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| Waggin |
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blownxr wrote: i have a dumb question, why didnt you use an adaptor harness??
Besides the fact they dont exist, good question  It would've made my life a bit easier, though the actual cutting and joining of the loom isnt the hard part.. the hard part is working out how to get Ford OEM sensors and triggers to work on the MoTeC
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| blownxr |
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sorry, but they do exist, and the only sesors that dont work from the factory wiring is the MAP the temp sensors......
but you already found that out |
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| Waggin |
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Its too late now, but out of interest where are these adapters available from? It would've saved me about an hour in cutting and soldering wires! I did have quite an extensive look around to see if anything existed, and when that failed spent a bit of time looking for the male 104pin EEC-V connector to make my own adapter, but that failed also.
Also looks like the HEGO wont work on the MoTeC, but that doesnt matter cos theres a Bosch Wideband on the way.
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| blownxr |
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did you try contacting MoTeC???
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| 4.9 EF Futura |
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What's the go with narrowband HEGO brad? All of motec's docos suggest that it has support for both narrowband and wideband...
I thought all narrowbands were created equal - 0.1 - 0.9v switching... or is problem with heating element control or something?...
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
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| Waggin |
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Heating element control is a breeze.. this can be done using an Aux output (which I still dont have pins for. LOL). There is a Heating Element mode which exists, and you can even set it up to start warming the element before the car is started, although the user is warned that it may decrease the life of the sensor - interesting!
The only support for narrowband is a sensor which returns 0-5V. I'll hook mine up and see what happens, but if its expecting 5V, good luck!
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| Waggin |
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blownxr wrote: did you try contacting MoTeC???
First port of call and they dont have any. On my way though I found an Engineer at MoTeC who is VERY helpful, and one of the few in there who has seen a MoTeC installed in a 4L Coilpack - very lucky!
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| Spork |
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On a slight side topic. Motec M4's are now $1950. Getting to be pretty good value. But does anyone know how much the various upgrade options are on the M4?
I had a look at the 8860 but looks dodgy against the motec. Still stinger is good value against a unichip or something. That M800 cost $3600! then you must of picked up a few options! Still should be cool if you end up getting stuff like traction control set up. I designed some wheel speed sensors for a F-SAE racecar. If you start doing traction control it gets pretty hard to set-up but keep at it. I recommend putting some really crap (but equally crap) wheels/tyres on your car (this makes it easy to get wheelspin) and taking it to a tuning day on a racetrack to get a basic set-up then put the good tyres back on and give it a fine tune. A good T/C setup will be faster than the best drivers - just look at formula 1! To save on inputs you can use the two front speed sensors and the gearbox output shaft sensor.
_________________ Manual EL Gli.
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| Waggin |
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Hey Mate,
I still think the 8860 is good value for money. M48 would drive a 4L or V8 falcon no problems, although can't do sequential injection, which for some people is an issue. Personally I like the idea of sequential, and naturally have configured mine for Sequential injection. Also driving the coilpack off a M48 could be interesting.. not sure if they have sufficient IGN outputs, and since i've got 6 ign outputs available, I'm considering doing coil on plug setup down the track, or atleast 6 coil. The ECU doesnt have any options on it except for the Enable code  Need to buy Wideband, Traction Control and 4MB Memory upgrade options.
I plan to use 1 front and 1 rear ABS sensor for traction control, should be accurate (unless of course I pull the front wheel/s off the ground, which isnt likely yet).It will have a locked diff, so only need the 1 sensorup back, unless I break the spool 
I'm sure tuning the traction control will be fun Any config tips??
Cheers Spork wrote: On a slight side topic. Motec M4's are now $1950. Getting to be pretty good value. But does anyone know how much the various upgrade options are on the M4?
I had a look at the 8860 but looks dodgy against the motec. Still stinger is good value against a unichip or something. That M800 cost $3600! then you must of picked up a few options! Still should be cool if you end up getting stuff like traction control set up. I designed some wheel speed sensors for a F-SAE racecar. If you start doing traction control it gets pretty hard to set-up but keep at it. I recommend putting some really crap (but equally crap) wheels/tyres on your car (this makes it easy to get wheelspin) and taking it to a tuning day on a racetrack to get a basic set-up then put the good tyres back on and give it a fine tune. A good T/C setup will be faster than the best drivers - just look at formula 1! To save on inputs you can use the two front speed sensors and the gearbox output shaft sensor.
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| Bert |
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Just in case you don't know, the EMS stinger does not do real-time tuning. What this means is that if you can't tune its gunna cost you a bit on the dyno. I have seen one tuned on the dyno it took quite a while and the car was driven in. Only 3/4 to full power was done and it took about 2 1/2 hours.
99% of the cars on the street don't need sequential. All it does pretty much is tame big injectors at idle, clean emissions, and give about a bees d**k more power. |
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| Waggin |
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Bert wrote: 99% of the cars on the street don't need sequential. All it does pretty much is tame big injectors at idle, clean emissions, and give about a bees d**k more power.
I need all the help I can get at idle to 1000rpm.. its a bit rough there.
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| SVO XR6 |
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i dont know much about the motec, but with mine i found the best way to get a lidle is to turn the idle controll off(isc goes to sleep) and get a nice rpm idle.
then get eveything else to atch the revs on decel or lower then idle. works better for cold start too dont listen to me too much coz im p****d 
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| Spork |
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You should really use two sensors on the front wheels otherwise you will get different responses when turning left or right. The rear ABS sensor would be more accurate but hooking it up to the gearbox speed sensor will probabily be just as good and easier.
For some tuning tips make sure you calibrate the sensors accurately. The motec help file has heaps on how to set the calibration factor. We found the best one was to measure how far the car went after 10 rotations of each wheel. (do seperately for the front and the back) Work out the number of pulses for 1 revolution of the tyre and then apply the formula. Then drive a bit and watch you slip angles. They will never be 0 but should be always within +- 5% when driving normally. Try doing a full lock turn in a carpark, record the slip angle and make sure you set your activation threshold above this. Ater that it's just tuning. If you give a wide range on the throttle table, ie you allow alot of slip at full throttle the car will feel more responsive to your inputs around corners but you will get excessive spin in a straight line, just tinker untill it 'feels right'. There is an optimum slip ratio for tyres where they make the most grip, it depends on lots of factors but it is generally between 8% and 15%. Try some internet research
_________________ Manual EL Gli.
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| MRE-50L |
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lol we have good news and bad news !
Brad can tell ya's later or when he logs in again 
_________________ Chance Favors The Prepared Mind ! |
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| ReGiE |
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good news = its runnig
bad news = i gotta spew ive had toomuch to drink tomight haha 
_________________ Gooooone - Eb2 Coon - 143RWKW |
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