Yep, I'm one of the individuals who got sucked into buying a Powerchip Gold some years ago for $550.00, well learned my lesson on that one.
But you are right, there really isnt a big difference with the unit installed. I wrote to Powerchip in regards to mods done to my XH (cam,xhaust etc) and their reply was to give them the car for 2 days so they can custom tune their chip, sounds good huh, $1500.00!!!!!

So I wrote back and said, nah will buy me a Chiptorque addon as recommended by Crow Cams.
Josh never replied.

Hopefully when I get the chip it does complement the 223549 Cam I have installed.

u dont see ur testimonials on their website! i actually was going to get a powerchip but luckily for forums like this i saved my money.

will be getting a chiptorque or maybe wolf. not sure as yet

Yea its sad ay, if anybody in Sydney wants to test the powerchip gold on their machine, give us a PM, it's literally in a box next to me. Seriously, if you are pondering the thaught of owning one, come and try mine out, so that you know what you are expecting. I don't want my mates on fordmods getting gypped by some prick full of open ended promises about his product. Anybody got a dyno to donate for a run? Could do a before powerchip gold 98 and after comparison.

I'm just wondering what to use the Powerchip for after I have installed my Chiptorque.
Maybe use it as a paperweight?

Sell it to someone in China on Ebay?
Its about all it seems to be worth....

Will let you know how the Chiptorque goes..

Quite an expensive paperweight, but hey, it might do a really good job of it.

Chiptorque in, idles 100% better and goes somewhat quicker...

Excellent product, simple as easy to install, cost effective.

Anyone want to buy a Powerchip Gold????

Lol, they can buy mine too.

wat dose uni chip compare to the rest of the chips

The unichip is a bit of a hack. It tricks the ECU into doing things differently. Dealers like them becuase they can be fitted to virtuall every car so they only have to learn how to use one product.

They work ok (as long as its done right and the ecu doesnt learn around it), but there are better things out there.

Where did you get yours done? I have a Crow 2232549 cam for an AU 6 and Chiptorque chip (supposedly) to suit that I am using for paperweights after going back to the "tuner" 3 times.

The hot idle was so rich that there was unburnt fuel in the exhaust, it wouldn't idle under 800rpm and it was so slow to return to idle that there was no engine braking. I went through a full set of (front and rear) pads in under 20,000k's - of country driving.

It didn't help that the local agent didn't have the gear to tune in real time, although he has a dyno. The car had to sit in his shop for 3 days while he sent the chip to Brisbane to be reflashed, it was totally undriveable on the factory computer.

I wouldn't recommend buying a Chiptorque from anyone who can't tune it in real time.

Why don't you call Lachlan at ChipTorque directly and let him know of your problems... I'm sure they'll do everything they can to sort it out to your satisfaction. How do you know your local agent did the right thing in conveying the correct specs for your car etc. ChipTorque may like to get some feedback re their agents.

I've used ChipTorque for about 3 years now on a different cars and have only ever experienced good things. They're more capable than unichip and cheaper as well.

This bloke is no longer listed on the ChipTorque website as being an agent. Perhaps they've already had feedback?



I haven't heard good things about Unichip lately either. I've finally found a bloke in Newie who sells and can program the Flash Tuner. He's got a BA GT in his workshop being fitted with a Vortech T-Trim kit from CAPA. Previously it had a CAI, cat-back system and Unichip. It ran so rich it was slower than standard.

I did speak to Lachlan some time ago - he referred me back to the same bloke, or to a bloke in Sydney who can do real-time tunes. I suppose it can't hurt to send the chip to Brissie for one last chance if it won't cost heaps.

If I'm not happy with it I can get the Flash tuner and custom tune done only a 15 min drive away, which wasn't an option 2 years ago when I started down this path. Then again I might just save pennies for a while longer and stick a Powerdyne in it... ... I could get a bit back by selling the cam and chip on eBay to someone in China.

ChipTorque

price????

$700ish

Have some better results now. Spoke to Matt as Lachlan was tied up. Sent the chip away with my car’s specs to be wiped clean and reflashed with their settings for the Crow 2549 grind. I was happy enough to pay $100 plus P&H. Got an urgent email from Matt “You say your car’s an auto but the chip you’ve sent us is for a manual?â€￾. This might have had something to do with the sh*thouse results I had before.

When I got the chip back I put the Crow cam back in. It ran better than before but was weaker than standard below 2400rpm. Meantime the donk started chewing camshaft postion sensors (which are driven by an idler shaft in the block where the camshaft was in the old 250). Had to have the idler shaft, thrust plate & sensor replaced, not to mention a new timing chain guide kit, water pump, harmonic balancer and radiator. Can't complain tho - it has 280,000k's up and uses less than 500ml of oil between changes every 10,000k.

While this was being done, I got the workshop to degree in the camshaft and adjust the vernier gear sprocket I put in a while ago. The camshaft had to be advanced 1.5 degrees to be on spec.

Picked it up Friday and the difference is amazing. It launches harder than it ever did with either the std or Crow cam, and it just keeps getting better up to 4000 revs. I haven’t given it a real thrashing yet, but so far it’s a vast improvement. The only real niggle left is that there is f**k all engine braking – it just holds the revs in lower gears. I’ll just have to put in some better brakes…

I’ve heard it a lot – that these OHC 6’s are very sensitive to cam timing. All I can say is, believe it. And spend the extra couple of hundred on a vernier sprocket and degree-in if you’re going to change cams.