A few quick questions ...1 ) on the ecu bracket holding the ecu in...I see 1 empty hole top ...middle Hole had a plastic bung in it ....bottom hole has the bolt rivet holding the ecu bracket .....OK had anyone removed there ecu...did you drill out the rivet ...or grind off the head of the rivet ? Or chisel it off .....is it a real bolt and thread rivet ? Can you just thread in a new bolt ? What's the go here ...I live way out of town so don't want to get stranded at home ...lol 2 ) can you just swap your ecu on a series 2 or 3 ....or do you need to swap other parts as well....what's the go ....let me know ...thanks

it is a m6 shear head bolt, if you can undo it with a pair of vice grips or by hitting it around the edge with a centre punch or chisel to undo it. you can replace it with a std m6 bolt.
I have only had one actually unscrew easy, the others I have either ground the head off or drilled through the head. then used the other hole by tapping a thread and using a m6 bolt..

due to smartshield,once you swap the ecu you need to either get a auto electrician with a scan tool or take it to ford to mate the ecu to the bem and keys otherwise it wont start..

or you need the bem and keys from the car you get the ecu from (matching mated set)

Thanks troyman....I had a gut feeling from looking it was 6 to 8 bolt...just had no spares to try the upper hole..--yes I was sure only series 1 could do ecu swaps with easy but us lucky series 2 and series 3 ....had the long process...however I not sure if I need a swap out ecu ...as yet ...the prior owner said he thought the ecu was playing up and messing with the trip computer and dte ..and few other things .....I try and find a replacement bolt for the hole first then attack that rivet one ...thanks cheers

drill a small hole in the center not all the way thru and use suitable easy out, or hit a torx head bit in slightly larger than hole and turn out with a socket to suit