about twice the size
I wouldnt say there is an advantage running the injs 2 x 3, I just did it this way for sake of easy wiring--- using the stock wiring harnes and injector relays. I want to change this to 3 groups of 2 so that on low rpm it wont have 3 big injectors trying to spray at once. This way is fine for smaller injectors as when I ran it with the stock injectors it was easier to get a very smooth idle and low speed cruise

Firing 360 or 720? Not sure about this, but I will look into it as I never even had the option when I first set it up... accually it may be in the 4,6,8 or rotary dip switches... better look into this

yeah, ems just relaesed this (i think) at the same time as the sequential, for the ppl who cbf wiring every injector seperate

basicly does the same as sequential but in groups

Full sequential injection wont effect max power but it can make for a much more streetable and effient tune... definatly worth doing if your ecu will allow... I have to settle for batch fire

ems said there was a minimal gain between the 720 and sequential, i have to send my ecu back to them if i want to upgrade to sequential....cbf

All sorted!

Firstly i got the car to normal temp. Turned off cold crank(this adds extra fuel at key start when cold).

turn car off... Left it a min, then started it. Wasnt 100% so i gave it a lil more fuel. Heaps better!
So from here i could tune the cold crank. This morning i started with 50% CC. Did start better then b4 but not perfect. so i gave it 60% and "broooomh!"
Starts awsome now

*stoked

NIce work mate