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| Cy4NiD3 |
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Has this happned with all the ECU's youve tried replacing??...
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| cjh |
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Yes, and I would get another one under warranty.
The radiator is newish, about 5yrs old, and it runs at the temp is should run at. There is no crap between the condencer and the radiator.
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| Cy4NiD3 |
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nfi M8
 ... Might be time for a new motor??? or replace your whole engine loom
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| alfy |
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my car does EXACTLY the same thing on petrol, runs fine on gas
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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| snap0964 |
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Well we're running out of straws. . .
You make no mention of pulling any fault codes from the ECU - I assume there are none ???? Doesn't really sound like a fuel delivery prob as you say it accelerates and doesn't miss/carry on. Same deal with the ignition too . . . . What about disconnecting the ISC plug before the next drive and see if there's any diff?? Put an analogue meter on the TPS and rotate the arm and see if your reading is linear?? Any play in the throttle butterfly spindle?? Any weakness/stretching of the accelerator cable/ return spring?? That's about as much as I can think of. . . . . .
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| cjh |
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The accel cable is new, the TPS is new.
I'm starting to wonder about the MAP sensor, because its non-genuine, its an ACA brand one. I replaced the MAP sensor hose, ( yes its the same length). Its a pain, you drive steady, it jerks around, flatten it, and its off like a shot. I'm currently building an engine, a 4.0 non-turbo, hoping for 180-200kw. Its a mixed bag of bits from EA to BA.
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| cjh |
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Well, the JMM Interceptor is up and running, and I now know why it surges....the JMM unit is telling me that I have a lean mix happening...19.1:1 AFR...............any wonder............too lean.
I have a new Genuine MAP sensor on it, and new O2 sensor (Bosch unit). Must be the exhaust is working very well, my homemade unit. Any ideas on this????
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| EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
On my EF put on new leads 13,000km ago and new plugs 3,000km ago. The car developed a miss and a bit of surging (not as bad as this though).
Turned out #5 lead had no continutity at all and one of the others had continuity sometimes. They were Bosch ones, possibly a bad batch? Replaced the leads, that didn't fix the problem though. I put some NGK (XR6) ZGR6B-11 plugs in and that fixed it. The Autolite 985's that were in it started playing up after only 3,000km. Even though you have a lot of new stuff on the engine, it might be worth going back to basics and testing the leads for resistance using a multimeter and putting some new plugs in (use a different brand to what you're using now). Might also be worth considering the transmission if it's an automatic - make sure all the wiring connectors are in good condition and changing the ATF if this hasn't been done for a while. Has the engine had any mods? Is there any pinging?
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: On my EF put on new leads 13,000km ago and new plugs 3,000km ago. The car developed a miss and a bit of surging (not as bad as this though).
Turned out #5 lead had no continutity at all and one of the others had continuity sometimes. They were Bosch ones, possibly a bad batch? Replaced the leads, that didn't fix the problem though. I put some NGK (XR6) ZGR6B-11 plugs in and that fixed it. The Autolite 985's that were in it started playing up after only 3,000km. Even though you have a lot of new stuff on the engine, it might be worth going back to basics and testing the leads for resistance using a multimeter and putting some new plugs in (use a different brand to what you're using now). The engine is stock, has genuine parts on it. It runs lean in the 500 to 2000 rpm range. That is why. I remember now that it only started doing this after the whole exhaust system went on. And straight after that, the ECU sh!t itself. Might also be worth considering the transmission if it's an automatic - make sure all the wiring connectors are in good condition and changing the ATF if this hasn't been done for a while. Has the engine had any mods? Is there any pinging?
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| cjh |
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Got it all sorted now, made a fuel map and an ignition map, installed it, and alls good, nice and smooth at 50, 60, & 70 kmh, and not surging anymore.
The only prob I have now is getting the laptop to talk to the JMM unit. Must be a glitch in the software and takes ages to get through it. I sent an email to JMM, over a week ago, and they haven't got back to me yet. Don't know whether they are busy or slack???
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| 66 coupe |
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check the voltage on pin 29 of the ecu. If the o2 sensor has a bad earth the voltage can exceed 1.0v, and cause the ecu fuelling to be all over the place. This can happen if the small grey wire with blue stripe is not connected to the block,on the drivers side.
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: check the voltage on pin 29 of the ecu. If the o2 sensor has a bad earth the voltage can exceed 1.0v, and cause the ecu fuelling to be all over the place. This can happen if the small grey wire with blue stripe is not connected to the block,on the drivers side.
Yeah, I know which one you mean, mounts on the exhaust side of the block, on engine mounting bracket, its good.
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