thats why I said when you get around to it. no rush. your other stuff should come first and I hope everything works out.

Thanks.

Looks good. Can't fault the RPM params, not sure what the difference is there. Just edited the header to add your name and put it up on the site, I will add it to the table at some point. Good work!

Cheers,
Jason

hey snap, would you be able to do a 64k rip of the 5DAA? i had a look at the 256k and it looks like it has doubled up on the code. not sure if its supposed to be like that or not, but its making it hard to make a def when there are 2 locations for each parameter.
thanks

I'd be 99% certain the correct location is the usual 0x2xxxx offset. You can either split the 256K bin using TunerPro or blank the 0x3xxxx bank with FFs using a hex editor. Just make sure you test it afterwards

Cheers,
Jason

thanks Jase, ill get stuck into it tonight. if I have any luck ill send it to snap to test. if not I can get access to a manual xh from one of the boys at work.

If you have no joy with the data you have, I'll give it a go.
The ripper has a 64k option - don't know if it will be successful though.

all good so far, just having trouble finding some things in it now. might take longer than i expected. i can get access to a manual xh if i need another dump.

Hey Jason,

Hope you are doing well.
I was going to email you, but I thought I'd put it out here so that if anyone else has had the same issue or has never seen this before they could also benefit/answer.

Recently my EL XR6 has been running a little rough, especially in the cold. The other thing that I had noticed was that as I braked to a stop, the car shudders and it almost seems to stall but doesn’t.
Finally, on Thursday night while I was stopped at a set of lights, the engine started sputtering, and cut off. This has happened twice prior to Thursday, both times a simple re-start would “fix” the problem. This time however, I switched everything off and tried to re-start but the engine sounded like it had the lumpiest cam on the planet and I could smell unburned fuel and black smoke. The car had gone into limp mode and pretty much lost all power.
I pulled over into a service station and called RACV, however as I waited I tried to start the car again. It started beautifully. However, after about 30 seconds to a minute later the problem started again.
Again, I shut it off and an hour had passed when RACV roadside assist arrived. When he arrived, the engine ran normally again. I even drove it for about 10 mins with RACV following me to see if would happen again, it did not. However, about 2 minutes later, the engine decided to go into limp mode again. This time however, the temperature gauge was all the way up and there was a warning tone. I immediately pulled over and called RACV again. Again it was about an hour till they arrived and again the bloody thing decided to run fine when he arrived.

It appears that when the engine is cold, the engine runs fine, but when operating temperature is reached the engine starts to sputter. The car Is currently with my mechanic and he has diagnosed it to be an ECU problem where it does not want to get out of “Cold Start & warm up/Cold Drive-Away Strategies”.

So my questions are:
Have you ever experienced this before?
If so, how did you solve it?
Could this be the result of a Chip that has gone wrong?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance
Peter. P

can you run the car without the chip? if it still does it without the chip in, it isnt a chip issue

Sounds to me like a dirty J3 port. Follow the instructions in the install guide and make sure it's 100% clean.

Cheers,
Jason

Hi Jason, Hi ranga,

No, the same problem occurs when the chip is removed.

It turns out that the fault code that were pulled were 511 and 796 (cant do anything about 796 as not a Fairmont).

But my mechanic does not know what caused it. The only thing that he could attribute it to corrosion on the chip.
My mechanic deals with a place called Injectronics. They however, said that these ECUs were known to have this problem which I find a little hard to believe as it has taken over 15 years for the problem to occur.

If this chip is ruined, I may in the market for another one Jason.

Your photo looks like there is water damage on the chip? If the ECU or J3 got wet you'll have issues (obviously).

Also, was it installed per the install guide with a piece of duct tape holding the chip in? Failing to do this can cause damage to both the ECU and J3 as the chip will wriggle itself loose (gravity + vibration) and can short out the J3 terminals.

Either way, this is not a usual problem and you will have to find the cause.

Cheers,
Jason

Hi Jason,

Yes, the chip was installed as per the instructions you provided and was secured with duct tape.
Have no idea how it could be water damage. Perhaps, condensation in the cold???

Well, like I said, I will be in the market for a new chip.
I will email you soon with details.

Thanks Jason.

Peter. P

No problems.

Make sure you sort out your ECU first, and look into the source of that leak - sunroof drain hose, leaky windscreen, leaky heater core or blocked heater box drain are all causes of water in the passenger footwell, aside from the obvious ones.

Cheers,
Jason

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