Does anyone know what currently triggers the different fan speeds ??
I agree that 2 speeds would be sufficient

Engine Coolant Temp and A/C request

G'day

Would it be better to have both fans at half speed and then at full speed?

Just a thought.

Cheers

And Air cond fan speed as well I believe.

i am liking all this has anyone tried the hyenas way to share the sensor f you are just parralelling into it it should be ok i would think?

i got my edis6 module and got pics and studied the wiring diag for ef and i it should adapt easy yay i have figured out where every wire should be

OK so i finally got around to doing a bit more on my MS install...

After reading a bit more on the MS website I decided to flash up MS to the MSnS code (MSnSCodeExtra024s9) and the appropriate MegaTune (megatuneTFI225b417_024s9) and just run it in fuel only mode to begin with.
Just one thing to mention here is that my old laptop died so I'm running MS off a USB to Serial converter which comes up as COM4 and all works ok except for the auto flash utility in the MSnS update, it want's to see COM1 as the port. So I just flashed it on my desktop.

I've decided to try and keep the EEC running as much as I can and just get MS to run Fuel, Spark and Idle.
What that means for me is to share the TPS, IAT, CLT and PIP then have MS feed the Injectors, SPOUT and Idle.

So anyway the first thing is to get MS running along side EEC with both running happily, So I go with a somewhat temporary wiring loom (knowing that things are unlikely to go smoothly) and just splice into the sensor sig's that I need to share. (So don't go ragging on me about the mess of wires, they're all labelled and insulated..)



So on the sharing side of things here's how I did the sensors..

TPS: this is easy just tap into the TPS signal on the EEC and don't worry about the +5Vref. The just use MegaTune to read the Closed and WO throttle values..

CLT and IAT:: Well we discussed this above, so here's what I did..
After installing the new version of MegaTune I copied the CLT and IAT .ini files that were made by EasyTherm to the appropriate folder. Now I modded MS here by removing R4 and R7 turning the inputs into RAW ADC inputs and after getting it running along side the EEC it looks to be reading the temps accurately.
Here's a shot of megatune the main thing to look at is the temp, after idling for a while it sat around the 80deg mark with the dash temp reading normally. So I'm guessing I have an 80deg thermostat So the IAT should be reading correctly too!!!


HEGO: I'm not sure about sharing the O2 sensor of the EEC because I'm running a Wideband O2 sensor unit from Techedge, this one http://wbo2.com/2e0/default.htm which is sending a narrowband signal to the EEC and a wideband signal to MS.
I know my car runs fine with the O2 sensor disconnected from the EEC so MS might be able to have that for itself without upsetting the EEC too much.. The earth return is critical on the O2 sensor otherwise the 0-1V signal floats all over the place. (found out that through experience )

PIP: Now here is where I ran into a problem.. When I tried just clipping onto the PIP signal and feeding it into pin24 the TACH input, MS read the PIP and showed cranking pulses but the EEC did nothing so no start!!!!
So looking at this:

and luckily I had a CRO from work and found the optocoupler was sucking all the voltage off the line to the EEC (the pulse was about 3V) so I started to play around with the value of R10 but could either get the EEC to work and not MS or the other way around..
So I decided to whip up this little interface to stick on the PIP line to MS and not draw down the signal to the EEC.

At the moment it's just on a small piece of veroboard and spliced into to the lines to see if it would work (which it does ) I'll put that cct along with the SPOUT mod and the Idle mod onto a single board and mount it inside MS later on when alls working well.

So that's as far as I got this w/e, next step is to cut up the injector lines and get MS running those. So I'll have to sit down this week and go over the tuning section of the MS website so I'm not stabbing in the dark too much!!

Awesome!
So you ended up getting the car running in the end with the MS half connected ? (but not actually doing anything ?)

The coil issues sound a little daunting! Being a V8 I assume you're running a single coil and dizzy vs coil packs ?


Put your cluster into dash diagnostics mode and it'll tell you in degrees what temperature you're running at. Maybe try unplugging the splice into the MS while it's hooked up and see if the temp signal going to the dash and/or MS change. This will confirm what temp you're actually running at, and if by sharing the sensors you're throwing the accuracy out of whack


I won't get a chance to get back into mine until the xmas holidays, but then I'm going to knuckle down and hopefully get it all running happily
I'm glad you're doing alot of the trouble shooting up front!

can someone please explain to me what this megasquirt thing does?

On the first one: I have MS reading all the sensors it needs to operate, I just haven't connected up the Injectors, Spark control or idle control.
So driving around today the car was running on the EEC but MS was sitting there happily thinking it was doing something as well. All the readings via Megatune look spot on.

On No.2: I've got the TFI module on the dizzy so I'll be making that ignition mod, and other than having to stick in a few more transistors and resistors into MS it looks to be pretty easy. (getting MS to read the PIP signal was the tough bit)

So from a bit of playing around today, having MS running piggyback or unplugged makes no difference to how the car runs or how any of the guages read... So I'm chuffed with that.. hehe.



On that one the easiest thing to do is look here http://www.megasquirt.info/index.html
It'll save me a lot of typing.

NFGhia:

nice work, glad you took the step with splicing into the temp wires.. now i'm not going into unchartered territory!!

Since i have a MSII i dont need to use easytherm.. i just go into megatune and punch in the numbers for the sensors.. you wouldn't happen to have these handy would ya? that is...

eec-iv bias resistor (you have an eec-iv, mine might be different?)
temp sensor values... should be the same.

Great work, i was gonna make a loom but i think im just gonna cut into my loom and mount a terminal strip somewhere.. i can always solder wires backtogether and heat shrink em.. !!

i am the same "im gonna make a lume " but i never do i think i will do a terminal strip to lol

only thing i am worried about, is the table going to be refined enough with 12x12 if you work it out to 5500 it equals about every 470rpm it refreshes

that is the same as wolf version 3 but is it good enough wat is the eecv refresh rate?

sorry if this is in wrong thread

I pulled the values out of the Ford manual but the easytherm numbers I used are at the start of this thread.



For the sensors that i'm sharing I just shaved off some insulation from the EEC wires, soldered the MS plug up and wrapped a bit of elec'y tape around it. And I'm using that pluggable terminal strip for the wires I have to cut apart. But these are just to make it easier to stick a probe in there and check things as I go..
For the finished product I think I might use PC power connector plugs or even look into mounting MS into the stock EEC box.
But first!!! get it all working..

ahhh i see

that actually sounds even better

good-o.. depending on what goes on this weekend i'll probably be hooking up my MSII in the same fashion as you (sensor reading only)

Where'd you run your vacuum hose? existing hole or a new one?

Hahaha!! That was fun.

I had a look for any vac lines under the dash on the passenger side that I could tap into But Ford did a good job on hiding everything under there.
Also in my engine bay all the vac lines that run through to the cabin go through some kind of valve connector (possibly to stop heater control leaks affecting the engine???) and not having a vac gauge on the dash I thought I'd tap into a line that runs straight to the inlet manifold.
So I drilled a hole through to between the guard and door and ran the hose through to the engine bay. Not real neat and tidy but functional.



And all this is somewhat temporary cause I've got an old 302 that I'm doing a 347 stroker to which will be on gas and I want to re-spray her so while the donks out I'll spray the bay and rerout everything nice and neat.