O.K., don't know where to post this, so I guess here will do:

I've got two problems: firstly. climate control (CC) on an EL Fairmont:

Had some work done by someone else (silly me) and got the car back, I have a problem with the auto Climate Control: Operate the CC as normal, and dial in a temp etc,. All good. However, when I accelerate, the CC drops out, and only comes back when I let up on the accelerator. This to me is reminiscent of the olden days when we had vacuum wipers ( as you
accelerated, they stopped {now I AM showing my age.....})

Now, is there anybody out there that can suggest what to look/test for???

Second: I recently removed/replaced the cluster. What is the difference between the blue bulb holders and thew white ones.....................

If you want something done right........ do it yourself................

Cheers

1) You have a Vacuum loss during acceleration. I bet your CC is switching to the screen during acceleration. Accelerate = low vacuum. CC Default is to the windscreen.

2) White = you can remove the globes. Blue = fixed globes. Other than that, no difference.

Far canal, how to I find that!!!!....... I have a vacuum pump, but I am not sure where to start. And please don't tell me to pull the dashboard again............

Check the hoses to your vacuum tank as well has the hoses though the firewall.

Do a self test on the CC.

We had the same problem with the wagon which we never rectified.

What was done ? And the problem started occurring after this ?

I had a "mechanic" remove the dash and replace the heater core and aircon evaporator in the heater box. They also replaced the solenoid controls for the Climate Control (the blue box).Four months later, I am still fixing things he left out, or lost screws for. I also think he replaced the CC control, but I am not sure. And yes, the problem started after that. I have only recently noticed it, as I have only started using the aircon for summer.

Also, I inherited a rattle behind the dash, that wasn't there before, which I am almost certain is the black tube that goes to the vacuum reservoir. The one you can't get to without removing the dashboard

As an aside, the "mechanic" wanted to charge me $400 for the evaporator, which I went and sourced for $100, and $200 for the heater core, which I sourced for $80. Exactly the same brand that he was going to supply!!!
The bluddy so-and-so also took a month to do the job, left me with airbag faults because he didn't tighten the dashboard earth, left off part of the footwell ducting, told me not to make the job easier for him by removing the console & front passenger seat etc., Charged me $80 for the solenoid control that I could have sourced for $40.

Suffice to say I was not happy

So you can see why I suggested what I did in post1435751.html .

Normally if the system has been untouched, I'd go the light blue one way valve sitting under the windscreen washer bottle - if it lets vacuum both ways, when you accelerate, the vacuum tank loses vacuum to the engine.
Best to use a gregory's or similar with the hose layout of the ventilation system and test the vaccy tank line, cc unit sniffer line, recirc box line, etc - use a one way valve like mentioned, leave for a couple of minutes to see if that line holds vacuum.

So why was the vaccy solenoid replaced ? - they rarely give issues.

Apparently,and I can't confirm this, there was no vacuum getting to the heater valve, so he replaced it in due course. Now, I suspect that that was the problem all along, as, before giving the job out, I disconnected the heater hoses and run water thru' the heater core, and it seemed good. Water ran thru just fine. The initial problem was that the heater wasn't heating at all.



Haven't seen that one!! I will look.

O.k., I will look at doing what you suggest,I have a manual that shows the layout of the vac tubes, but again, the problem is that they are basically inaccessible, except where the cluster is in front of the fan (via glovebox).

As for doing myself.....lesson learned.............

stay tuned..................

Dont forget to check the Vacuum connection at the heater valve. I cant remember for sure, but if the vacuum is disconnected you'll get the symptoms you have, and the heater works all the time.

Often the smaller plastic hose pulls out of the adapter for the tap.

Nigel

Looked at that already. All good there.

IIRC you need vacuum to open the heater tap.

Well that plug in connector behind the glovebox is probably the best place to do your testing. use a length of rubber hose and a check valve with vaccy pump or run the engine for a few seconds to test lines. The sniffer you'll need to disconnect from the cc unit and hold your thumb over the connector - the corrugated hose will compress if it has vacuum.

No Vacuum = Heater tap open.

You need vacuum to be able to close the heater tap.

All noted and will be done. Thanks