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| snap0964 |
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FPV05 wrote: He isolated the "problem" to one of the connectors in the main loom, under the bonnet. He could not exactly say which one, but at least I now know the general area that the problem is occuring! (maybe). Unlike EF/EL which has Smartlock integral with the BEM, Your model has a separate Smartlock module, and a BEM (called a "Central controller in this case) The Smartlock module lives above the handbrake behind the dash panel, the central controller is to it's left - might be wise to pull the plugs off both and reconnect, just to settle the connections. You may need to pull the radio to get to them properly.
There are 2 or 3 plugs or so near #5/6 injector, so pull them and reconnect to settle the connection also - the larger "barrell" one carries most of the engine electrics on that side. Intermittent probs are always harder to trace, true, wiring gets old, brittle, etc due to heat, but mainly the probs are more prevalent where terminations, connections, are IMO.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| FPV05 |
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Thanks guy's!
Bozz - I'll try those suggestions if it happens again. snap0964 - I checked out those locations, and found the BEM (?) and the smartlock module. It's VERY handy to know where these are! I might try to unplug all the connectors - check and clean them - and re-connect, to make sure they are all in good working order. Is this ok to do without any nasty side effects? Thanks heaps again for that info.
Cheers - Matt. |
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| snap0964 |
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FPV05 wrote: snap0964 - I checked out those locations, and found the BEM (?) and the smartlock module. It's VERY handy to know where these are! I might try to unplug all the connectors - check and clean them - and re-connect, to make sure they are all in good working order. Is this ok to do without any nasty side effects? Thanks heaps again for that info. Yeah Matt, it should be okay, I'd say all you'd need to do is unplug, check, and reconnect - they should be reasonably clean, considering where they are. It's mainly to disturb and resettle, just in case the Smartlock module isn't picking up things as it should. The module itself may be playing up, but I'd say only change it as a last resort - you'd need to "retrain" the replacement. I'd say do the same with those engine bay plugs, as they operate in a harsher environment. See what turns up I guess . . . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| FPV05 |
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Cheers Mate - will do.
Funny thing you mention the plugs under the bonett! (Touch wood) since the auto elec' was here last week - there has been no problem, and HE unplugged then re-conected those very plugs!!! mmmmmm....... we'll see what happens - hey!? I'll still do the smartlock module and centeral controler JUST BECAUSE!! Can't do any harm! Thanks for that info and advise! 
I'll keep you posted! Cheers - Matt. |
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| snap0964 |
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No probs mate - we'll keep our fingers crossed.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| xpression |
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i dont feel its a smartlock issue because once the engine is running smartlock wont kill it.. it also wont stop the other dash lights from working...
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| FPV05 |
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Yeah - agree!
Bloody wires. There's an idea - someone invent a wiring loom (or wire joiners/connectors that NEVER develop faulty connections!) I WISH! 
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| snap0964 |
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How about wireless
Looking at the fault logically, Smartlock is doing what it's supposed to do - the intermittent fault is the culprit. Resetting the Central controller and Smartlock module plugs shouldn't change anything, but they're easy to do, and may provide a result, as you know some faults don't seem logical. Losing the lights seems to be a loss of ign power (as previously covered), but your ign s/w seems okay (or is it??). No doubt those engine plugs may be the culprit - I keep thinking the line to the coil (red/green colour). It runs through the big barrell connector. Bozz's ideas about testing the ign when it plays up is a good call - if you have no spark, you can go one step further and test for power to the coil - put a meter between the tacho pin of the diagnosis connector (Xyphoid's gallery pic #1) and ground, and see if power is there with ign on. You might want to do a diagnostic on the ECU - Key on engine off - it might bring up some logged faults that might give you some ideas. The only other thing that springs to mind - are the connections on the back of your LPG/Petrol selector okay ??? Just a few more suggestions - nonetheless how far off they may be . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| FPV05 |
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Not everyone can think smart! You are one of the few that can!
I have saved and printed every bit of advise from you for future reference, aswel as to help find this b**ch of a fault! Aswel as the wagon auto lock issue you have advised on! Thanks for all that. You seem to have a sound knowledge base for these sorts of problems!? It all helps! Cheers - Matt.
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| snap0964 |
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Thanks for the wrap Matt .
Although there's plenty of info besides mine in this thread. I'm certainly no expert/authority - hope I've given you some good leads, and not too many bum steers . . . . 
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| FPV05 |
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Yeah
 EVERYONES ideas and advise is very much appreciated! Thanks HEAPS to all who helped out!!!
Your advise seemed pretty much on the mark to what I was thinking, and gave me some places to concentrate on. The level of help here and on other posts, across the board, at fordmods is unbeliveable. Thanks agin guys!
Cheers - Matt. |
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| NFGhia |
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AAAAHHHhhhhhhhh!!!!! I think I have the same problem?????
It only happened about 2 or 3 times a month and most of the time I had the no start prob, I've replaced BEM's Ign barrels, relays and pulled apart every plug I could find and checked and cleaned them but every time I pulled out the multimeter the damn thing would come good.. 
So a few weeks ago I installed a Wideband O2 unit and had to hack around with the ECU wires and then the prob reared is ugly head with a vengeance. It was still intermittent but at least I found out that the power to the ECU was dropping out. I still haven't found out why because of the intermittent thing. For the moment I've just put a relay in straight from the Ign sw power to the ECU and no more problem for the time being.. 
I'm getting a 2-way remote start alarm so when I get that I'll hopefully get all that sorted and Smartlock at the same time.. 
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
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| snap0964 |
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NFGhia wrote: It was still intermittent but at least I found out that the power to the ECU was dropping out. I still haven't found out why because of the intermittent thing. So no power to the ECU relay ??? It lives underneath the coolant tank. Quick way to check is to earth out the top right pin of the diagnosis connector with the ign still on - fuel pump should run.NFGhia wrote: For the moment I've just put a relay in straight from the Ign sw power to the ECU and no more problem for the time being.. Which pin of the ECU is this going to ??NFGhia wrote: I'm getting a 2-way remote start alarm so when I get that I'll hopefully get all that sorted and Smartlock at the same time.. Remote start alarms and Smartlock don't get along well as you know - there have been couple of recent posts that have plenty of info on this . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| NFGhia |
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Well the relays been checked and I changed it over with another one but thats ok.
I've got it connected to pin 97 VPWR and heres the cool thing, there's a voltage feedback somewhere and it keeps the relay active and I can pull the keys out and the car still runs. hehehe. I just stuck a N/C switch in line to the ECU so a quick press and she shuts down, put a small timer in between and you've got yurself a turbo timer.. And on the remote start smartlock thing have already looked at the posts but I'm an electronic tech so I'll stick the scope in there and sort it out one way or another.
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
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| FPV05 |
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Geeeez - if yr an elec' tech', I may have to catch up with you some time and find my prob'!?
Where you located in melbourne? PM me when you find some time!
Cheers - Matt. |
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