Yep, there should be at least a few guides some searching should turn up. If not then IMO it'd be fair enough to raise a topic asking for help with a link.

For general info: the BBM is vacuum operated by a solenoid valve in the engine bay. That valve has 2 wires - one is direct power to the valve and the other is ground which goes to the ECU - ie. the valve is operated by the ECU opening or closing the ground. You need to be using an EL ECU tho - ie. the EL ECU will be a straight fit into the EB2 / ED ECU connector but the pinout for BBM will be empty in the connector. To power the BBM Solenoid Valve in my ED I found an unused wire with female connector near the washer bottle that had 12V with ignition on - a male blade connector fitted perfectly into that female and with power supplied with ignition on it was perfect for the BBM Solenoid Valve (presumably it's the power for wagon rear washer motor - so would be operating via a fuse so even in that respect it's perfect). I then canibalised an old ECU connector (from wrecker) to get hold of a connector pin socket with length of wire attached which I fitted to the ECU connector in the correct location for the EL ECU pin that drives the BBM Solenoid Valve (the ground wire from the BBM valve).

All this should be covered by the guides of course.

The other notes I'd make are that I personally found an EF intake pipe (ie. from Airbox to Throttle Body) to NOTICEABLY perform better than the single EL style pipe. People have poo poo'd this when I've mentioned it but that was my EXPERIENCE with it - the difference was clear. Also, I found that setting timing to the normal ED timing mark worked best - ie. after I fitted the EL ECU etc. I went and set the base timing to the TDC mark (it was my understanding that EL has a single mark which is TDC) but it ran like s**t - so I reset it to the original ED 10* BTDC and it went great. In short - do the manifold mod but leave your timing alone.

BRILLIANT! cheers for kick start greenmachine.

Just wanted to ask, i have a choice between lukey, redback and hurricane extractors (all the same price) to be fitted soon. Was thinking about lukey, but then was told they were bought out by "Walker" (im not 100% sure on this). Most people told me redback aren't known for making headers. Hurricanes are manufactured at Liverpool Exhausts in N.S.W, i rang them up and instead of pacemakers they referred hurricanes and pushed really hard for them. Well i only have 3 to choose from, for the price i want. The price is $700 fitted with a hi-flow cat. Most places quoted me $850 plus.

Any ideas or opinions? Have read all of the topics on extractors, not many seem to mention these, except for lukey's.

Thanks,
Jas.

Hey buddy...

I have pacemakers...

The thing pacemakers have that no one else does (coz pacemaker have a patent on it) is pipe over cone technology...



Seen pacemakers always have the pipes over the cones and that leave no "sharp" edges inside the cone that catch the fumes and hinder flow...

Now this is patented to pacemaker... So they claim they do it... others may do this but they can't say they do in their advertising because pacemaker can sue them...

Seen in the second photo is what most other makers to by sticking the pipe up inside of the cone and you can see where the fumes would get caught and not flow properly...

Other than this I really don't know much about extractor design...

When I was buying them this is what led me to getting pacemakers...

Thats one thing to look out for anyway...

Cheers...

Ok, as has been said - 4480 are for top end power and 4499 are for low / midrange.

The difference I believe is that 4480's have smaller diameter primaries. I'm fairly sure JMM also go with smaller diameter primaries and 3-2-1 layout.

The big thing about whatever type you get is that they be the same basic layout as 4480 / 4490 paceys - ie. 3-2-1 where two groups of three primaries feed into 2 intermediate sections that then come together to the one outlet.

The other type you'll find are 2-3-1 where three groups of two primaries feed into three secondaries (ie. one secondary for each pair of primaries) which then feed into the single outlet - this was the design of the extractors (Genie I think) I had prior to getting Pacemaker 4480's. I never did notice a performance improvement when I replaced the stock exh manifold with those 2-3-1 extractors (2.5 hi-flow cat + cat back had been on a year before that), but 4 years later when they cracked and I had the Pacemaker 4480's fitted I got an IMMEDIATE and NOTICEABLE push-in-the-a*** power improvement from idle right thru the range. Easily 5-8kw - I was rapt.

I have heard this around town too... The local production boys run tuned length for top end power and untune for bottom end power (mostly they are chasing top end power)...

This is why I went for the cheaper 4499's as the car rarely sees more than 3k (unless I'm in a hurry)...

I have a set of jmm race series extractors and they use the pipe in cone design like pacemaker and the primarys are a bit smaller to increase the scavenging effect (suction of exhaust gases from the cylinder). They run the 3-2-1 design but the secondaries are larger than others and longer which increases torque and throttle response considerably (which helps down low) and they work heaps better up top!!!

There is one catch though, as they are race series, the length of them is designed to bolt straight up to a 2.5" system with no cat (unless the system is modified to include cat!).

I do believe their scavenger series extractors are similar but the secondaries are a tiny bit smaller and are shorter (to allow for the cat).

Nathan

i got a 99 au fairmont. i want it to be a sleeper. it's completely stock at the moment . i just got the full history and i want to know where to start?
engine bay or else where ?
help?

What you Want out of your car determines what you do...

Yes sleeper... You chasing mass power? Mild power? Forced induction, want to stay N/A?

I suppose you start with the exhaust side of the motor:

You can put on a set of pacemaker or similar extractors... The Falcon Cat will flow perfectly fine for a N/A car... and then a 2.5" Exhaust with a resonator if you don't want to draw too much attention...

Intake: Open it up... Do yourself a custom job like most... Or spend big bucks and buy an SS inductions set up for similar effect... Pod filter and the like... Bigger throttle body if your pushing for every minor kw you can gain in N/A...

Is a tickford motor being a fairmont (or are these only lanes?) If not you can install a tickford head or even the VCT head... You can go to wade or similar and buy a cam and install that for a moderate increase...

Go to TI Performance and buy a chip and them to write up a custom tune to better suit whatever cam you buy and really get the most out of it...

Visuals wise... nice CD player... maybe custom dials... lower a bit... your a after a sleeper so just nice non stand out 17 or 18" wheels... Spoiler if it doesn't have one... Go to Kurnell Kustoms and get a fibreglass bulge bonnet...

Not really that many options for AU in terms of modifying...

Us E series owners are the ones for modifying as we put what was in the AU and like into our older cars and make them personalised and feel that bit more modern...

Like I said... you only do the mods to suit what you want out of it... That's why we modify... Do things to our own taste and make the car personalised... We come up with different ideas and problems and help each other out and try other's mods...

Goodluck...

Tim

I'd personally fit a cam and do 2.5 exhaust from the cat back first - all for similar cost to extractors and cat back exhaust - THEN do extractors further down the track. You'll get more change in performance straight up even tho you won't be getting full potential out of the cam just yet - that will remain something to look forward to later on

Keep in mind good extractors will definitely give some improvement in performance - certainly will help unlock the full potential of a cam - but it's not like the std exhaust manifold is total crap and actually crippling the engine or anything like that - for a factory manifold the ford one is pretty decent.

Put it another way, I went with full exhaust mods straight up for a "mmm, yeah - I think it definitely feels a bit livelier" result,... - then after a year finally got around to fitting a cam and my reaction was "&^%$#@ - why didn't I do this FIRST!!!!"

On the subject of exhaust system: after 4 different complete systems over a period of 10 years and various muffler combos in between the complete system changes I have discovered that the BEST type of muffler - ie. virtually no restriction with excellent note and very good silencing is "straight thru dogleg" style - ie. Lukey LSU17272 I think is the part number of the right type.

Two of those - one in place of the main muffler and one in the tailpipe in place of the rear muffler (should be similar size and shape so no drama with fit) - will give a system that to be frank most people would consider too QUIET - yet it's all straight thru. Probably best to try out only one in the rear muffler position - ie. straight pipework from cat to diff - then have one fitted in the main position if just the one is too loud for you.

A straight thru resonator - ie. hotdog or preferably a chamber type WITH INLET AND OUTLET IN LINE - is a good idea between the cat and main muffler position, but that can be done last IF you have any resonance issues once you've decided whether to go with one or two doglegs in the muffler positions.

I'm sure RedBack sells an off the shelf ready-to-fit 2.5 tailpipe + rear muffler that has a straight thru dogleg design (may be one of those LSU17272's I suppose - is certainly same type of thing).

DO stick to your guns insisting on the staight thru dogleg type - ie. from outside they're same shape and size as std mufflers - ie. flat oval - and have offset inlet and outlet or maybe one is centre - I can't recall now. DON'T be talked into barrel type straight thru resonators or oval shaped centre chamber "straight thru" type mufflers - NEITHER will give as nice a note and silence as well as the dogleg type.

Budget solution: The redback off the shelf 2.5 tailpipe with straight thru dogleg type rear muffler (was something like $135 fitted 3 years ago) + straight 2.5 pipe from cat to tailpipe (should cost &^%$ all) and a reasonable but not too wild cam such as JMM Dev3 (maybe too pricey for budget solution) or equivalent Wade product.

okay i got a few ideas from that. thanks guys.

Hi guys im new to the forum and iv been reading alot and it sounds like everyone knows their stuff, iv got a 04 BA XT Falcon, iv put lukey extroctors, highflow cat off an STI WRX, 2 1/2 inch lukey sports system and lukey panel filter and iv had the front section of the air box cut out... as im a P plater shes got more than enuf power but i really want some more bottom end power, everything i have done seems to be pushing the top end power... Just thort id see what people would suggest to do to get that bottom end power?

Im looking at getting the diff ratio changed so im hopeing that may give a bit better bottom end power, im also looking at an X3 flash tuner... would love to hear everyones feedback as you all seem very knowledgabe...

Thanks guys

Bottom end can be achieve by getting onto someone like Wade Cams, who are a sponsor on here, and say this is what I have, and this is what I want from it, and what cam shafts would you recommend...

Unfortunately your up for a bit of money to do this on a B series as you have to buy 2 cam shafts as they are DOHC... I did that and said them I want the best low down cam shaft for an ED and they told me the 1636 was best for my motor for off the line torque... I was in no need of a massive cam...

Un-tuned length extractors are supposed to work lower in the rev range than tuned length extractors, they are for high rpm... Well this is the theory of the local motor sport blokes anyway, never seen any proof either way... Although you already have extractors...

Otherwise yeah a slightly higher diff ratio, although I'd be unsure what's in there at the moment... E and A series autos are usually around the 3.08 range... So maybe an XR diff if they are 3.45's like in the E and A series...

Thats about all that comes to mind without forced induction...

Hi all,

looking at putting central locking in the XG.ive got the actuators from an el ready to go.

Is there anything else i require? and how do i go about installation, where do actuator plug into ect?

Cheers
Dan

Central Locking is part of the smartlock system...

Does your XG have smartlock? (not familiar with the model)

If not then trying to integrate it would have to be a nightmare... Might be easier to just go with an aftermarket kit...

That's about all the assistance I can be with that...