is lmg set up to tune these chips yet? i heard he was going to just not sure if it has happened yet

Hi James,

Yep had a chat to Paul out there, he was keen but I haven't heard anything for a week or two. Give them a call if you're interested, i'm sure that'll hurry them along.

Cheers,
Jason

yep will do that tomorrow. were purchasing a raptor for my cousins el soon and need someone to tune the j3 that comes with it

Here's one that's a little different. Did a chip for a GQ Patrol! EL XR8 engine conversion, so set him up with a Manual bin, removed smartlock and tweaked the spark etc. Car has front and rear LSD, 3" lift, and a bunch of other stuff. Check it out @ http://www.tiperformance.com.au/owners_ ... .php?id=94

Thats might of been the dude off the outerlimits forum, I recommended one of your chips after he got a price from Chiptorque for $750!

if you purchase a kit from raptor with the j3 supplied, it does come with a pre loaded tune to suit the car the kit is for..
obviously it might need tweeking after fitting and a dyno run, but im sure the tweeking is part of the price of the tune..

otherwise if your wanting to do a full custom tune? see about getting the raptor kit minus the chip and tune( its cheaper), and go with a ti j3 or something of your choice..
then get it tuned on the dyno...

Ahh, it was you that mentioned us! Thanks a heap for the recommendation and kind words. He was a very happy chappy when it plugged in and all worked. I like the conversions, something a little different. Good stuff

I've had my car tuned with a TI Chip recently. When it was tuned I didnt have the ISC connected but now I'm trying to understand what is going on.
I cannot get the thing to idle properly with the isc connected. I have the TPS set at around .6-.65V in the closed position. I back off the idle screw to lower the idle and the lowest it will go is about 950rpm (going by the instrument cluster), before it will stumble and often die.
If I get it to stay at 950, then while driving there is massive rev hang.

So I have resorted to driving with no ISC again until I can get back to have the chip fiddled to get it all to work.

What I'm having trouble understanding is how, without the ISC connected, that I can get rev hunt.
I get the car to idle well at 950rpm (same deal as with the ISC, any lower and it will stumble and die).
After a blip of the throttle it will settle to just over 1000rpm, sometimes up to 1050rpm, and sit there for a 10 or so seconds, then drop to 950 where it will stay.
If I lower the rpm at all below 950, it will do similar where it will settle to ~1000 after a throttle blip and drop to 950, but after few more seconds it will drop to ~500, give a couple of bucks then bounce up to over 1000, then drop low enough to initiate the "start" sequence in the ECU and begin the process again (1000-950-500-1000-low).
If I set the idle to a bit over 950, the car will sit a fluctuate about 30-50rpm up and down.
What is causing this hunting/stumbling if the ISC is not connected?

i would set the tps to .7v .. and see what difference it makes, as .7v is the factory voltage on closed throttle in a 6 cyl...

I checked my wife's car (EL Fairmont Ghia) and the voltage on hers was 1V at closed throttle. Is that how TPS's act when they fail or are auto's supposed to be higher?

On mine, anything over 0.7V causes the car to rev up at which point I need to back off the idle screw heaps to get it down to a respectable idle.
I have tried setting mine at over 0.7V but it doesnt feel good on the road, it has a large flat/dead spot at part throttle. That could be the tune though, I might have to test this with the chip removed to see what it does.

Also is the TPS voltage supposed to be set with the engine running, or just with the ign to 'on'?
There is about 0.1-0.15V difference between the two.

Your first problem was tuning it with the ISC disconnected, then plugging it back in and expecting it to work perfectly! It was unplugged for a reason obviously

If the ISC is not present the ECU can control idle speed by altering fuel and timing.

Try these things (in this order) and see how you go.

Base idle should be set with the ISC disconnected, to 750rpm or as low as the car will idle. If you are idling at 1000rpm either the low-end tune is shot or your cam is massive. I've yet to see a cam that required an idle that high! Ensure you dont have any vacuum leaks and that your idle AFRs are OK. It will normally only hunt when rich (or lean).

Correct TPS voltage is essential. You should have very little reason to 'drill out' the EL TPS unless it is faulty.

You also have to ensure the clutch switch is wired correctly (if you've done a manual conversion), and the Power Steering Pressure sensor and O2 sensor also affect warm idle and if they are not operating correctly can cause rev hang when warm.

Hope this helps...

Jason

Thanks for the tips, gives me some stuff to look at and think about.

Its a CMS3 cam. The reason for the TPS being drilled is because the engine has a 68mm T/B. And also to get it to run without the ISC I had to increase the idle to compensate for disconnected ISC.
Right from the get go, I wasnt able to get it to idle below 950rpm.
I have done a manual conversion and the neutral switch is just bypassed with a loop of wire. I'm assuming you meant the neutral switch not the clutch/cruise switch.
The correct resistors are in the correct places, and the above mentioned sensors are ok.
The chip is still an 'auto' tune, albeit not the right one for an EL Ghia so my power steering is very heavy at the moment... haha.

A vacuum leak is looking like a possibility. I will have to go buy some aerostart and have a hunt around to see what I can find.

What is the correct TPS voltage? And as I asked before when do you check it? KOEO or KOER?

KOEO. 0.7v.

If you have backed the screw out all the way and it wont idle lower, either you have a vacuum leak or the TB is not sealing. I would put the stock TB on it.

The idle will drop, it will stutter and stall at anything below ~950rpm.

I am going to give it a good going over this weekend, and the stock T/B is something I was going to try.

OK. Well, as above, if it wont idle due to over fuelling, you will need to get it properly tuned in those load cells. Maybe the high idle screw meant the tuner couldn't get it to idle low enough to tune those cells.