|
smee |
|
|||
|
I've a EF mont with climate, loosing refrigerant somewhere, Can I just get an adaptor made up (thread size?) and put in compressed air ? (instead of more gas to leak out)- to find the leak?. It has that green gas leak s**t in it
what pressure is the normal system at? and will it stuff anything by using just air- does the system have to be run (ie clutch engaged?) or will I see the leak just with the air in? |
|||
Top | |
hellbent_ef |
|
|||
|
If it had the green leak liquid(can't member the name), run the air con, with clutch engaged and spot the leak....thats what its for.
Once you find the leak, you then know what to fix, whether it be the compressor, condenser or TX valve. Once you find it, and IF its the compressor, (sandens usualy leak front front seal) let me know, I have full reco ones for $300. But pushing air throu it, won't do anything, expect maybe blow a few o-rings....
_________________ <img src="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c260/demoniquekryes/Bothcars1.jpg" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br> |
|||
Top | |
smee |
|
|||
|
The trouble is there's no gas left in it to run the compressor. When I got it, it had no gas in there.I got a sort of part-timer around to regas it, also I said I wanted the suction and fill valves (tyre tube type) replaced, he took them both out but after that he didn't have any spares that suited, anyway he put the old ones back in, guess where the green s**t was. So I want to replace those valves but don't want to waste money on another regas when it leaks out again then havinbg to do it again.
I think it may be the condenser? (behind dash) I've heard that 134A can make U unconsious so I dont want to risk the mussus & kids What I'm trying to get at is can air be used with an adaptor with a tyre type inflator with guage? what pressure is the system normally 40-50 psi ?? |
|||
Top | |
concorde |
|
|||
|
you need refridgerant gas, putting air in won't do anything for cooling.
_________________ 2nd Place Summernats19 SQ Comp, Street Pro 0-600 Class
|
|||
Top | |
hellbent_ef |
|
|||
|
concorde wrote: you need refridgerant gas, putting air in won't do anything for cooling.
Yeah he's doesnt want the air for cooling, just wants to pressurise the system to find his leak, without payin to regas it again. Yes about 40 to 50 is roughly right. The R 134A gas can be toxic to some, thats why we all need licence's to handle it now. Theoretically what you have in mind should work, those valves are the same as tyre valves, so go and buy a couple your self whilst theres no gas. But then again, it might not as you will definately need the clutch engaged to do it. Then take to a diff air con joint and tell them you have a leak, your trying to find it, and they might chuck gas in it for nuthin(or very small charge) if you promise them the work to repair. Just a thought.
_________________ <img src="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c260/demoniquekryes/Bothcars1.jpg" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br> |
|||
Top | |
smee |
|
|||
|
concorde wrote: you need refridgerant gas, putting air in won't do anything for cooling.
Mate, I know that. I want to use air instead of r134 just to find leaks only! |
|||
Top | |
smee |
|
|||
|
Thanks hellbent, there is a way to enage the a/c clutch without gas 'cause he did that too. it was a wire jumpered near the TX valve can't remember which wires thou
|
|||
Top | |
smoke_ |
|
|||
|
i wouldn't be adding air to the system.
i would take it back to the a/c place and they'll run the UV light over the system, as it will glow nice and green as soon as there's a hint of a leak. there will be a bit of dye in the valves. usually it escapes once the a/c fittings are removed, a bit like air escapes the valve on a tyre when you remove it.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
|||
Top | |
trevfrombaysy |
|
||
|
I WOULDNT PUT AIR IN IT JUST CALL AN A/C GUY THEY WILL CHARGE YOU TO GAS IT THEN THEY WILL FIND THE LEAK AND THEY DONT USUALLY CHARGE YOU FOR MORE GAS IF THEY GET THE REPAIR JOB
|
||
Top | |
Greenmachine |
|
||
|
Static pressure is a great way to find leaks IMO. The system should be able to take up to at least about 400psi - I've gone as high as 600 or so to find tricky leaks - but you should use either Nitrogen or dry bottled air to avoid letting moisture in.
As people have said tho, if your system has the dye in it then a blacklight should be the first option to try and find leaks. There are other factors to consider too - ie. if the system has been allowed to equalise with atmospheric pressure then the receiver dryer should be replaced and the system given a good purge with Nitrogen and/or a very good evacuation. Consideration also needs to be given to the oil quantity in the system - ie. from leakage and also the receiver dryer will take some with it plus purging if it's carried out may blow some out. Having an aircon place sort it is the best option tho my opinion of any motor trades people nowadays is very low so I guess you just pays your money and takes your chances.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 94 guests |