Hey everyone .... Laticia.'s back

I did a search but can't find the type of resistor to stop the thermo fans running non-stop ..

I read the auto to manual guide, it gives what resistor is needed, a 6.8k 1watt, But I don't know the colour bands or where to put it in the end of the auto gearbox loom.

If anyone can give me the colour bands, and what pins to put it in, maybe take a photo? .. it would be great help,

Having the thermos run all the time, is making the car run too cold.

Im finding that having the fans on all the time is taking stress on the battery ....

The other way I thought about doing it, was using a craig davis thermo fan setup .. But rather not do that ....

Oh, and im running the stock NL ecu, or I can use the EX-COP EL one I have.

Thanks heaps guys..

Luv, Laticia .

Last edited by Sommers NL on Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

6K8 and 1K2. The latter is the temp and former is the selector.

hope this is helpful Laticia
EF/EL AUTO-MANUAL ECU CONVERSION

This is how to get your standard auto ECU to run properly without having idle problems and the thermo fans running non stop.

and piecesTo begin with we assume that you have already aquired the T5 box with its loom and other bits . Once these have been fitted you will come to plugging in the wiring harness. The standard BTR auto has 2 plugs: one is rectangular in shape which will plug straight in to your manual harness, this sends the signal for the speed sensor, reverse sensor and neutral switch. The second is a round cannon type plug which is for the auto’s only and operates your solenoids, sends the signal for the gear selector and the box oil temp sender. These last 2 items is where the idle probs and fans come in to it. The idea is to trick the ECU in to thinking that the auto is running at the right temperature and in neutral, and for this we need 2 resistors
4band 5band
1 x 1.2k ohm (brown-red-red or brown-red-black-brown)
1 x 7k ohm (violet-black-red or violet-black-black-brown)

If you don’t know how to read resistors then don’t worry because your Jaycar dealer will be able to identify them for you when you buy them. Next you need to gently bend the legs of the resistors so that they look similar to this. I found a small pair of pliers helps a lot!


The legs are bent in a U shape to simulate the prongs that are in the male end of the cannon plug, so it may help to bend them a little twisted to ensure a good contact with the female cannon plug. Next you put them in to the plug like this. The resistors aren’t polarise so it doesn’t matter which way you put them in.


Noting the squared cutouts in the plug pointed out by the aqua arrows, insert the resistors as shown

Green oval-1.2k ohm
Pink oval - 7 ohm

This should then allow the car to operate normally. I finished off the cannon plug by cutting a small piece of rag and stuffing it in to the end of the plug to hold the resistors in tight, then I wrapped it in electrical tape to give it some protection from the elements and also to prevent a short circuit


found it in an old email from 2005

does anyone know how/if this applies to AU series?

Ive done T5 conversion on mine, and I cant get it to start. Ive gone over all the plugs a million times, and they are fine. The problem seems to be the inhibitor switch. on the auto loom I have put the two plugs back in the inhibitor switch and turned the inside dial to where nuetral should be. there are no resistors in the big round plug, as it is different from e series and I cant figure out how to do it.

theoretically it should start without the resitors yes?

it ran poorly with the series 1 manual loom on and conked out after a few seconds, due to the wiring of the tps, map and coil pack plugs being different form series 2.

desperately need a good round of advice to get this thing cranking so I can get it to ford and they can rewrite the samrtshield codes on the manual ecu I have.

ive been wondering the same thing with my auto computer, was just thinking of buying a manual one would plug straight in and be better?

okay guys, problems, the NL wiring to the auto box is different than the standard EL, (when i got a rebuild motor for it they put a standard EL engine loom on the motor and the auto stayed in 3rd gear, I had to change the engine loom to the NL one and then all the gears worked) I too and i believe that doco was for a EF

I have the pink/green wire, but I don't have any violet coloured ones in the big canon plug that is on the side of the T5 where the auto box used to be ..

From my understanding the 1.2k was for idle speed, and the 6.8k was for the thermo fans ... is that right???

does anyone know what pins on the ECU to connect them too???

Please help, im sick of my thermos's being on 24/7 in this colder weather, because its using a fair bit of fuel being so cold! I have a 91oC thermostat in it.

Please help!

Laticia.

anyone???? could the violet wire be in the 4pin square plug that goes into the inb, switch???

i had placed a resister in the blue plug and 1 in the big round 1 when i did mine a few years ago ,
now ive got an Auto back in my grey EL and cant get picks of it , but i do have some where that im trying to find

hiya, and thanks for helping, do you blue wire into big round loom thats that plugs into the auto box? and if its the blue wire, does that go to the pink/green one??? and is that the 6.8k resistor? ...

I hope to do this today!!!

Laticia.

To trick the ecu into thinking it is it neutral you will have to add a 7k 1% rated resistor or a 6.8k-ohm resistor to pin 30 on the ecu And the other end of the resistor is to be spliced into pin 46(signal ground).
to trick the ecu into thinking the transmission temp is ok, by adding a 1.2k 1% rated resistor to pin 42 on the ecu and splice the other end of the resistor to pin 46 as well.

hope this helps

because the auto is no longer in there, can I cut pin 30 to solder the resistor on it???

So the 6.8k/7k is for the idle?
And the 1.2k is for the temp to stop the fans running all the time .... ???

Do I have it right?'

Thanks to everyone to is helping me!

yes! you can cut the wire on pin 30..
and yes the 6.8 is for the idle and the 1.2 is for trans temp.

THANKYOU!!!!

I did lower the base idle when I first put the T5 in at work, so the car idles on about 950rpm .. so would that mean I don't need the 6.8? or will I get a much smoother idle bumping the idle speed back up and putting the resistor in? ...

Sorry for all the Questions!!!

Laticia.

This should be made a sticky post IMO

i would just fit the resistor first and see how it idles. as once the resistor is fitted the ecu should read its in neutral and control the idle via the isc and it should end up idling around the 725rpm mark..
if for some reason it idles low then pump the idle up but i think it will be ok..