The ford parts catalog says 6THB and 6TJB is EL GT man and auto..

but catalog only goes upto feb97...

So maybe a EL GT update..or even a FBT?

also checked a bit in it ising NVMG86 and found MAF transfer is different as well...but is different to EB GT MAF transfer...which i thought were the same...

Guys,

Would anyone have a MAF transfer function for an AU Housing with E series sensor...

just like to see what sort of difference there is in the figures...

We just got our first shipment of Dan's AU Upper Arm Adaptors! These things really do transform the cornering ability of your eseries, and are in our view the best suspension modification you could do after lowering. Grab a pair while they're hot at http://www.tiperformance.com.au/shop/au ... -adaptors/

Cheers,
Jason

I thought I would put up a couple graphs from my data logging to illustrate the problem.

Here is a normal WOT run to redline starting from idle and a dead stop:

It goes a little over-rich above 5000 rpm - which I will be tuning out - but otherwise AFRs are OK.

Here is another run (less than 3 minutes later), snapping the throttle open from about 30% throttle and 2400rpm:

It instantly goes rich to 13.0 AFR as it should, then spikes lean for over a full second, peaking at 16.5 AFR , before dropping back to 11.8 AFR as in the previous run.

This lean spike is fairly consistent - happening whenever I mash it from cruise revs and low load. It hasn't caused any damage yet, or even noticeable pinging, but this can't be good for the engine long-term.

Has anyone seen this effect before? Any ideas what might be causing it?

Thanks.

Hi my car is running a el ecu with a time chip tuned to what I've done but my question is will I need a retune after doing a bbm conversion? Also I run 5degrees advanced ignition timing will the ecu advance the timing by 10degrees after the conversion or is it unable to because my car is not compatible? The car is a 1990 fairlane. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Not sure if it will help your issue, but I've finally all but ironed out my acceleration hesitation by increasing the Injector Min Pulse Width. Initially I've gone to 295 but in the next tune I'm going to try 305 - it doesn't actually hesitate any more but there's no "snap" either. In my case I suspect the increase in MAP momentarily overpowers the fuel pressure overhead in the injectors (keep in mind they're bank/batch fire so 2 are exposed to raw MAP without port drawing). It's of course also possible this is a symptom of faulty fuel pressure regulator - I guess I should go thru the whole process of checking my rail pressure etc.

I also think the new AUSSIE MADE O2 sensor I fitted last year is faulty - because since fitting Jason's first tuned J3 I've had an ongoing problem of any tune going good for 4 to 5 days then exhibiting signs of shifting lean - but in the current tune where I've increased that min injector pulse I've also richened the Fuel Stabilised table across the board and bugger me I can go back to running AND KEEPING the bottom / midrange timing it likes - ie. like about +10 degrees.

She's back to going like a cut cat even in stinkin hot / humid weather

I have a ti chip and el ecu in my ea after unplugging my isc like I was advised to but now it's annoying the hell out of me. I was wondering if using a el isc will allow my car to idle properly?

Who advised you to unplug the ISC? Not me!

Set the base idle following the instructions supplied with the chip. If you have rev hanging issues, follow the troubleshooting section of the same instructions.

Unplugging the ISC or drilling holes in the throttle plate is not the correct solution.

Cheers,
Jason

No not you. I tried every possible way to get the damn thing to idle correctly but it either sat at about 1000rpm or it stalled.

No not you. I tried every possible way to get the damn thing to idle correctly but it either sat at about 1000rpm or it stalled.

Did you follow the instructions to the letter?

Is there a chance that some of your mods weren't listed when the tune was done?

Got any Wideband AFR logs or dyno data to help do a retune?

Cheers,
Jason

Each time I get the money for a run either something breaks or something comes up. All the mods were there.

I'll put the el isc on it and see if that works as my standard one may be the problem. Apart from the plug on it is there any other difference that may make it play up. My el one has a pipe with a plastic plug on it what is that for and will it affect anything?

I already said the EL one is not required.

Cheers,
Jason

What intake are you running (Throttle Body)?