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3.9L/4.0L Inline 6 Modification Guide 

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 2:09 pm 
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Ride: '06 BF GT-P

Power: 293 rwkw

Location: Canberra
ACT, Australia

{USERNAME} wrote:
hey neone.....pleez...lol...i hear all these people talkin about bottom end and top end, i dont know wat it means... im pretty well minded wen it comes to engines, but i jus neva asked wat it meant, so i was hopin someone out there can help me...


Depends on the context, when talking power or torque, it'd refer to power/torque ot low or high RPM.
When talking engine parts, top end will be the head and rocker gear, bottom end, the block, pistons, rods, crank etc.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 8:16 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
ooops my bad...anyone out there who has recently put a pod on and noticed the temp changed...sorry


Im tossing up the idea of either that or just a new panel filter, not sure what to do tho.
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 7:32 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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pod in the box is the best :D
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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:04 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: sydney
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can some please point me to where the diagram for making ur own shiftkis is
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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:08 am 
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Post on here about it:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2378

Mechanical Forums for the original documents:
http://www.mechanicalforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=19,

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:19 pm 
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Location: brisbane
QLD, Australia

I am currently piecing together gear for a 190kw ef i really get annoyed when people quote on about high dollar engine upgrades this is something that really pisses me off good on you guys if you can do it with money but i rekon ican do it for 2500 to 2800 standard rebuilt bottom end from an engine shop the rest is in the cam and head e.c.u.s are good for 200kw anyway . the other thing is headers are only as good as the exit speed and angle of discharge of the exaust port if this is not right the headers arent worth the money you payed them . note bigger valves are not always the answer . they may be for your parts dealer or mechanic remember its youre money not theres.there is also a difference between a mechanic and engine builder mechanins fix engines enginebuilders if it goes bang ask the engine builder not the mechanic, he will give you a solution the mechanic will give you the fault !

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:18 pm 
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Ride: EF2 Fairmont Ghia

Location: Eltham
VIC, Australia

yo,

i have an EF series 2 Fairmont Ghia, and im Getting the JMM DEV3HL kit and their 3000 Series Stall Converter, as well as a 600hp fuel pump, and Race Shift will be doing some work on the tranny, as well as an xr6 diff making its way into the rear of the car.

what kind of performance gains should i expect to see, and also, roughly what 1/4mile time should i expect with this kind of setup??

Thanks for your help to.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2006 4:11 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: ED XR6

Location: EAST CANNINGTON
WA, Australia

I've got Genie extractors what's your opinion on them?

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:33 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Perth
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Maybe a diff one would go best in the driveline section?
But anyways:

For an Auto a diff ratio change will make a HUGE difference due to the tall first gear. 3.73:1/3.9:1 is recommended, which means that a speedo correcting device needs to be used (available from Jaycar).
The Manuals have much nicer ratios and go well with a 3.45:1 or 3.73:1 ratio.
It really depends on what work you have done. An auto with a cam is just dieing for a ratio change, as power will start coming on at around 50-60km/h!!! Before then, it will be as if the car is stock, or worse - so by changing ratios you can reach peak torque by as low as 30km/h for example!

In both cases an LSD is best to aid with traction, but for details about the different types of diffs see Interceptors post.


Thanks Vox!

I have an EF auto with STD diff, and was considering putting in a new diff and/or LSD ...would this be worthwhile?

Also, can you post a link to Interceptor's post?

Cheers mate.

 

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QUARTER MILE PB: currently 14.590 @ 96.00 mph ...BOOST AHEAD!!

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:36 pm 
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Here you go:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: S.E Subs
VIC, Australia

{USERNAME} wrote:
I am currently piecing together gear for a 190kw ef i really get annoyed when people quote on about high dollar engine upgrades this is something that really pisses me off good on you guys if you can do it with money but i rekon ican do it for 2500 to 2800 standard rebuilt bottom end from an engine shop the rest is in the cam and head e.c.u.s are good for 200kw anyway . the other thing is headers are only as good as the exit speed and angle of discharge of the exaust port if this is not right the headers arent worth the money you payed them . note bigger valves are not always the answer . they may be for your parts dealer or mechanic remember its youre money not theres.there is also a difference between a mechanic and engine builder mechanins fix engines enginebuilders if it goes bang ask the engine builder not the mechanic, he will give you a solution the mechanic will give you the fault !



best of luck, if u can get 190rwkw from 3000 ill pay you 4000 just to get it done to my car. :)

I take it your an engine builder?

 

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 Post subject: JMM DEV2
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:08 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Joined: 28th Dec 2005

Ride: 97 EL Fairmont Ghia

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

Looking at fitting a JMM DEV2/3 kit in the next few months.

Any suggestion of a good fitter in Sydney for these? Or is it better road trippin it down and getting JMM to do it direct?

Cheers,

Cawer

 

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Last edited by cawer on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:13 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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{USERNAME} wrote:
I am currently piecing together gear for a 190kw ef i really get annoyed when people quote on about high dollar engine upgrades this is something that really pisses me off good on you guys if you can do it with money but i rekon ican do it for 2500 to 2800 standard rebuilt bottom end from an engine shop the rest is in the cam and head e.c.u.s are good for 200kw anyway . the other thing is headers are only as good as the exit speed and angle of discharge of the exaust port if this is not right the headers arent worth the money you payed them . note bigger valves are not always the answer . they may be for your parts dealer or mechanic remember its youre money not theres.there is also a difference between a mechanic and engine builder mechanins fix engines enginebuilders if it goes bang ask the engine builder not the mechanic, he will give you a solution the mechanic will give you the fault !


a 190kw engine would be pretty damn easy to build.

but show me an engine capable of 190 REAR WHEEL KW that you have built for that price.
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 Post subject: ea 1990 model with ef head
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 3:20 am 
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Ride: ea

Location: Morwell
VIC, Australia

Hi i people i have a ea with ef head and im looking for more grunt out of it what are my options
i have been told buy a toyota freak that this( http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php? ... 0&count=60 ) is a good solution however my mate who did this cant give a good idea that keeps it a ford motor i need help for grunt

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:06 pm 
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Ride: EA Falcon Hybrid

Location: geelong
VIC, Australia

hi guys just wantin to put a cam in my ea,

Whats the biggest/best wade cam for a manual that i can use with out doin springs, im also thinkin about gettin the head shaved and some port work or bigger valves, what valves go in out of other cars, (XR6's ) and is it any good getting the flywheel lightened.

Cheers, DAN

 

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