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| Kit |
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Finally after 194,000 km's my head gasket appears to have a small leak between number 5 and 6 cylinders at the rear, header side.
To tell you the truth it's probably been like that for years as the idle has never been smooth. But is just noticable now because it's a little bigger. I may be wrong. My coolant is still perfectly green, no oil. My oil is perfect, no coolant. Oil cap is as clean as new. But there is signs of green coolant dribbling down on the side of the engine at no 5 and 6 when shes cold. My question is. I've looked at the great posts about doing it yourself, with pictures, by ugly Bob and a couple of others. And I can't see any reason why I can't do it myself. The biggest thing I have done to this engine so far is replace my own manifold gasket. With success. Do I need to buy a torque wrench for torquing up the head bolts. Or do I just tighten them as far as my strength can do so? Thanks. |
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| kwaussiekid |
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There is a definition in the hand book on how to tighten the head bolts. New bolts and an AU gasket are musts.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
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| phongus |
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as kwaussiekid said. Get new head bolts and a new head gasket.
The head bolts need to be tighten to a specific torque and then once torqued up with a torque wrench, you need to tighten the bolts up another 90 degrees with a standard EL/EF head gasket, and 1xx degrees with an AU head gasket. (I'm sure there is someone who can put the figures in xx). It shouldn't be too hard...but I'm unsure since I am only doing a head gasket outside of the engine bay  . Would be the same process, except you'd have to move more things out of the engine bay prior to starting.
If I can attempt it, I'm sure you can too 
phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| smiley235 |
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you can do it mate, me and phongus managed to do it and if we told some1 on the streets we did it, they would laugh at us in disbelief. (at which point they'd get stabbed).
Anyhow, I recommend taking the bonnet off too, more room.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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I'm very tempted. It'd be like unexplored territory for me. Would be very interesting.
Sorry about the thread in ECU/Fuel, I could have sworn I started it in the workshop forum. Thanks for the replies. I might make a color copy of all the pics regarding the head gasket on here, and then have one more think about it. I'm 70% leaning toward doing it. |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
Port n' polish and big cam while the head's off FTW !!!
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| arm79 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: you can do it mate, me and phongus managed to do it and if we told some1 on the streets we did it, they would laugh at us in disbelief. (at which point they'd get stabbed).
I wouldn't have laughted at you or Phong. I see 2 quite capable and intelligent people there, who are easily capable of completing any job.
Go on Kit, do it. Don't be a soft C**k. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It's really only a 4ish hour job. But you will need a torque wrench capable to 30 to 40Nm, no question on that one. |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
{USERNAME} wrote: Go on Kit, do it. Don't be a soft C**k. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It's really only a 4ish hour job Does that include time taken for someone to machine and crack test the head? |
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| Shortshift |
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If you know how to use basic tools properly and have some aptitude for mechanical work, it's worth giving it a go. Workshops will charge you $700-1000 to do it. Try and borrow a torque wrench as it's expensive to buy and not used often.
One additional bit of advice is to find someone to give you a hand lifting the head in and out of the engine bay. Not worth putting your back out. And watch you don't bust the chain guides. Good luck!
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
{USERNAME} wrote: And watch you don't bust the chain guides.
Yep cant stress that one enough. Also make sure the chain doesnt slip a tooth. Both events result in a another few hours mucking around with the timing cover. I think the chain is okay just sitting there even off the the cam, will only need re-tensioning, but dont quote me on that... |
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| arm79 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Go on Kit, do it. Don't be a soft C**k. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It's really only a 4ish hour job Does that include time taken for someone to machine and crack test the head? No, but considering most of if not all of us work, it would mean you drop the head off while your at work and pick it up when you finish. So no real delay in getting things done. Total getting your hands dirty time would be 4ish hours. |
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| kwaussiekid |
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Re cam gear :- cable tie the chain to the sprocket, before removing, therefore maintaining original position.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
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| Kit |
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Good stuff. Is the head pretty heavy to lift off is it?
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| arm79 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Good stuff. Is the head pretty heavy to lift off is it?
Head by itself is around 20kg (near 40 if you include cam and rocker gear). Not heavy, just a tad awkward. And it needs to be pulled straight up over the chain guides to avoid breaking them. So probably best for a 2 person lift, but can be done easily with the 1 person. |
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| Kit |
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Thanks. I'll see if I can get another 4 to 8 weeks out of her before I do it.
Or at least until the oil becomes compromised. |
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