im not very confident in removing the injectors. because i heard that u had to do something specific to put it in. was wondering if that is true? do u just remove the bolts and tubing from the regulator to the rail and then pull the rail and the injectors out? and then when putting it in do u just put it back in like u pulled it out? is there any parts i should be careful with?

any help would be appreciated.

this is for models EB2,ED 1992-August 1994 Fairlane/LTD NC/DC 1992-March 1995 but i gess it's pretty much the same for all I6.

TO DEPRESSURISE FUEL SYSTEM. first u must depressurise the fuel system. this is from the gregory's manual.

1)disconnect the wiring connector from the fuel pump relay. Alternatively, disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector.

NOTE: The fuel pump relay is identified by the green wiring connector & is located under the coolant surge tank.

2)start the engine & allow it to idle until it stalls.

3)operate the starter motor. If the engine won't start continue to operate the starter motor for 10 seconds to ensure the pressure has been relieved.

4)ensure the ignition is OFF & reconnect the wiring to the fuel pump relay.

TO REMOVE & INSTALL FUEL RAIL & INJECTORS

TO REMOVE

1)depressurise the system as previously discribed.

2)disconnect the negative(-) battery terminal.

3)disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator.

NOTE: mark all hoses & wiring connecters with corresponding numbers or letters so you know were they came from i found it esy to get the injector wires on the right injector when puting it back together.

4)disconnect the fuel supply & return hoses.

5)disconnect the wiring from the inlectors.

6)separate the wiring from the fuel rail & position the wiring clear of the fuel rail.

7)ensure area around the injectors is free from dirt.

8)remove the retaining bolts & withdraw the injector & the fuel rail as an assembly from the inlet manifold & manoeuvre it from the vehicle. Seal the openings in the inlet manifold to prevent entry of dirt & crap.

9)remove the nut holding the pressure regulator to the fuel rail bracket. disconnect the pressure regulator from the fuel rail union & remove the pressure regulator.(i just left the regulator on the rail up to u wat u do there).

10)remove the retaining clips & withdraw the injectors from the fuel rail.

NOTE: it may not be that simple to just pull it out it took ME a bit of effot to get the whole assembly out of the inlet manifold & to remove the injectors from the fuel rail just be careful not to damage the O rings.

TO INSTALL
installation is the reversal of the removal pocedure with attention to the following points:

1)renew the injector O rings seals (I DIDN'T MINE WERE STILL IN GOOD CONDITION).

2)lubricate the O ring seals with engine oil. Do not use petroleum jelly.

3)ensure the injector retaining clips are seated fully.

4)tighten the fuel rail retaining bolts to the specified torque (17-24 Nm).

5)ensure that all wiring & fuel connections are secure.

6)test the fuel system for external leakage.(i just primed the fuel system turn key to ON position then i got someone to start the car for a few seconds & i had a good listen for air leaks when the car is runing & a good look for leaks i did this a few times till i was happy there were no leaks).

hope this helps if u have any problems pm me i got a manual right here in front of me.

it's not that hard.

good luck.

Also check your MAP sensor vac hose, its on the firewall near the washer bottle. I had a problem with car running way rich after I ran it out of fuel. I replaced injectors and wasn't amused when it didn't fix the problem. Car runs nice now idles properly prob the injectors. But yeah check the VAC hose on the MAP sensor.

Ben

supposedly before my dad passed the car down to me, he replaced the MAP sensor to a new one, but not sure about the vac hose. Ill give it a check. the problem is that the car starts like normal now. i posted previously that the car is working normal, but if it improves engine performance then all the better.

thanks for the input benji.

It could as simple as the hose that conects to the pumps outlet...

I was swapping mine over last weekend and noticed that the hose has a smaller layer inside it that, on mine, had come loose and folded up a bit. If yours has done this it will be restricting flow.

this could be why my Walbro wouldnt work

Your problem sounds exactly like the one my car had before I left and still has.. It certainly will be interesting to see what you come up with. I feel my fuel pump is dying as I had a few dyno runs before it started to die.