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| KiwiDazza |
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In the middle of a huge problem and want to eliminate/confirm the ECU as the cause. Am I correct in saying to start the ECU self test I connect pin 66 and 91 together and then connect a light/led/multimeter to pin 2 with the other side grounded? I did this and I don't get any codes, just a flat 5.06V showing. I can't plus anything into the diag port because there isn't one!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Last edited by KiwiDazza on Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:25 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| justfordima |
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There isn't a diagnostics port???
What car are we talking about here? Judging by you saying pin 66 and 91 you are talking about an EF / AU? Cheers, justfordima
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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| KiwiDazza |
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yeah sorry, it's an EF V8 that has been put into a 67 Mustang, all I've got is the plug connector diagrams for plug C243.
Bizarre how I'm getting a flat 5V and nothing else, jsut wanted to make sure that these are the right pins. I'm 90% sure the ECU has fragged itself somehow. |
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| justfordima |
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Pin 2 = 2 STO Self Test Output 12 12-14.5
pin 66 = STI Self Test Input 12 12-14.5 pin 91 = 91 SIGRTH Signal Return 0 0 Try using pin 103 (power ground rather than signal return, probably won't make a difference but worth a shot). I read your other post and it would look like it, especially if the fuel pump just keeps going - that's not a good sign. Have you got any other ECUs to test? As a referene to your wiring diagrams ( you have some right?) here's what the diag port should look like (maybe make one up?) so you can follow the normal diag procedures. Cheers, justfordima
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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| 66 coupe |
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daz, join 66 to 91 (or gnd)
test light between 2 and 71 (or +12v) not gnd. whats it actually doing wrong? |
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| KiwiDazza |
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Hey there all, thanks for the replies. I did have the thing running after sitting around for over 1.5 years, started first go! Now after tidying up all of the wiring the injectors are a no go.
I will try the diag again, in any case I'm still only getting 5V at pin 66 and 2 instead of 12V. All the other sensors have been checked and are within their respective ranges. I replaced the TFI/Dizzy with a known working one and also the BEM with a new ignition barrel. Waited the 30mins and still no injectors. Great spark and strong crank. Have good pressure in the rail as well. I got the ECU checked yesterday but feel that it was a half a*** look coz I got the "why don't you just bring the car in and we'll get it running" crap. Have found someone with another v8 ECU and will cruise up today. |
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| KiwiDazza |
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f**k f**k f**k f**k f**k f**k.
no luck with the auto electrician, same old bring the car in s**t. f**k it's starting to piss me off now, even thinking about aftermarket ecu's. anyways just want to check a few more thing. 1. Would a dud coolant temp sensor cause the injectors not to work? 2. My little manual says that there should be 12v on the red wires to the injectors and 12v on the other side of the injectors. My question is, should there be 12V at pins 72,73,74,75 & 98,99,100,101 at the ECU and at the red wire at each injector? The reason I ask is the auto electrician said the earthing is complete internally within the ECU so there should be 12V at each of these pins? Now this sounds like a bit of BS but none the less I DO have 12V at each of these pins! Any ideas? |
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| 66 coupe |
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yeah thats right, 12v at the injectors and at the ecu pin, as the ecu pulls them to ground.
Are you using the BCM, or do you have a smartlock bypass installed? |
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| KiwiDazza |
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yep using the BCM, changed over to another one and have tried a different ignition barrel just in case.
Is the power at the ECU pins derived from the ECU or from the red wire on the other side of the injector? Tis a tad difficult to probe the injector plug for the same voltage with it connected to the injector. I'm sure when I tested the voltage on the removed injector plugs it was 12V on the red wire side and 0V on the other side. Hence the question above to confirm this. If both should be 12V with the plug removed from the injector then I have a break in the circuit, most like in the "salt & pepper shaker" plugs near the throttle body. |
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| KiwiDazza |
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Ok I have found something that would appear to be significant. I went through and tested the voltage on every pin on the ecu and found that the voltage on pins 97 and 71 is varying between 5.16V and 5.71V.
All of the voltage at both side of the injectors is 12V. Will trace that particular wiring again to see if I can discover anything. |
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| 66 coupe |
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71 is your ECU power, from the ecu relay, so id start by checking the relay, fuses etc anything between the ecu pins and the battery.
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| KiwiDazza |
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Yeah just checked the wiring diagram, splits after the relay to feed the injectors and MAF plus a few other things that I don't have connected. I might just pull the wire out and install a nice new one just in case it has a slight cut or something in it.
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| KiwiDazza |
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Ok it all makes sense now.
First time I tested the power inputs they were 12V however when I retested them last night they were only 5V, tested this morning and they were 0V..f**k me I thought. Traced that section of wiring back and managed to find the point of failure, a tiny tiny bit of melted plastic gave it up! When I had the problem with the spark it came from the reversing lamp circuit and funny enough the red wires into the ECU (Pin 97 & 71) join up to the red wire that feeds into the reversing lights (Which goes to a fuse box). What I found was the wires became damaged enough for them to frag and not the fuse. In the end the wire was only hanging on by 2 strands of wire. Cranking the engine moved the wires enough so they were playing up. A quick re solder and she runs fine. Again thank you for all of your help, has been an exercise in patience I can tell ya!. |
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