|
TFORD8 |
|
|||
|
The plan is a 351, stroked, im wanting to fit parts that will work well with what ive got now, and transfer across to the 351 later on too...
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
|||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
In that case I'd go the TFS or the AFR185's.
|
||
Top | |
TFORD8 |
|
|||
|
Cool, so I was on the right path.
How does the 1/4horse work?
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
|||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
|||
Top | |
TFORD8 |
|
|||
|
Cheers.
_________________ EF2 XR8 Lowered on Genuine EL GT 17", Slotted + Drilled all round, Custom retrimmed ghia interior, competition stereo, DiFillipo headers, hi-flow cats, single muffler 3", K&N, custom maf/induction and rear window venetian |
|||
Top | |
wild-el |
|
||
|
Im just wondering is it worth buy the gt40p heads for the el v8 or am i better off taking off original heads and going and getting some port work done? Whats best? Because ive got a good set of gt40's that have popped up for sale but not sure whats better value for money???
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
If the 40P's that have popped up are cheap as chips it would be better to port them than the E7 heads but, they better be only about a 100 bucks because the cost of porting etc means you're better off buying some ally heads. I'd go straight for the ally heads in any case.
|
||
Top | |
wild-el |
|
||
|
XR9UTE wrote: If the 40P's that have popped up are cheap as chips it would be better to port them than the E7 heads but, they better be only about a 100 bucks because the cost of porting etc means you're better off buying some ally heads. I'd go straight for the ally heads in any case. how much would porting cost for both heads?
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
||
Top | |
wild-el |
|
||
|
Or would it just be more cost effective to do this?
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/190508507567
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
wild-el wrote: XR9UTE wrote: If the 40P's that have popped up are cheap as chips it would be better to port them than the E7 heads but, they better be only about a 100 bucks because the cost of porting etc means you're better off buying some ally heads. I'd go straight for the ally heads in any case. how much would porting cost for both heads? Call a head shop. |
||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
wild-el wrote: Nope. |
||
Top | |
Zombiehead19 |
|
||
|
XR9UTE wrote: Here's a list of things I would do to a 5.0L HO engine without delving deep into the engine straight off the bat. You don't of course have to do them in this order but it is a kind of logical order. 1. Remove hotplate off the top of the engine and throw away. 2. Remove distributor boot. 3. Bump your base timing to 32-34 degrees(depends on fuel and the vehicle itself). 4. Adjust your TPS to 0.98volts. 5. Make/modifiy or add a cold air box. 6. Quality(ie not topgun) ignition leads and spark plugs properly gapped. 7. Underdrive pulleys. 9. EF/EL thermofans(for EB-D of course) 10. Multi spark ignition. 11. 65mm(max 70mm) T-body and EGR spacer(machine intake throat to match EGR spacer and blend in) 12. While upper intake is off you could lift the rocker covers and fit 1.7 rockers 13. Now is a good time to fit a phenolic spacer(a 3/8" - 1/2" one is all you need) 14. Headers 1 5/8" primaries(No Bigger!) 15. 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" twin exhaust 16. Bore your 55mm MAF to 58ish mm or easier still use a 70mm AU MAF body with your 55mm hotwire. 17. Electronic tuning(ideally you would revert your base timing to stock before you start) 18. Think about changing your fuel pump (don't go straight for a 255Lph if you don't actually need it) I won't go into everything here but Read and understand all of this and I won't have to..... http://www.fordracingparts.com/download ... aptors.pdf 17. Think about changing injectors (check injector duty at full noise to check how close you're getting to 85%) At this point you could think about going inside the engine but you could also do some mild exhaust side porting while the heads are still on the engine. Just undo your rocker gear to shut the exhaust valves and use plenty of compressed air to clean it out. After this I'd be changing heads first then the intake, then maybe, the cam. Remember the stock cam is actually very good. I would go straight to aftermarket alloy heads. In my opinion, 40p's are a stop gap measure at best. Sorry if this seems obvious, but what exactly does bumping the base timing do for the engine/performance? Cheers |
||
Top | |
XR9UTE |
|
||
|
Zombiehead19 wrote: Sorry if this seems obvious, but what exactly does bumping the base timing do for the engine/performance? Cheers Can give you approx 5-7lb/ft and about 10hp |
||
Top | |
millview1941 |
|
||
|
Vic wrote: I, like many other forum members, see a lot of new V8 owners ask what is the easiest or cheapest or best bang-for-buck mods they can do to their car. Usually these questions have been asked numerous times before and a search of the V8 category will bring up all the responses and results. However to save time, perhaps we can provide some of the most basic mods previously covered that will increase your power output. If you have a bog standard A-series, B-series, E-series, X-series or any of their Fairlane counterparts then two of the easiest mods are; 1. Install a CAI ( Cold Air Intake ) to increase the volume of air being fed to your engine. Total cost has typically been $30 - $50. 2. Install headers and / or a cats back & exhaust. On a stock engine, usually a single 2½" mandrel bent exhaust will do it or if you want, a twin 2¼" mandrel bent exhaust. Total cost here can vary but has typically been between $700 - $2,000 depending on brand and if you install it yourself or have it fitted. These two mods don't require any changes to your ECU as it is able to adjust itself accordingly.
If you have more coin and the desire then you can get more serious. For example the stock Windsor V8 from any E-series model is quite asthmatic when it comes to breathing due to the combination of factory cylinder heads & intake manifold design. To resolve this restrictive breathing, you can replace and install a variety of better performing items, either singly or altogether, such as;
Heads Cam TB ( throttle body ) RR's ( Roller rockers - ratio depending on cam and lift ) Fuel injectors - which may require an upgraded fuel pump depending on inj size. Custom tune - to get the most out of any of these upgrades. Intake manifold - a basic upgrade is any of the GT40 family of intake manifolds such as the Explorer, Cobra / GT40 tubular. ( approx $300+, depending on choice and availability ). Aftermarket manifolds are highly popular such as Edelbrock, Trickflow etc. ( $1,000+ ) Throttle body - this depends on your choice of intake manifold and any other flow restrictions but traditionally 65mm and upwards will increase airflow / volume into the manifold & heads. ( $150 ~ $350) Better heads can be anything from the basic factory GT-40P's ( approx $500, S/H ) to full aftermarket heads from AFR, Edelbrock, Trickflow etc etc. ( $1,000 ~ $2,000+, S/H to brand new ) * You would also need to take into account the additional cost of the valve train that goes with them if they are bare heads and also take into account whether you need to change headers to fit the heads. Camshaft - can increase lift and duration which of course increases overall hp. ( Regrinds approx $130+ to new billet cams approx $350+ ) Roller rockers - will reduce friction and load which frees up horsepower. The ratio of roller rockers depends entirely upon your cam & head choices. ( $400 ~ $600 ) Under drive pulleys - these can reduce the power required by the engine to run the accessories, thereby freeing up engine hp and allowing the engine to rev more easily. Installing these may provide you with another 5 ~ 10kw gain. ( $285+ ) Fuel injectors - with a combination of the upgrades listed above, you'll find you need to deliver more fuel to get the most out of your motor's new increase in air volume. However you should note that increasing fuel injector size means you will have to ensure that the fuel pump can deliver and that the ECU is adjusted for the increased flow rate, otherwise your car will run like a pig - if at all. ( $150+ for a S/H set or hundreds more for a new set of injectors ) ECU / Custom tune - getting your upgrades to perform to their maximum will require the car's tune to be adjusted. There are many ways to tune your car, J3 chip, Sniper, Moates Quarter Horse, EMS, Haltech, Megasquirt, Microtec, MoTec, Wolf etc etc. Costs can range from $200 ~ $2000+ to purchase a system and dyno tune it for maximum gain.
Where can I get a cold air unit for my AU2 V8 Fairlane????? |
||
Top | |
EFFALCONMAN |
|
||
|
Evening all,
I have a question regarding making a hybrid AU2/AU3 XR8 motor. I currently have a series 2 XR8, with the 200kw donk. I have an opportunity to get a hand on a 220kw motormfrom a wrecking XR or at least as many components as I choose. I initially have my eye on the Tickford branded throttle body, do I need to take the MAF and airbox pipjng as well to make life easier?. im also thinking of taking the heads from the series 3 XR motor, how would these components hook up to my AU2 XR cam, rods and block? Extractors? Both motors are running factory items. Finally engine management, if this Franken combo works, would standard AU2 XR engine management handle this? My current motor is fine, the possible AU3 has a busted harmonic balancer and bottom end is unknown. The yop end components look good, im just curious what is worth getting my hands on to enhance my series 2. I wouldn't fit the heads until I have the funds to fit/purchasestroker kit as well as replace rear seal (starting to leak). However the throttle body and MAF might get bolted straight in if an easy addition. cheers guys. DJ
_________________ Too many Fords and too much cash "invested" over the years. |
||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests |