i have got a theory but need a little info if someone can help me!!! i gather that these mods are only a resistor but what i would like to know is the specs on the resistor and where they would plug in on an el 6. this is only a theory atm so please dont hang s**t on me for asking. if this turns out to be fruitful for me i will post some results later
thanks in advance
pete

While this has been discussed many times before and the overwhelming response is that its totally s**t (and i agree..) go nuts mate.

You'll put it inline with either the air temp or coolant temp sensors.. that is you'll cut one of the wires and insert the "resistor mod" in there..

Having said that i wouldnt waste my time.

Let me save you the time

It doesnt work.

i realise that the overwhelming response is bs and i tend to agree but all i asked for was some resistor values etc. so i could try this experiment. its only an experiment at this stage and all i was asking for was info.........
my theory at the mo does not revolve around trying to get more power out of my engine with this mod. i am going down a seperate path but need this info to assist me.... if people dont think outside the square sometimes we wouldnt gain much knowledge..

Hi peter

Certainly see where you're coming from. Unfortunately i dont have the specs you're looking for.

What i understand you will need to find is the resistance values of the intake air temperature sensor. These can probably be sourced from a workshop manual... i think ive even seen the specs posted up here on previous occasions.

Whilst the reasons surrounding why these mods dont work have been discussed on here many times (which you've prob seen), you cant stop an inquisitive mind from wanting to know more

doesnt it just add more fuel?

could put in a potentiometer and make it adjustable? dunno just spitballin here.

It is BS because the whole theory behind these resistor mods ignores the fact that the ECU cross references sensors input. If you artificially change the input of one sensor, say the IAT, the ECU will respond with timing and fuel changes. Then what will happen is that the changes will show up in other sensors, for example the oxygen sensor, and the ecu will then correct that, and in doing so undo any changes you made with your resistor. All you will end up doing is reducing the built in safety margins in the ECU.

If you want to go ahead with your experiments by all means do so, but I really am just trying to save you some time. There is no easy way to trick the ECU into changing its tune (for the better).

But if you do want to go ahead and mess around with it, then this might help you



The coolent sensor is the same. If you want to make the ECU think the sensor is always reading the same temperature, just pick the right value resistor and stick it in. So if you want the ecu to always think the incomming air is 30 degrees you would replace the ACT with a 25k resistor.

If you want the ECU to think it is colder, add a resistor in series. A 10K resistor will knock 10-15 degrees of off.

If you want the ECU to think it is warmer than it is, wire a resistor in parallel. The smaller the resistor in parallel, the hotter the engine will think it is. If it was 30 degrees and you had a 20 K resistor wired in parallel the ecu would think it was 50 degrees. If you wired a 60K resistor in parallel the ECU would think it was just under 40 degrees.

thanks heaps stock
that is exactly the info i needed
will tell all soon

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If you want the ECU to think it is colder, add a resistor in series. A 10K resistor will knock 10-15 degrees off.

[/quote]

Why would you want to do that?

Yeah fair enough, the car will think the air is colder and should go better, but this is like a placebo effect to the car, the ECU will be telling the car the air is colder but it's not..., How do you think cold air is better for the car???? well the answer is that the colder the air, the dencer the oxygen is "more oxygen" where as hot air has less oxygen, so what is the point of making the car think the air is colder when it's not, because the car now may think the air is colder but you will not improve performace or fuel economy because there physicaly is not any extra oxygen in the air to make the improvement happen, because really the air is still hotter with less oxygen, its almost like a paradox, it is one way to first of all waste your money on some poxy resistor and all it will do is stuff you car around, that sort of tampering with the ECU should not be done, thats why there is sensors, they are the for a reason, must at all costs, must obtain a correct reading....


If you want more power put in a KnN filter and a large air opening, the air will naturally cool down alittle more as it goes in more so than a smaller standard air intake, if you put in a pod oppossed to a panel, make sure the pod is inside you original air box and not sucking hot air from your engine bay, that will reduce your power and make your car run like crap and use more fuel!
Do this in conjuction with some extractors and a 2.5 inch straight through exhaust if you money permits.......

If you had an engine that ran lean, making the ECU think the incoming air is cooler/more dense will make it inject more fuel hence fixing the tune. Likewise making an ECU think the air is hotter/less dense will help fix a rich tune.

This works, but it takes more than 1 resistor to do it.