the NF's cold start problem is getting worse and isnt always when its cold it now even occurs after the motor has reached operating temp and is then switch off for 30 odd mins and turn on again its rare but its starting to occur and the problem is getting worse

the NF's cold start problem for those unaware is when i take off when the motor is cold i will loose all accelerating ability just for a small time usually 3 seconds but is now starting to increase to 10 seconds its becoming frustrating and when the power comes back it comes back in a big way and usually involved me doing a skid(dont mean to)

i was talking it over with dad and when i said its even doing it when it warm now when i first take off it hit him that he had a EF fairmont ghia do the same thing and it turned out being the synchronizer and something to do with thermal paste he believes (he isnt to sure on the thermal paste but it was something simple he said)

im also in the middle of replacing my ignition leads with 9.0MM eagle eliminators Series I (had to special order them) and also my spark plugs as my fuel economy is getting bad and never having replaced or fiddled with the ignition system and the fact the bad fuel economy and the increasing taking off problems i thought they may be linked as a few of my ignition leads have melted onto the spark plugs and one of them even fell apart when i decided i should check them

if anyone else has any idea to the problem or can confirm dads synchronizer theory or if someone has a detailed diagram on the synchronizer it may jog dads memory

Synchronizer shouldn't make a difference.

I believe he may have been talking about an NL, If thermal past was involved it would have been the TFI module on the Distributor.

The synchronizer really only tells the ECU when the engine is on compression stroke.... but they run batch fire and have wasted spark.

Do the usual, replace fuel filter, air filter and check all ignition wiring.

You could possibly have a dodgy ignition barrel (this is common) the contact become loose at the wire end of the barrel.

I do find it hard to believe the syncronizer is faulty, However its only a $10 part from a -do it yourself- wreckers, why not just replace it.?

there is instructions on how to refit it on here, all you need is a drill bit or a nail. for setting and a 13mm spanner.

ok kwl lol ive done air filter and fuel filter when i first got the car

a idea that came to my mind it would be dirty connectors to the coil pack as i had a similar thing with my TPS and it would make the car rev and cleaning the TPS connectors fixed it

the ignition barrel has been replaced by the previous owner but if it involved soldering he probably just tied the wires together and covered them in tape(ive never had to pull a ignition barrel out and i dont know if it has to be soldered on or not so dont shoot me krissdog)