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| markr154 |
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Hi fellow Ford lovers!
I don't know if this is a common problem with EF's, but I'm experiencing the following occasional starting / idling glitches: 1. When I turn the key to start, there is often a slight <1 second delay (where nothing happens at all) before the starter motor kicks in & cranks the engine 2. After a few starts (in between stops through the day), and when engine is warm, I sometimes get the same delay, but then the starter motor struggles to turn the engine over i.e. sluggish start! 3. I also notice that very occasionally I can be sitting in Drive or Neutral, and my rev's start rising and lowering for no reason (car idles at approx. 650rpm, but it jumps up to 750rpm & down again!). My mechanic says that this could be due to my new 2.5" exhaust, that could be confusing my O2 sensor, ...what do you think? Could any of this be down to an ECU problem? Incidentally, I recently had a NEW (well, refurb'd) ECU fitted by McInerney Ford here in Perth ($650 f**k me!) because I was experiencing probs 1 & 2, and they told me that the idle speed part of my old ECU had blown which could cause this. I was also told (after I rang them to complain that my rough starting prob had not disappeared!) that I would need to keep running the new ECU in until it 'adapted' to my engine. Well it's now 6 months later, and I'm still experiencing the same f**k thing!! Any suggestions guys on any of my 3 probs above? Maybe reset my ECU? Change my O2 sensor? I really have NO clue! I'd really appreciate some help on this 'cos it's really starting to piss me off! Possible RELEVANT basic 'mods' I've done to my car: 2.5" exhaust (from CAT back) K&N Panel Filter Refurb'd ECU (fitted by Ford dealer) NEW starter motor (just in case you were wondering..) Standard EF snorkel & intake I have probs 1, 2 & 3 AFTER this lot! PLEASE HELP GUYS!!!!!!!! CHEERS
_________________ Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
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| Mash85 |
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hmm in my ef i was getting experiencing those problems. eventualy it got worse and worse. until one night it wouldnt start. ended up being the fuel pump dying.
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| auwepn |
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get a lot of them problems at work, sounds like the ignition key is worn (its a delay with smart lock identifying the key)
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| markr154 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: get a lot of them problems at work, sounds like the ignition key is worn (its a delay with smart lock identifying the key) Thanks AU!
That definitely sounds like a possible cause, it is a '95 after all! I take it that by saying 'at work' you mean you work for a FORD dealer? I wonder what the damage for a new ignition key is? Any idea? Thanks for your input!
_________________ Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
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| justfordima |
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If its a delay, then smartlock is checking your code. If its strugling, its either your starter motor, or the connections to it.
$650 for an ECU is utter s**t, take it back. And take your old one. The revs going up and down, try doing a search on hunting idle, there's been quite a few of those. I just disconnected my Idle speed controller. Some people put it on a swtich, some people ignore it., Good Luck!
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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| markr154 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If its a delay, then smartlock is checking your code. If its strugling, its either your starter motor, or the connections to it. Hey guys,
$650 for an ECU is utter s**t, take it back. And take your old one. The revs going up and down, try doing a search on hunting idle, there's been quite a few of those. I just disconnected my Idle speed controller. Some people put it on a swtich, some people ignore it., Good Luck! Turns out it was my Neutral Safety Switch! Starts great now, no delay! Cheers for the suggestions!
_________________ Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
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| podes |
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i have the same problems that markr154 is talking about? how do i disconnect the idle controller and what will that do? whats this netural safety switch? what does it do where is it located guys. Im a newbie and as he said its startin to annoy me abit to because it gets really rough at times.
_________________ EF Fairmont - King Spring Lows, Monroe GT shocks, Avanti 17" Racing wheels, Sony CDX-GT500 HU, Kicker 6.2 splits, 2x 12inch Kickers, Powered by sweet gas injection!
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| markr154 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i have the same problems that markr154 is talking about? how do i disconnect the idle controller and what will that do? whats this netural safety switch? what does it do where is it located guys. Im a newbie and as he said its startin to annoy me abit to because it gets really rough at times. Hey Podes,
The neutral safety switch is under the car, and is related to the transmission. I think it prevents you from starting your car if it is left in gear! Apparently they can get a little 'sticky' and is a common EF problem. I had a mechanic investigate my problem, initially he thought it had something to do with my ignition switch itself, but there was no change when he put a new one in! He eventually traced it back to my neutral safety switch. Switch was quite cheap, about $80 ...but I would have paid anything to get rid of the problem! Might be a good idea to check your ECU for error messages on your idle speed, but I think your neutral safety switch should be your first port of call! Good luck mate!
_________________ Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
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| podes |
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thanks mate well im about to have a new transmission put in soon so i guess i can live for the moment but as you said mate its pissing me off sometimes it gets so rough it shakes the car hardcore
_________________ EF Fairmont - King Spring Lows, Monroe GT shocks, Avanti 17" Racing wheels, Sony CDX-GT500 HU, Kicker 6.2 splits, 2x 12inch Kickers, Powered by sweet gas injection!
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| markr154 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: thanks mate well im about to have a new transmission put in soon so i guess i can live for the moment but as you said mate its pissing me off sometimes it gets so rough it shakes the car hardcore Hey Podes,
If you're experiencing rough idling as a whole, might be worth looking at your O2 (Oxygen sensor) that is normally fitted to your exhaust manifold under the hood. It's common that the O2 sensor can get confused or start playing up (particularly if you've upgraded to extractors or larger exhaust etc.) and it can then start sending fluctuating oxygen readings to your ECU idle speed controller, resulting in erratic idling. O2 sensors are cheap (approx. $60-80) so probably worth a look initially!
_________________ Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
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| lampfishes |
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Am having this same problem on an EB. Its either the ignition switch, inhibitor switch (gearbox) or starter relay is the issue. Has refused to start at times so I just remove the starter relay from the block housing 4 relays near the battery and jump start and presto. Replaced the relay but the problem has returned. Thought it may be the inhibitor which in the old days you could get to contact if you moved through the gears but having seen a picture of one they are a little more complicated these days so internal dirt could be preventing moving parts operating. They must be serviceable because refurbished ones are on the eBay for about $80. Glad someone else has had this issue.I know the RACQ certainly is. They replaced the near new starter only to have to refit it for no charge! lol
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| Greenmachine |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: If its a delay, then smartlock is checking your code. If its strugling, its either your starter motor, or the connections to it. Hey guys,$650 for an ECU is utter s**t, take it back. And take your old one. The revs going up and down, try doing a search on hunting idle, there's been quite a few of those. I just disconnected my Idle speed controller. Some people put it on a swtich, some people ignore it., Good Luck! Turns out it was my Neutral Safety Switch! Starts great now, no delay! Cheers for the suggestions! - So you were getting the delay AND sluggish cranking from the faulty NSS? - The idle is evidently still something else?
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| DA22LE |
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I didnt flip thru the thread, so forgive me......
The ISC is dodgy i suspect........
_________________ BA XR8 Boss 260 |
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| benryanau |
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Also check your grounding - put a voltmeter on a low volt scale, between neg batt post and a clean bit of aluminium on the engine. Have someone crank it over and make sure it's not showing any more than 0.5 volt.
Could be the ISC, yes for rough idle. Delay could be either the neutral switch, smartlock, or as I found once the starter relay. It's top-left relay behind the fuse panel near to the RH speaker. I'd swap this relay out first, then neutral switch, then ISC. Smartlock issue should show with a diagnostic tester as a KAM code from memory (I used this joke before, sorry)! let us know how you get on! |
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| Esteven8 |
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Must have been digging deep for this one. Check the dates on the posts guys.
 Pretty sure after 7 years the OP has either fixed the problem or sold the car! 
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} |
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