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| evxr6 |
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Hi guys,
On these really hot days there has been an alarming smell of fuel coming through the vents. I first noticed it on saturday when I drove to Goulburn and back. It was fine cruising along the Hume but, when stationary there is the smell. Only happens on fresh air, not re-circ. When I got home I immediately checked the fuel lines under the bonnet and there were no obvious leaks and no real smell. I left it for a couple of hours and there was no sign of it. Any ideas? Cheers, -Evan
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| Gab1 |
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Check your fuel cap, sometimes they dont vent properley.
Gab |
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| GeZza200 |
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make sure exhaust manifold is nice and tight and look for an exhaust leak.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| evxr6 |
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Gab1 wrote: Check your fuel cap, sometimes they dont vent properley. Gab I was reading up on the charcoal canister and thought it might be a possibility. The (gregorys) service manual says that the fuel cap is sealed. GeZza200 wrote: make sure exhaust manifold is nice and tight and look for an exhaust leak. I tightened them a couple of weeks ago. But, it's a raw fuel smell, not burnt.
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| SWC |
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Charcoal Canister, check the hoses from it to the manifold.
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| evxr6 |
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SWC wrote: Charcoal Canister, check the hoses from it to the manifold. Seems to be the general consensus. When I was driving it on Sat I had this in the back of my mind: 
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| sexyr6 |
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the Charcoal canister purge solenoid is stuffed, easy enough to change takes about 5 minutes.
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| TimmyA |
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^^^ As above... they are really prone to it.... Remove it and power it up of a spare battery... If it don't click then she's cactus... If it does click make sure air can be sucked the wrong way through it (the "lower" barb)...
Seen both cases where the coil goes open circuit and the pin on the end of the solenoid snaps... I got the one jaycar sell for $20 and got some short bits of rubber hose and some plastic size adaptors and fitted it real easy on the ED... Cut the wires off the factory one and solder to the jaycar one... They're getting harder to find second hand in good order now and new from ford they were 2 or 300 bucks and I don't know if they're still available... If you get really stuck I can get photos... But fairly self explanatory... Bit harder to retro fit on EF/EL with the sill hard plastic lines they have... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| evxr6 |
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TimmyA wrote: ^^^ As above... they are really prone to it.... Remove it and power it up of a spare battery... If it don't click then she's cactus... If it does click make sure air can be sucked the wrong way through it (the "lower" barb)... Seen both cases where the coil goes open circuit and the pin on the end of the solenoid snaps... I got the one jaycar sell for $20 and got some short bits of rubber hose and some plastic size adaptors and fitted it real easy on the ED... Cut the wires off the factory one and solder to the jaycar one... They're getting harder to find second hand in good order now and new from ford they were 2 or 300 bucks and I don't know if they're still available... If you get really stuck I can get photos... But fairly self explanatory... Bit harder to retro fit on EF/EL with the sill hard plastic lines they have... Cheers, Tim Awesome, there is an easy solution. I just went out into the oven and checked the lines. They look all good. Is it this one? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SS0905
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| TimmyA |
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sure is... you saved my laziness... check the old one first if you want... I'd nearly back it in...
they have a direction too... picture a rubber disc sitting on top of the downward barb... the solenoid pulls it up... so if you put enough vacuum on the side barb it will lift the rubber disc seal thing up and cause unintentional flow... The one in the car is the same... One side barb is slightly lower, one slightly higher... apple the same principal... sure the lower one is hooked to the motor and as such the downward pointing one on this bloke is hooked to the motor side... The barbs on this bloke are smaller... The auto shop had some barb size adaptors made out of hard plastic for like a dollar each... some smaller vac hose and I was set... no issues ever since... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| evxr6 |
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Update.
Don't you just hate it when the thing you were hoping was broken works perfectly. I tested the solenoid with a spare battery and it works. I can blow through it and everything. Drove home and tested voltage at the plug and the best I could get was 10 volts between the pins. On consultation of the service manual, both wires go to the ECU. The red one goes to pin #5 which looks like 12v constant when the ignition is on. The yellow/blue wire goes to pin #31, which must be the switched negative. So bottom line is that I don't think that it is operating when connected to the car power. Any ideas, because I am so over this car at the moment, it's not funny...
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| TROYMAN |
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try plugging the hose and see if the fuel smell goes away, also check if your injectors are weeping past the o rings...
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| evxr6 |
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I just took the carbon canister out. Are they meant to reek of fuel? Because, after driving on a hot day there was petrol odor eminating from the passenger side mud guard.
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| benryanau |
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Yes, the canister will smell of fuel, cause it holds the vapours. The fuel cap is sealed though it does have a safety pressure valve.
At least on later models, the ECU opens the vacuum solenoid to the canister under certain conditions to purge the can.. but it's closed when idling or key-off. Purge at idle would upset the mixtures, and having it open with engine off could cause explosive mixtures in the engine bay. Anyways.. So you're saying the canister solenoid is working fine when tested with direct connection to +12v and ground? And that your readings show 10v from the solenoid plug? Not sure bout the EB but I know later models don't usually open the valve at idle, so that might be throwing you off. ECU might also use PWM on the solenoid, making readings difficult. I'd actually test with a low-wattage (5w?) light bulb across the plug, on a lead running into the cabin. You can see then if there's decent power delivered out of the plug under driving conditions. The bulb will indicate healthy current flow (or not), whereas just voltage readings don't mean squat when it comes to driving a solenoid. Don't just disconnect/block the lines or pull the canister! That system isn't just for ecological reasons.. it's a critical safety system. Plus it'll smell bad. |
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| evxr6 |
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Just quickly, is it at all possible that having a bad seal on the fuel filler cap could cause the fumes to be evacuated too quickly for the system to handle?
I checked the cap and the rubber is pretty hard and has a Ford logo on it, so is probably the 20 year old original... Thanks for everyone's input so far.
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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