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Problems replacing BEM - Solved! 

 

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 Post subject: Problems replacing BEM - Solved!
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:25 pm 
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I am in the garage now with the new unit plugged in, going by the technical documents section I need to have the ignition in the "ON" position (I'm guessinbg that mean when all the accessory lights turn on) and waited 30 minutes. Nothing happened and ofter wating another 5 minutes to be sure I tried to start the car and nothing happened.

All it did and still does is show the ((!)) light when the key is twisted.

The Smartlock jewel is not flashing at all with this new BEM but all the other features such as lights , dimmer function, and antenna height are all working properly, its weird. I think I'm doing something wrong.

Do I need to replace all the dash components including all the plugs for central-locking, boot release, clock, etc, first?

Last edited by Jordan on Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:33 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 5:51 pm 
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By, on they mean not accessories position, but the next one. where the key normal is when the engine is running (not start).

For an EF BEM it's a 30 minute wait, for EL BEM's it's an hour.

You may have to hook up all the dash components, because the rear demister button is part of smartlock too (sneaky buggers).

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:24 pm 
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Yeah, its at the correct position (by accessory lights I meant the test lights in the instrument cluster)

The Demister is used to tell the BEM to learn new Remotes, but mine never worked so I thought it wasnt a problem. I'll switch back to the origional BEM while everything is still apart and try again to see if it will start.

I sat in the car last time with a stopwatch going and I heard a few relays clicking in the dash at about 20mins and 40mins (approx, I'v forgotten already) but no smartlock jewel is flashing. I have left it sitting there for the last 3 hours and still nothing.

Stupid thing.
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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:48 pm 
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You have to have the doors closed - the door locks will 'cycle' (lock/unlock). IF the doors are open they may not work.

Leave a window down. ;)

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:14 pm 
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Hey Datamine,

I did that, sat in the car with the doors closed for an hour, no difference either way.
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:00 pm 
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Ok, it took me 2 weeks to get around to it, but I swapped back my origional BEM and yeah it still wont kick. Whoever said I might need most of the dash and facia switches reconnected is right.

BUT since I have been playing with it, I realised that my BEM problem is probably not with the BEM (ironic huh?) but instead its the ECU relay under the water resevoir, the hidden relays which are attached behing the battery. I was tracing a buzzing noise from my fan relays near the passenger headlight so I disconnected them all to shut them up and I was left with a faint buzz from this one (See pics) which thankfully is the closest one to the engine so was easy to take out without breaking anything on it.

Does anyone know what pins do what? How to test, Or where I can grab a new one on a saturday? (Without going to a ford dealer and paying $50)


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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:23 pm 
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thats a fuel relay..... can find at most wreckers. brown one (next to it) is different, has to be the green one.

dont work, no fuel = no start

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:24 pm 
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PS. they can be found on all E-series EA-EL and AU

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:34 pm 
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There are 2 there, I dont have 2 fuel pumps...

I have read that one is fuel, the other (this one which is buzzing in direct relation to my BEM/Fan/Smartlock/ECU issue) should be the ECU relay.

A dodgy fuel relay wont be causing all this grief.

EDIT: Both relays there in my EF are the same colour.

EDIT2: Actually, I remembered I'm colourblind between green and brown (a red colour defficiency the doctors call it) so I'll go drag my wife to the garage to confirm that for me.

Last edited by Jordan on Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:49 pm 
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swap them and see if it works

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:54 pm 
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EDIT3:

Yeah, my eyes suck. I pulled out the Green.

I swear that when it was buzzing I put my finger on each and I felt this one vibrating, not the brown one.

Is the Fuel relay triggered via the BEM or via the ECU? As I'm thinking that a short in the plug/harness might be shorting the entire ECU itself instead of the other way around which I was guessing.

Leaving my BEM working perfectly and no spark or fuel to start the engine (Actual symptom is the car cranking endlessly with the smartlock jewl flashing at me)
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:57 pm 
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does the car crank and not fire ?? or doesnt do anything ??

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:37 pm 
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See this thread also

{DESCRIPTION}
It will

1) crank and not fire.
2) trip computer and dash displays flickering and relays clicking behind the dash + crank and not fire
3) not engage the started motor and sit there spluttering trying to crank (sounds awfull, like its about to break itself)
4) start up first time no worries.

It does more of 1 through to 3, and not enough of 4 to actually rely on it.

Had NRMA roadside come over and look at it just then (he whinged about trying to diagnose "worked on" cars) and pointed to an all encompasing voltage issue affecting all components of the starter, ECU, BEM, and battery.

In other words I guess there is a s**t nasty earthing problem somewhere...

Can someone tell me how the pins are configured? I will wire in a generic relay and keep on troubleshooting it.
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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:24 pm 
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sounds like you have no amperage!

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:52 pm 
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The NRMA dude had the battery hooked up to his truck while he was playing with it, so it had the volts.

I will grab some jumper leads and use them as a make-shift earthing kit by clamping all the cables to the Negative terminal, then clamping the other ends to the chassis and the engine itself.
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