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| Fazza-ED |
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I take full responsibility as it was An err in judgement.
I needed to move my xh ute however the battery was flat so I used the battery from my mothers Ed.. I moved the car fine.. Now!... I put the batter in the wrong way round and have it connected for about a minute before realising... Now I have used the search however they don't cover the symptoms I'm having.. The battery is in the correct way now and is connected, the fuel pump primes, all the lights work, however.. When you turn the key to crank the car it does nothing and the power seems to reset.. I'll describe it for you; when you put the car in the on position you can hear the fuel pump prime and the cd player turns on and will play however when you go to crank the car, it resets over and over and the brake light flashes, I have lumped on the dash above the handbrake but nothing works. I have no way of testing the relays or fuses... And it was the only car that was working.. Needless to say I'm furious at myself because I should of realised.
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| Benny D |
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is it in park / neutral?
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
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| TimmyA |
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You need to check every single fuse in the car with a test light or multimeter (visual inspection isn't accurate)... It'll be a good investment if you don't have one...
There is the 6 or 7 fuses under the bonnet... and a dash full of them in the car... I'll near bet you money you've blown the right selection of fuses to disable the car, this is the normal process with a reverse battery... Cheers, Tim
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| Fazza-ED |
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Yes it is, it's in neutral
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| Fazza-ED |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You need to check every single fuse in the car with a test light or multimeter (visual inspection isn't accurate)... It'll be a good investment if you don't have one... There is the 6 or 7 fuses under the bonnet... and a dash full of them in the car... I'll near bet you money you've blown the right selection of fuses to disable the car, this is the normal process with a reverse battery... Cheers, Tim I managed to find a test light (little alligator clip style on) I'm not sure how well it will do cause it feels so cheap haha.. Never used a test light pent thingy whatever you want to call it like this before however.. I'll google or something haha.
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| TimmyA |
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so long as it works...
Clip the alligator clip to ground and stick the probe on the positive battery terminal... make sure it lights up (proves the test light)... then each fuse has a steel tab on each side of the element... without unplugging the fuse you stick it on the steel tab... make sure the key is on when you're doing it to power as many fuses as possible... You're looking for power (lamp glow) on both sides of every fuse... If you get a glow on one side and not the other then bingo, that fuse is blown... Don't think it'll work on the under bonnet fuses... You may have to just visual them for a break if you don't have a multimeter, usually they're so higher a current they blow a big hole and you can normally see it easily... Sing out if you get stuck... Cheers, Tim
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| Fazza-ED |
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I have checked all the fuses under the dash with the test light and they all have power to them on both blades, the under dash relays seem to be working as well. According to the car manual I have they are used to power the indicators and power windows and such, all of which are working.
I have taken photos of the relays I could find, located behind the battery and undernearth the radiator reservoir, the manual im using shows six relays are ment to be behind the battery however as you can see by this picture,  There are only four and im not sure which ones are which.  These are the two located under the reservoir, also there are three other relays by the looks of them(?), to the left of the two in the picture and was wondering if they could also be a problem?  If anyone knows what ones should be the ones I need to replace that would be immensely helpful and Id owe you one haha. Thanks everyone for taking a look I know that it was a dumb move on my part putting it in around the wrong way to start with x.x
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| TimmyA |
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That seems odd the car wont start then... Have you tried another battery in case the one you're using has collapsed?
There are six fusible links in your top picture... They're the little flexible piece of wire between the battery and the red, blue and black plugs... They can be a prick to unplug but you can test them, it'll require a beeper of sorts though... Though it you have power to the car then these are upstream of it so they shouldn't be blown... The relays above them are horn, low beam, high beam and starter relay (starter is the back one I think?)... Do you know how to test relays? There is a picture on the side of them... One pair of pins does the coil and the other is the contacts... So one of your contact pins should be powered all the time (can test with your light)... You can try bridging the contact pins out and the car should crank as soon as your bridge the pins so don't poo your pants if it takes off... If this works you've proved it is either a bung relay or the signal isn't getting to the relay... Best to leave the key off while you're trying to crank with that relay so that the car doesn't start and starter stay stuck in... You say the dash dies when you try to crank it? This is just sounding like a collapsed battery more and more though... Try jumping it off a good car... We may be going into too many headaches for something that may be really simple... Cheers, Tim
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| Benny D |
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maybe the starter soloniod is fried?
and hey dont beat ya self up too much. wats done is done, now the fun of fixin it. every one fuks up here n there. 
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
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| TimmyA |
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for the hell of it too...
that second pic, the three invidual relays are ABS (I think?) ECU and fuel pump... And in the block of three is the "on" supply to the engine bay parts... and the WAC relay... Cheers, Tim
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| TROYMAN |
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a friend of mine did the same thing on his ed, and after extensive testing on all fusable links it turned out he fried the starter trigger wire from the smartlock to the starter relay..
we initially tested the car by removing the starter relay and bridged the power curcuit, to which it started and ran fine.. as he was not interested in changing the loom or repairing the fried wire we rewired the relay and ran a new trigger wire from the ignition switch to the relay.. i hope yours is a easier fix.... |
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| Fazza-ED |
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The only problem is guys... It was the only car that was running because mine needs the gearbox done... So now we don't have any other car =[.. Not only that it sounds like I've done quite a number on it as well.
Is there anything I really can do at home?... With all the wires running around the bay I wouldn't know what goes to where.. Let alone being able to find the starter trigger wire.. Would I be best to just see if we can scrounge up the money to get an auto sparkle to look at it?
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| Fazza-ED |
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Update:
A former fordmod member who lives across the road took time out of his evening to give me a little bit of a hand and we found the battery was warm considering how long it had been out of the car. He looked inside and there was no 'water' in it. It has now been filled with distilled water and is on charge (im too keep an eye on it, and if it keeps trying to push high amounts of amperage in the battery than it is stuffed.) until tomorrow evening when he has his multimeter than he said we will go through the relays if the car does not start.
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| TimmyA |
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Sounded like a battery issue to me... If it blew no fuses at all and then the dash dulled when the start solenoid pulled in, it just sounded like a cactus battery...
Let us know how you get on... Cheers, Tim
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| fowlerj |
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Yeah I agree, it seems like a battery issue.
The symptoms you describe sound exactly like when my battery died and wouldn't hold a charge. When the key was at "on" all the dash lights/stereo come on but soon as you turned the key to "start" everything switched off, but there wasn't enough juice to turn the starter. Weird feeling! Hopefully all goes well charging the battery but if it doesn't work after being on the charger, I'd try your other cars battery or the bloke across the roads' one - because that'll give a definite as to whether it's a battery or wiring issue.
_________________ 1997 EL Falcon XR6 Sedan |
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