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| phongus |
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Hello everyone
Having some intermittent issue with the CC on the EL. Has been working fine until this morning on my way to work. Usually it's the case of brake switch broken, however this one I found odd. When switching the CC on, the "Cruise" light displays on the dash. I then press the "+" key to set the speed and nothing happened. Turned the CC back off and on again, pressed the "+" again and this time, the CC light just turns off. Couldn't turn CC back on until about a minute or so of driving. Tried again and same thing, CC light displays, press "+" and off it goes again. Seems like something is tripping out every time I try to set it. Could the CC unit be broken and turn itself off when overloaded? IE something is stuck and not allowing the CC unit to turn/operate properly? Haven't checked the fuse, but I would have thought the CC light wouldn't display if the fuse is blown.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 Last edited by phongus on Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| snap0964 |
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Does the horn work Phong ?
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Does the horn work Phong ? Yes horn works fine, sorry forgot to mention that. I tested the horn as soon as it failed and it worked just fine, so I ruled out clock spring. Stupid thing fixed itself on the way home from work last night and worked fine this morning. I hate intermittent electricals!
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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How old id the brake switch?
Check it, sometimes they move slightly and cause the cruise to play up. Still allows you to turn on the cruise but not engage it. Had this issue myself once, used a cable tie to zip the switch in a good spot. All worked fine after that. |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: How old id the brake switch? Check it, sometimes they move slightly and cause the cruise to play up. Still allows you to turn on the cruise but not engage it. Had this issue myself once, used a cable tie to zip the switch in a good spot. All worked fine after that. Yeah switch is working fine. I would have thought it was the switch or something, but it completely turns the CC off when I tried to set the speed. The light on the dash would just switch off. I'll have a look around to see what might be wrong when it happens next. Cheers.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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Disconnect/reconnect the cruise unit plug in the engine bay, be careful not to break the plastic fingers.
Do the same with the pressure switch on the master cyl - press the retainers to remove the plug. This switch affects cruise the same way as the brake pedal switch.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TedW |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: How old id the brake switch? Check it, sometimes they move slightly and cause the cruise to play up. Still allows you to turn on the cruise but not engage it. Had this issue myself once, used a cable tie to zip the switch in a good spot. All worked fine after that. Yeah switch is working fine. I would have thought it was the switch or something, but it completely turns the CC off when I tried to set the speed. The light on the dash would just switch off. I'll have a look around to see what might be wrong when it happens next. Cheers. bridge switch on master cylinder and retest operation (faulty switch was a common fault) supplies power to module - NOTE.make sure nothing is around when testing as sometimes you need to cancel with on/off switch........ |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Disconnect/reconnect the cruise unit plug in the engine bay, be careful not to break the plastic fingers. Do the same with the pressure switch on the master cyl - press the retainers to remove the plug. This switch affects cruise the same way as the brake pedal switch. Thank you snap. I'll give that a shot once my dashboard goes back in...bloody clutch pin broke and now in the process of fixing and strengthening pedal box. Not having a good run with my car at the moment...sigh
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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These era of cars are getting on Phong - clutch setups, pedal box, etc, will usually need some reworking. There are a few posts on the pedalbox, and my tech doco. The clevis on the top of the pedal will give way eventually too. A harder clutch will cause these things, hence why I've nearly finished my hydraulic conversion.
While you have the dash out, a good opportunity to take out and service the heaterbox. Fix the recirc flap, demist/feet flaps - these both break over time. Flyscreen on the recirc box to keep leaves out of the fan, heater core solder joins fracture over time with hose changes, the blend door motor over drives the blend door, so it breaks over time, and so on.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: These era of cars are getting on Phong - clutch setups, pedal box, etc, will usually need some reworking. There are a few posts on the pedalbox, and my tech doco. The clevis on the top of the pedal will give way eventually too. A harder clutch will cause these things, hence why I've nearly finished my hydraulic conversion. While you have the dash out, a good opportunity to take out and service the heaterbox. Fix the recirc flap, demist/feet flaps - these both break over time. Flyscreen on the recirc box to keep leaves out of the fan, heater core solder joins fracture over time with hose changes, the blend door motor over drives the blend door, so it breaks over time, and so on. I hear you. Things are starting to die and there has been a pattern of breakages recently  . I have had a look at the tech doco and other posts about fixing it. Just getting the pin bent back, welded and then a reinforced bar welded to hold it all nice and tight. I have had the clevis break before so it has been replaced and I have a spare in the boot just in case. Would love to try a hydraulic conversion, although out of reach at the moment with new born and nappies to pay for!I am going to have a look at the recirc flap, it is good, but the vacuum actuator thing is leaking vacuum and I need to fix that. Everything else seems to work fine so far so I hope the things can hold out for a little longer! Thanks for your help and advise, I will fix as much as I can while the dash is out, but need to car sooner than later.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| phongus |
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Instead of starting a new thread I thought I'd continue/update on this.
Driving home from work yesterday, car was fine. Drove to work this morning and the CC wouldn't work again. I had just replaced the brake light switch 2 or so weeks ago with a brand new one because I thought it was the issue, however after plugging the new one in, the CC didn't immediately work until I wiggled the wires a little. After that I thought maybe the wires were loose and just left it since I had no issues. Since it happened again, I wiggled the wires again and got nothing. So now I am wondering if my brake light switches are burning out 1) How do I check if the switches are still good? Am I checking for a continuity of the two pins and discontinuity when the switch is pushed? 2) If it is breaking, could it be due to a short, or should a fuse be blown before the switch? (I will check fuse during morning tea) 3) I am currently discovering my boot lid is leaking a lot of water through spoiler holes. Could the LED brake lights on the spoiler be shorting and causing issues with the switch? Sorry for the many questions. Thanks in advance.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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Well what's the fault ? Cruise caption comes on, but won't hold speed again ?
The brake switch needs to close to cancel cruise, otherwise it'll have no effect on that system.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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Sorry, at work and didn't get to check things until I got back.
Cruise light on dash does not come on when ON is pressed. Pressing +/- does not set cruise speed. So light bulb behind Cruise on dash should be good. Brake lights are not working either, so I checked the brake switch using multimeter. No continuity when at rest, when pedal is pressed, multimeter changes to show continuity (Changes from 0.L to 000.1). There is 12V at the plug that goes into switch. Checked the fuse, fuse is fine, however no voltage shows when pedal is at rest or pressed. Unplugged fuse and found the plastic around the contacts were melted. Checked voltage directly from the contacts which read 12V. Swapped fuses around and still no voltage when fuse is plugged in. So it looks like I need to either bend the contacts in the fuse slot to make sure there is contact, or pull the whole fuse box out to fix and replace the contacts. Is it possible to pull the fuse box out without pulling the dash...I don't feel like pulling the dash out again anytime soon to replace the contacts and fix the melted plastics! So in conclusion I think the contacts at the fuse box are kaput and will need attention. I remember it smoking a long long time ago when I put a hired trailer on and burned the fuse out. I replaced the fuse and it worked fine since. So I think neglect is biting me in the a*** right now! Just in case I did the switch test wrong, at rest, the switch is an open circuit, when pressed it is a closed circuit?
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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Sounds like you have a very low resistance or a short at the tailights.
Pull the brakelight s/w plug, measure which terminal you get the 12v - measure the other terminal to earth for resistance. You should have at least 2 ohms or more.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Sounds like you have a very low resistance or a short at the tailights. Pull the brakelight s/w plug, measure which terminal you get the 12v - measure the other terminal to earth for resistance. You should have at least 2 ohms or more. I ended up using a screwdriver and bent one of the ends of the fuse holder as I noticed it was not straight. Plugged the fuse back in and all works good now. In saying that, I will check the resistance to make sure the wiring is in good order. Just to add, I have LED brake lights on the spoiler and not all of them light up. I did notice some moisture in there last night and was wondering if there are replacement LED lights for the spoiler available or if I would have to retrofit one in myself. Not a big deal to retrofit, but a plug and play would be easier at the moment. Cheers snap, always informative and helpful as usual!
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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