Hi all, I'm making a stand alone loom for a AU XR6 Tickford motor, I have power going to constant and and i take it the smart lock eliminator is what switches the ecu on? Also are the injectors in these fired by negative or a positive trigger from the ecu? As the loom I started with was hacked to hell by the idiot wrecker so trying to piece it back togethor. Its a customers car and has to be at the track tomorrow for start the season check or it aint going on the track this season, really need to get it sorted asap.. any help would be greatly appreciated in gettingnthis loom sorted, would of been a hell of alot easier if wasnt so cut up.. first ford loom I've made so just want to get it right first time around.

Your good with Power - which you would have picked up from a squarish connector at the "front" of the "car" harness where the ABS plugs in. That same Harness has the main earth for the Injectors and ISC etc.

There is a signal earth near the ECU - that just gets screwed down with the ECU bracket.

The ECU has an ignition feed to switch it on, then (seperately) waits for smartshield or smartlock to enable the starter and injectors. you need to bypass smartshield or smartlock normally using either an ECU flash, or a J3 chip.

The Injectors are fed Common Power, and switched to earth (Negative trigger)

Nigel

All that had been hacked off the loom, i can find a constant power on ecu pinout but no ignition power, i presumed the smartlock eliminator turned it on, although it is swit hed threw main switch as its a race car i am getting power at injectors so guessing ecu powering up, the other side of the injector plug that doesnt follow threw to ecu is red what im presuming is a power? It comes into a cmommon wire with a few other sensors. The other coulors, ie brown, white and black go threw to ecu.

Do you know what colour the main earth signal to injectors in the loom is by chance? Also, can the smart lock eliminator be turned on ad same time with ecu? (Same power wire as main to ecu) or does it need to go on after, sorry not familiar with ford ecu's. Done hundreds of others

If your using a smartlock eliminator, it can go on at same time as ECU. The ECU will unlock once it sees the smartlock signal so theres no issue there.

there isnt a main earth to the injectors. I believe a (pink) or red wire is the main power (12v) wire

Black with (dont quote me, but white or brown trace) and fairly large is the main earth for the ISC, AC and a few other things. The main Earth doesnt go to the ECU - its in the longest part of the main harness and actually goes to the front of the car along with the Thermo Fan Wires. and Main Power, as well as another connector which has the ABS/Traction Control Wiring

There are wiring diagrams available on FordForums, as long as youve joined. The Diagrams there are straight off the Ford WDS and are accurate, but you arent able to save them at full resolution (you might be able to use snipping tool to capture the screen if your lucky)

Nigel

Hmmmm, it seams i have it pretty right then, so the fairly decent size red wire i found cut and when tested was too injectors and few other sensors should be constant 12v then? I thought this being red and common sense of i jectors needing power and the ecu usually firing negative pulses to trigger them and the obvious other sensors will be sending a vaultage to the ecu

Pretty much.

Ive translated the AU to a BMW E36, and in spite of the time taken (nice integration), it wasnt too hard.

Haha that will be cool, so what pins exactly do i run constant power too? I pretty much only have the bit of loom from ecu to sensors, everything else was hacked, had no front plug and stuff for the corner for fans and power points you are referring to so its made my life a nightmare having such a butchered loom. I have a decent ecu pinput just really need to know what ones need constant power, ecu seems to be turning on cause im getting battery vaultage at injectors from it, just cant get nothing firing or pulsing.

thanks heaps for helping though

This might help...