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low_ryda |
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my ea stopped the other day, (hadn't been driven for bout a week or two) after starting drove around 2 k's down the road, downshifted for a corner and lost fuel. haven't had it back since.
tested my fuel pump with a 12v battery straight to the pump and it works. tested the fuel pump relay and it has all the power it needs just doesn't output to the fuel pump, so i tested the relay with 12V and it still works ! i tried two different relays & both work out of the car. when measureing the signal input on the relay it only picks up 3volts which is all i would expect from the computer (hence the need for a relay) but the relay will only switch on 12 & 9 volt & won't operate under that out of the car. just wondering if anyone could tell me what signal voltage they get to their f.p relay and if this is a common fault.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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low_ryda |
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also if i bridge out the fuel pump n pump fuel full time it still won't start so leads me to think it's a computer problem but tried a spare ecu and still the same problem.
really shytting me to tears. my tacho has been running out for a while now and have had performance degredation over a long period. the wiring digram shows full time power for fuel pump relay form the ecu relay but the trigger runs through the tfi. could the tfi be phuked ?
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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Shortshift |
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Have you checked if fuel is getting to the fuel reg & if the spark plugs are firing?
I haven't heard of any EAs (or other E-series) having this problem.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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DJ_Brown |
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Age: 37 Posts: 290 Joined: 10th May 2006 Ride: 5 Spd EA Wagon, 5 spd EF Fairmon Location: Melbourne |
have you checked your fuel injection relay? Its the other one near the fuelpump relay. If its dead, it wont supply voltage to the injectors, coil, dizzy and fuel pump relay.
It may have burnt contacts, and severe voltage drop, hence the 3 volts input to the fuel pump relay. The positive side of the switching section of the fuelpump relay is supplied by the EFI relay, and the ground signal for the fuel pump relay switching is supplied by the ECU. Failing that, i'd be checking voltages at some pins on the ECU, such as 12+ and earth conncetions. But from what you describe, i wouldnt be surprised if its the EFI relay. There are 2 relays, 1 green, and 1 brown.. i cant remember which is which, but its the one thats not fuel pump. Good luck! David.
_________________ If you're not driving a manual, you are only steering... |
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low_ryda |
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yer the green ones the fuel and the other is the ecu relay.i found insufficient supply to the ecu today, even though the relay is switching it's not switching enough power which would explain why when i bridge out the pump it still won't start.
found some faulty fusible link connections (one welded itself together) today and soldered them up, but still doesn't fix the problem. have to get it going to make room for the mont
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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DJ_Brown |
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Age: 37 Posts: 290 Joined: 10th May 2006 Ride: 5 Spd EA Wagon, 5 spd EF Fairmon Location: Melbourne |
More than likely burnt contacts inside the ecu relay. i'd try swapping it with a known good one.
_________________ If you're not driving a manual, you are only steering... |
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low_ryda |
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have done, always have to have a spare everything with a box car lol. my 5 speed ecu was in it when it happened, tried the auto one and no difference, put the 5 speed one back in then opened the auto up, everything appears fine using a mag lense and light.
has to be a d**k earth or some other kind of ridiculous electrical demon there somewhere, it's been known to happen, i generally get strange dramas from the terminal blocks because there exposed to the weather all the time. i keep them covered in lanolin but they still suffer from electrolysis. rebuilding these today and replacing fusible links with heavy guage wire for diagnosis.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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howsie |
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probably a stupid question but is it a smartlock model if so have you check the crt lp fuse in case smartlock is doing this. also do you have an immobiliser and if so does that have a problem. although having said this i think smartlock only came out in the eb s2
_________________ Current cars |
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low_ryda |
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it's non smartlock and the immobiliser is working fine, the other day after it stopped it produced code 11 on a koeo test so it's an intermittant power/earth problem somewhere.
has had the harness changed though i'm a bit worried bout a chafed wire somewhere although unlikely. it's never easy when you want it to be, next week i'll find it was something stupid.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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snap0964 |
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Post deleted.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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low_ryda |
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that offer still there snap ? i'm not in nowra but not far away.work in bommo could even catch up for a beer ?
found a few d**k things in the wiring, i'm guessing it's the wiring between ignition/computer and or ecu/relays, going to swap whole loom over with el loom. just wondering if theres a specific area i should be lookin at before i go through all that drama.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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