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steedy |
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So if I had a working phone at the moment I could include some pictures, but for now you're going to have to use your imagination.
I need to change the leads (and probably the distributor cap soon) on my EL i6, but am having a bit of trouble actually getting to them. At the plug, they come out fine, but as you guys probably know, the dizzy is right under the inlet manifold, making the leads super hard to get to. I am only just able to get my super long fingers (hello ladies ) under it, but it's still tough to actually pull them off, and I don't have a pair of pliers that can fit through there either. If that wasn't enough, from near the 6th cylinder up to the distributor, all the leads go through what looks like loom tubing (that black coiled PVC stuff), which in itself is hard to get to as that too is under the inlet manifold. It also means that I cant take the leads off the cap one at a time to replace them, as I can't fit them back up the tubing. Please tell me I don't have to take off the whole inlet manifold to change something as stupidly simple as ignition leads and a distributor cap?
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bunghole |
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Try using a long screw driver. You can fit your arm around to the right side of the manifold and reach it from there too.
Just keep at it you'll eventually work out the easiest way
_________________ vaaaaaauuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmm ppsshhhhhhhhhhhhhtt vaaaaauuuummmmmm |
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Pakrat |
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Try taking the leads off the plugs and undo the cap and pull it out.
Take the air box and intake pipe out. |
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steedy |
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Pakrat wrote: Try taking the leads off the plugs and undo the cap and pull it out. Take the air box and intake pipe out. Yeah I had taken the intake pipe out already to make a little bit of room, it didn't seem to me that taking the whole airbox out would've helped at all. But I'll try that tomorrow, with taking the cap and all the leads out in one hit. One problem though; getting it all back in? If I did it that way it'd be easy enough to pull it all out I assume, but I'd still have to feed it in between the inlet manifold wouldn't I? Unless I run the leads over the top or something, like I've seen some people do.
_________________ The gene pool could do with a little bit of chlorine... |
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Pakrat |
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Going back on just put the cap on and line up the leads as per markings and push them o. With something like a extention bar, long screwdriver ect
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evxr6 |
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If you can afford them, get a set of these long handled, long nosed pliers.
I got a supercheap set to do precisely this and they have proved to be infinitely useful for a lot of other little jobs. Cheers, Evan
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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Greenmachine |
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Yep, the only practical way to do it is to release the leads from the spark plugs and rocker cover clips - ready to feed them down thru the manifold runner gap - then pop the dizzy cap clips and carefully slide the whole cap off and then extract the whole shebang - ie. feeding the leads down into the gap as you go.
Once you have the cap + leads out you just replace the leads same-same and then fit it the same way in reverse - BUT!!! - be real careful getting the cap back in place that u don't inadvertantly bugger the centre button - ie. by catching it sideways on the rotor. To get the leads back thru, you place the cap somewhere that you have reach for the leads, then feed them up thru the gap one at a time until you have the ends of all six thru and ready to grip and ease up as you work the cap into place. I always considered tying pieces of string on the ends of the leads before I removed the cap - ie. so you have long lengths of string going down thru the manifold gap and out from under once you have it all clear - then cut or untie them and retie them to the new leads and use the strings to help get them back thru. I never actually ended up doing it but keep it in mind as I think it has potential for making things a tad easier. If ur doing the leads u should really go the whole hog and do a new cap and rotor too - and to avoid TFI Issues I'd raplace that module and the Hall Effect device in the top of the dizzy while ur at it unless u know for sure they've been done in the last 5 years. ONLY USE BOSCH TFI STUFF - not any no name crap. Taking the airbox right out (including the snout of course) - AND undoing the TFI plug so it can be dropped out of the way - both help a LOT. I can't remember if it actually helps too, but don't be shy to pop ur electric fans unit out too if it looks like it might give you more room or better view - ie. it's real easy to remove and refit - 10mm bolt on each side near the top and two electrical connectors and she just lifts out (move the small header tank hose as necessary to allow room to move).
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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steedy |
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Greenmachine wrote: I always considered tying pieces of string on the ends of the leads before I removed the cap - ie. so you have long lengths of string going down thru the manifold gap and out from under once you have it all clear - then cut or untie them and retie them to the new leads and use the strings to help get them back thru This sounds like a really good idea, I'll be giving it a shot on the weekend. Seeing as I need to take the distributor out anyway, I may as well replace it. Cheers heaps for all the tips though! Greenmachine wrote: If ur doing the leads u should really go the whole hog and do a new cap and rotor too - and to avoid TFI Issues I'd raplace that module and the Hall Effect device in the top of the dizzy while ur at it unless u know for sure they've been done in the last 5 years. ONLY USE BOSCH TFI STUFF - not any no name crap. Yeah I'd honestly have no idea. I've had a look in the workshop manual, and all the stuff for the TFI is in there. If I can get a hold of one I'll do it myself, if not I'll just take it in.
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steedy |
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Well that was a bastard of a job! Greenmachine's idea with the string definitely helped with getting the leads back through, but it was still bloody difficult. I went to Burson to get the cap, and they didn't have the TFI module, so I didn't bother with that, and just did the leads and cap.
Taking out the fans, as well as the airbox and snorkel helped quite a bit as well.
_________________ The gene pool could do with a little bit of chlorine... |
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ILLaViTaR |
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I removed it as a whole like most here but instead of the strings just grabbed all 6 leads and shoved them through the manifold gap, the leads are still long enough for you to see the numbers on the cap then you can just tug them and see which is which, put them in the rocker cover clips, slide the cap up and then plug them in, takes no time at all!
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steedy |
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Yeah well I wasn't able to get any part of my arm close enough to feed them through, so I used one piece of string and cable tied all the new leads together so they were like one unit when I pulled them through
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