|
TROYMAN |
|
|||||
|
it would work well except for when it rains lol.your pod will get wet
i got a pod mounted inside the air box with the xr snorkle but ive cut 2 x 2" holes under my air box with 2 x 2" flex hoses going to a upside down cut au snorkle at the bottom of the front bumper.. and it works good.
|
|||||
Top | |
fresh 87' |
|
||
|
yea that was one of the problems plus dirt and mud! but thats the beaut idea mate i would never have thawt of that cheers for that info it looks like they way ill go with mine
|
||
Top | |
wychewes |
|
||
|
Thank you Voxace .
I just joined this site to get some ideas on how upgrade my NA Fairlane performance wise and I stumbled across your guide. Man....have you saved me some research thanks so much your efforts are greatly appreciated by me. Now I have a step by step work schedule for the old girl although I am on a tight budget at least I can do things bit by bit. THANKS AGAIN (buy ya a beer if we ever meet)
_________________ Fairlane Rules |
||
Top | |
eb0 |
|
||
|
this site made my day this post made my car im not leavin this site now i wish i would have found it earlier please keep up the good work so all us noob's learn thanks heaps guys
|
||
Top | |
ecco2 |
|
||
|
Hey, im new to this website and i currently own a falcon au with a 2.5" cat back exhaust n im looking for further mods, any ideas would be great, thanks guys!
Also i live in the newcastle area, so any places to get the stuff cheap around here would be good! cheers! |
||
Top | |
adamadams |
|
||
|
Does anyone if I was to install a xr6 computer chip into my standard EF Falcon from the same model will it make any difference
|
||
Top | |
voxace |
|
|||
|
Will not make much difference, if any. If you get an XR6 cam or similar mild cam it may help a little though.
|
|||
Top | |
eric.kells |
|
||
|
I have an AU2 4.0L ute. I have been researching some induction for my car. I have fitted a BA XR6 Turbo inductiion snorkel and air cleaner set up which includes another snorkel behind the headlight to my ute. (Cost me around $250 from the wreckers) I am very happy with the results. Seems to have a marked improvement. I believe this is a reasonably cheap option and requires very little mods.
Just need to save up for the headers and exhaust system now. |
||
Top | |
Greenmachine |
|
||
|
I've meant to make this comment on this thread for ages - but one thing that works great for a car that will be used for around town - ie. for good acceleration to 60 / 80 kph (ok to 100 actually) AND it gives really good fuel economy - is to simply advance the std cam by one tooth on the gear - ie. move the gear one tooth in the chain to advance the cam - you need to think carefully about what you're doing because it's very easy to get mixed up and go the wrong way.
If you're not mechanical you should get an experienced person to do it as it involves relieving tension on the chain - and I can tell you now any mechanic is going to give you a hard time - but I've done it and it works - the car will be much livelier up to 3500 - 4000rpm but will be somewhat slow to continue accelerating above that. In practice this means as I said, lively performance up to maybe 100 - definitely 60 - 80 for pretty much ZERO cost - plus the fuel economy improvement is really good. This would be a perfect mod for Taxis. In effect you're making your engine behave like the bottom end setting of a VCT engine.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
Top | |
FordFairmont |
|
||
Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
to advance it a tooth would be something like over 10 degrees wouldnt it?
seems like way too much |
||
Top | |
Greenmachine |
|
||
|
At the time, I did the maths and came to a figure of 8 degrees. Hey, all I can say is it worked ok - there were no bent valves and the car felt VERY "sporty" unless you tried to push it up above 100kph or so (ie. needed much more than 3500rpm or so) - in which case it felt very flat (much like a std VN Commondung).
After that I fitted an ED XR6 cam which I found to be very good in the top end but after the advanced std cam was very disappointing in the bottom end and midrange (I figured that to be because the XR6 is supposed to have higher comp) - so I altered the dowel notch (there were no adjustable cam gears available at that time) to give what I estimated to be about 4 degrees advance. It was still not quite as lively as the advanced std gear down low but was at least similar in the midrange and much better in the top end - ie. still revved to the limiter strongly and quickly. I ran that advanced EDXR6 cam for a long time until I fitted the JMM cam I still have now. Oh, and during that time I tried a Crow 22825 cam (Stage 2?) and found my advanced XR6 cam shat all over it. I did try the ED XR6 at one full tooth advanced but found oddly enough that it was a tiny bit less strong than the advanced std cam down low, about the same in the midrange and most significantly had lost a lot up top (tho still better than advanced std cam - it was about the same as std cam at std timing in the top). The slight advance on the XR6 cam was my attempt to try and get some of the full tooth std cam advance bottom end goodness whilst also getting back to at least a bit better than std cam on std timing in the top end and as such it pretty much achieved that and I was happy. If I hadn't got back the top end to my satisfaction I was going to either put it back to a full tooth advanced - which would have meant 12 degrees total advance which hopefully would have given me overall a bit better than std cam advanced one tooth in the full range - or gone back to std cam advanced one tooth. I never did have the balls to just try it in the full tooth advanced position just to see how it was (I was actually concerned about valves hitting). I suspect that when they developed the XR6 cam, Tickford actually concentrated on improving top end flow, then had to increase the compression to try and get back some of the bottom end they sacrificed to do that - ie. rather than upping compression and then designing a cam to suit.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
Top | |
kisiel |
|
||
|
hello, i have purchased an el intake for my eb motor which was recommended in this mod guide, perhaps i have read the advice incorrectly but i dont know if i have to change the loom and computer(forgive me im a stone mason not a mechanic). i have the manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, air box and hose. do i need to buy the wiring loom too?
Is there any info about this modification in detail or can anyone recommend a mechanic in the mornington peninsula that has experience in this mod????? if the info is available in this website could someone point me in the right direction. cheers |
||
Top | |
TimmyA |
|
|||
|
Hi,
and welcome to fordmods... I'd either be doing a search for some of BenJ's mods or Troyman's mods... I'm not sure what had to be done, you might have been able to modify the EB one, or you might have had to modify the EF/EL one... But I get the feeling there was some loom mofiying either way to do this mod to EB's... Maybe different plugs? Unless the EL straight away fits and it was the EB I saw modified to reach all the things it had to... One of these two boys would be able to help you though as they have both done it to their early E series falcons... They might even have pics of what they modified, if anything at all... Cheers, Tim
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} |
|||
Top | |
Olive Xm |
|
|||
|
If you un-tape the loom it will reach, But you will need to run two wires for the BBM activation and to activate that you will need a EL ECU or a RPM switch
|
|||
Top | |
kisiel |
|
||
|
many thanks for the intel, appreciated.
|
||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 24 guests |