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| ToranaGuy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Good luck with the install. Getting one of these up and running is great for testing your patience!  Yep. Even more so if you have to design the complete EFI system with mixed & matched parts from other car's like i've done for my mighty boy. It has suzuki Cervo mode & suzuki Alto F6a bits in the injection system, all imported stuff from Japan. Never sold locally. I will be using locally supplied TX5 turbo injectors tho, the factory F6a are too small for the project..... lol. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| 4LEDboy |
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Yay its here! Got it thursday! Before I even looked at the stuff in the box I started reading the american newspaper that they used as packaging
 These solder joints are rather small, Looks like I'll have to buy a decent soldering iron  Shouldn't be hard to put together, they have EVERY component in a seperate labeled bag. 
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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| 4LEDboy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Quote: Package Status Your item left the United States from ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) at 4:48 pm on November 14, 2009. That is all  Cool. Should be here before xmas. Do you plan to use it for most engine functions & let the factory ECU control the auto? Cheers ToranaGuy Na I'm running a manual, so what I will do is gut an old ECU for the plug and just make a little wiring loom so I don't have to cut anything. 
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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| ToranaGuy |
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Too easy! You keeping Smartlock?
There's a tutorial online about harvesting a dead EEC ECU to get the connector to use for a megasquirt plug & play setup, if you haven't already read it do a google & find it, it's a good read. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| 4LEDboy |
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Yeah I'll be keeping the remote locking part of smartlock yeah
I can't decide weather to rip apart the ECU's I have or get a dead one 
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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| bradders |
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{USERNAME} wrote: PID closed loop idle control with the MS2/e code works well, but it takes some time to get it tweaked right. I didnt get any pm from you though When it comes to tuning PID theres a couple of approaches. The first thing you can do is characterise the process, might be a little difficult, but if you can relate the process variable (idle) directly to the manipulated variable (PWM output) with a step change; you can come up with whats called a transfer function. From that theres two major approaches to tuning. My preffered approach is specifying a reference trajectory transfer function, possibly including a first order "filter" (to keep the denominator a higher order than the numerator). With algebraic manipulation of the transfer function with reference trajectory you essentially get the PID values to give you perfect control. A quicker simpler approach is set ti and td to zero (or ti=1000000 if reset rate), and keep increasing the gain on the closed loop (proportional only controller) once you've found the verge of instability (very slightly growing oscillations) you can use the following tuning rules: Code: Controller type kc ti td P 0.5kcu PI 0.45kcu pu/1.2 PID 0.6kcu pu/2 pu/8 Ziegler, J. G. and N. B. Nichols, "optimum settings for automatics controllers," trans. ASME, 64, 759 (1942) Kcu is the gain of the controller at which it begins to become unstable, and pu is the period between oscillations. Its usually best to measure say ten oscillations then divide the overall time by the number of oscillations. Once you'd used Z-N you should find there is reasonable control, but it is an approximate method so some tweaking will be required after.
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| ToranaGuy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yeah I'll be keeping the remote locking part of smartlock yeah I can't decide weather to rip apart the ECU's I have or get a dead one Cool. Standard auto ecu's are pretty cheap & easy to come by, so if you have a couple, just rip one open & use it. I have recently found out my mighty boy doesn't need to meet ANY emissions standards, so my turbo & EFI with MegaSuirt is going to be going ahead running petrol. Which will be much easier than the LPG setup i was looking at running with the MegaSquirt. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| bradders |
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I just realised today that the bloody missing tooth sensor is variable reluctance! i had assumed ford would have just used hall effect, so i've built my MSII to work off hall effect. Now theres two ways i can go about this.
1, modify the jumpers on the board to allow the MSII to work with variable reluctance, but then that means i'll have to disconnect the sensor from the stock ECU completly, since the stock ECU seems to add a bias to the signal? 2, retrofit a hall effect sensor, but if i keep the stock VR in place (because i'm going to allow the stock ecu to control the dash and fuel pump) the sensor will be off TDC. I've got a couple of other questions as well, is the first tooth after the missing tooth TDC, or is the missing tooth TDC? now i don't think its essential because its waste spark, but the cam sensor is VR too? so if i'm using the MSII-E how do i wire in that signal? the only reason i want it is so that the 1st bank of injectors fire for 1,5,3 before they spark, then the 2nd bank before 6,2,4, if i don't have the cam signal then the banks might fire in the correct order one time then the incorrect order the next, so my understanding is that half of the time i'd have a smooth idle and the other half a rough idle. thanks guys progress report, well i've followed the MSII-e modifications, and now have three coil drivers built into the MSII (i'll include some pictures later) for the additional grounds i soldered directly onto the legs of R38 and R37 and used a bit of heat shrink. I also fitted the TIP120 transitor to drive the idle controller, the three extra transitors have been mounted to the case above the heatsink strip. in order to provide a reasonable ground, i've used two pins off the db37 connector for each coil driver output, i used the spr4 and ign pins for the onboard coil driver, IAC1A+B for the second, and IAC2A+B for the third coil driver. I also used the prototyping area to attach the new resistors.
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| ToranaGuy |
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Nice work, would love to see the pics.
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| 66 coupe |
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you can piggyback the stock VR sensor brown wire, but you need to connect the stock VR - (grey wire) to the MSII gnd also. It will work. Generally set you MSII pots full CCW, then 1 turn CW on each.
Tooth 1 angle is 60* btdc, therefore the missing tooth is 70*. This is how the ecu's determine the ign timing - if tooth 1 was TDC then it could only predict the timing, not calculate it. Dont worry too much about the injector banks and sequencing causing it not to idle, just set it up with the two banks, 1-2-3 and 4-5-6, 2 squirts simultaneous. You dont need to use the sync sensor, but you can connect it if you want to set up semi-seqential or sequential injection at a later stage (MS3). You need to build a second VR interface for the sync sensor, using an LM1815 is the best way to go. for the PWM valve, a TIP120 will work, but your much better off using an IGBT for it (same as coil driver) also a 1N4004 diode from the - side of the PWM valve and band side to +12v ign to reduce flyback effects. the PWM settings are a bit tricky to get right, but persevere with it, and you will get good results. |
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Very informative post 66coupe, and it will help me a lot personally as well, as i'm setting up a MS to run on a Triumph 2600 that was originally a mechanical injection setup, using a lot of borrowed E series parts like the TB & so on, as i've wrecked a couple & hard parts aplenty lol.
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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lol i was just about to thank 66 as well, very useful information. How'd you get to know so much 66? It makes things so much easier when someone else can shed some light on the situation. I was a bit uncertain about which wire was which (brown/grey) since they both had like 2.6V DC, i think the brown one varied by like 1v AC (i don't have an oscilloscope although i sorta built one i hadn't used it, just used a multimeter)
So will the ECU still work if i ground out the grey wire onto the MSII? do i still leave the grey wire connected to the stock ECU? i'm going by the diagram that i found on another fordmods posting, it only showed the brown and grey wire going to the crank sensor (didn't tell me it was VR, but i should have realised since there was only two wires!) i just want to keep the stock ecu on standby just in case if you know what i mean. furthermore, would you say there is much benefit to implimenting the MSII on the AU? (its a series one non tickford but i put in a tickford engine) since the EEC-V has sequential injection and knock detection. My thinking is that the EEC-V is built to be generic but each engine is different, so an ECU that can be tuned to a specific car should be better even if it doesn't (currently) have knock detection. i don't suppose you have an MSII-E .msq file to get me started for the AU? even if its a file for dizzy or whatever at least the crank timing and fuel injection would give me a good start. Thankyou everyone whos replying and helping me out, its good to know theres people out there who know what their doing and can guide me in the right direction.
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| 66 coupe |
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pm me your email address
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| bradders |
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why do you recommend the IGBT? faster switching times, greater effeciency? i had figured that any switching lag on the transistor would have been negligible compared to the PWM frequency (although i don't know what the pwm freq is, nor the transistor switching time) if switching times is the issue i'm sure my tuning methodology will be able to cope.
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| 66 coupe |
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I have found the Tip120 can run quite hot switching the ford PWM valve, so your better off using an IGBT for overall reliability, Plus the fact the IGBT is designed to switch inductive loads, and can habdle the flyback.
Its up to you what you use, for overall reliablility i use an IGBT |
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