i think your on the wrong track here...
smartlock is merely an immboliser, it has nothting to do with interior light delays etc.
yes, half of "smartlock" is incorporated into the BCM but all it does is looks for a valid key and acts accordingly.

most aftermarkey alarms/immobs will run the interior light same as the factory bcm and have an option to give you a delay on close of door


this wont be required as with an aftermarket system, you will no longer need or will be using the std ford remote (unless you use an "upgrade" alarm which keeps your stock remote)

You let the aftermarket system control everything, however you need to bypass the 'power saver' function of the bcm if you want to open the boot etc with your aftermarket system.

Dont trust a chinese system to do what you want it to do, theres nothing to stop it from unlocking and starting the car when the cars unattended. (also the ones on ebay are not blackwired, and they publically post the wiring diagrams!!)
I would keep the stock ign barrel in its place and use a start button to only trigger the starter. In this case - think of your key as an isolator switch.

That sounds just about perfect.
Let's see if I've got this...
On unlock the latching relay gives interior light control to the BEM, at the same time as the SPST relay acts like a door switch and triggers the light.
On lock, the latching relay cuts the return to the BEM and forcibly shuts off the light.

This would require separate door switches to sense entry wouldn't it?

Pretty much correct - lock & unlock lines control latching relay, unlock line controls the SPST relay for that momentary earth (which essentially acts like a door courtesy switch). Door switches remain untouched - remember they join and go to the BEM, as does the return line from the interior lights. They are the same colour (blue/black), so don't get them confused.
For the boot, probably best to retain the EFII/EL timeout on boot power - from memory, boot switch provides 12v to the solenoid, earth is already there ? You could have the alarm giving 12v to the line. I think most alarms are setup for earth on the boot.

Of course... I was confused in my head about what the latching relay does, thinking it cut the doors as well as the light. Makes perfect sense now.

For the boot I didn't mean totally remove the BEM from it (but that wouldn't be hard either, but the security of the timeout is a valuable feature though), but have the alarm work around it in a way that the timeout didn't affect it.

All you have to do is splice the alarm boot line to the boot solenoid power.

As I say, many alarms assume this is an earth control - open your alarm module, and mod the relay to give out 12v.

The boot timeout isn't too hard to beat - to reset, remove the CRT LP fuse, and put it back in.

if your not concerned about interior light delay being active when you lock the car, you do not need to mess around with latching relays etc etc, just let the BCM do its job and wire the alarm/immob into the back of BCM. Its really not all that hard

I don't know where you and I seem to be getting mixed up.
First you suggest the smartlock bypass when I already stated that I had it covered, then you suggested that I go for starter operation only for the start button when I clearly said I want 100% keyless, and now this.

Just to clarify, I am concerned with the interior light delay.

well as an auto elec i am looking at it from an installer point of view,
in any case, i'll leave you to it then.

What do you mean "installer point of view"? Is that code for "it's too hard, we'll do it our way"?

I would have thought, as an installer, you should do what the customer wants, or give the job to someone else.

no mate as an installer, I know how the BCM operates and how to hang an aftermarket system off the back of it. ie I know how to get aftermarket systems to deal with interior light delays etc without too much external hardware. The more relays and external hardware you install, the less reliable it will be as there are more components prone to failure.

In regards to fitting a system like the one you want to fit, yes, personally I will give that job to someone else mate, someone who doesnt care about the paying customers vehicle security, because I will not compromise a customers cars security just so they can unlock their doors by proximity, and push a button to start it.

Trust me when I say i've seen chinese electronics do all sorts of random stuff like unlock doors overnight, wireless controllers operating electric winches automatically causing damage to the vehicle and winch overnight.

95% of the systems on the market with PKE are chinese. 99% of those have NO QUALITY CONTROL.

My customers pay me to make their cars more secure, not less secure.

I haven't spent a lot of time pawing over the BEM schematics yet as I haven't chosen an alarm.

How do you go about getting the alarm to work together with the interior light?
Does it work as per factory? (On with 'unlock', off with 'lock', and turn on with the interior light switch)

And how do you get lower spec alarms to blip the siren or horn when you try to lock the car by remote with a door not properly closed ??

i thought got guys alerady had that sorted? lol

both of what you asked are easily doable,
theres more than one way to handle the interior light depending on what system you install.
Beeping the siren on door or boot or bonnet open is also not a problem with any system that controls central locking

Someone has it sorted, I'm the one chasing the answers.
The only stuff I'm sorted on at the moment is bypassing smartlock, and getting around the boot release timeout.

You didn't answer either of my questions.
I can understand not answering the first one if you have a trade secret you don't wish to give away.
But you didn't answer my second question either. Let's base this answer on a high feature non-upgrade alarm.