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| creeture3 |
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Hi folks, after removing dashboard to try to fix aircon vac leak (unsuccessful) the car wont start. It ran for a few days but would then cut out. Replaced a few things like the ign. module, hall sensor, fuel pump, but no luck.
Symptoms: 1) ign on, power to everything for 2 secs, and then power off ( good so far) 2) attempt to start, power disappears. Engine may cough, but no start. 3) after power disappears, no spark ( because no power!) 4) leave ign off for 30 mins. Back to #1 I have just run a KOEO test, and it has come up with a fault code 511, faulty EEC. Now, what is an EEC? Where would I find it? Would that stop the car from running? |
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| creeture3 |
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O.K., i think I have leaned what the EEC is: I think it is what I would call the ECU, Engine Control Unit, located under the left hand kick panel.
Is this correct? If so, I have swapped it for another, to no avail.............. I haven't tried the relay yet, the brown one, that is next on the list. I am going bald thru frustration........................... 
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| TimmyA |
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If you're power disappears under load (Ie trying to start) then you have a bad electrical connection somewhere... I'd nearly bet that when you had the dash out you forgot to hook the main dash earth back up tight?
I know on ED it is in the top gulley below the windscreen... Not sure where it is on EF/EL or AU but... Cheers, Tim
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| creeture3 |
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Quote: dash out you forgot to hook the main dash earth back up tight? Nope, made sure that was done! Had an airbag fault previously that was due to that earth being loose, so made sure this time!! Quote: If you're power disappears under load (Ie trying to start) then you have a bad electrical connectio Nowhere else does the power go. Lights go fine, interior lights good, starter motor good. Am atm, tracing thru the wires to the pump. |
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| TimmyA |
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You said the power disappears when you try to start it so I assumed you were losing all your dash lights and similar and it wasn't cranking over or anything?
Cheers, Tim
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| creeture3 |
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No. only losing power to the ignition system. dash lights fine, everything else good. Engine cranks well.
When ign. turned on, power for two secs, which is what is supposed to happen. When trying to start engine, power comes back for two seconds, and then goes. No spark. Everything else stays good. Cannot get any power to fuel pump at any time tho'. |
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| rod hansen |
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No mate, when you turn the key on, the power and fuel pump relay's energize, and if the ecu doe's not receive a pip signal it will remove the ground off pin 22, fuel pump relay ground. The power relay will stay energized. So if every thing was alright before you took the dash out you have left some thing loose, did you connect the ecu grounds at the ecu. I think you better do a voltage drop test on the ecu and find out what is going on.
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| snap0964 |
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I'll guess too the dash out caused a few things - powering an ECU without all the earths (signal or ground), can cause damage. Try your ECU in another car. Earth the top right pin of the diagnosis connector and turn IGN on - pump should run.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Nigel |
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Any chance its your ignition switch? - I see the Ingnition Circuit on a lot of Fords is Directly Wired to the Ignition Switch - and I know that the switch on my EL has needed replacing before due to failure.
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| Mad2 |
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Nigel wrote: Any chance its your ignition switch? - I see the Ingnition Circuit on a lot of Fords is Directly Wired to the Ignition Switch - and I know that the switch on my EL has needed replacing before due to failure. and my AU switch plays up ie no start unless in correct spot .. altho sometimes you let key go & try restarting it can work straight off 
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| creeture3 |
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Quote: Earth the top right pin of the diagnosis connector and turn IGN on - pump should run. No joy there. Quote: Try your ECU in another ca I wish. No-one that I know around here has a similar car. I have done a diagnostic, and get fault 511 : "faulty ECU, replace". Did this with a spare ECU I have, and same result. No joy there Quote: powering an ECU without all the earths (signal or ground), I have checked and triple checked the wiring connections under the dash, as far as I can see, all connections are made. The ECU is earthed under the kick panel, the dash earth is tight. It is odd that, when I first turn on the ignition, I get the correct behaviour, but, when I go to start, the 12V simply "goes". |
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| TimmyA |
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It simply goes because when you go to start you're pulling a s**t load of current and that's causing a voltage drop because of a bad connection...
Check your battery terminals are clean... Check the main earth from the negative post to the chassis and the motor... Check the main input terminal on the back of the starter is tight... You're getting voltage drop under load due to a bad connection somewhere... Cheers, Tim
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| Nigel |
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So test the actual switch. It fails internally - and likely isn't staying on when you move to start
Bad connections don't usually give 0 volts |
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| creeture3 |
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O.k., replaced the coil, and it started and ran for about 30 seconds and then stopped. No spark.
Came back 30 mins later, started ran for about a minute, and then stopped. No spark. |
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| TimmyA |
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Nigel is wrong... Every piece of resistance in the circuit gets a voltage drop across it... Vd=IR... So to drop 12 volts for 1amp you need 12ohms... To drop it at 200amps you need 0.06ohms... Point is you don't need much resistance in a 12v circuit to start dropping volts... I have never tonged a starter but I reckon it'll draw a few amps... Then it depends where the high resistance is as to whether it affects other things...
This isn't to say Nigel is totally wrong either, it very well could be the ignition switch... I've seen them where you lose your accy power when on (no blower fan or cd player)... But it seems coincidental that your problems only started once you pulled the dash out... Cheers, Tim
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