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Froudey |
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hey hi y'all just finshed searcheing throuigh 66 pages on irrelevent information i am just after a few answers.....
1) With convert to manual do you need the manual crossmember?? (or will the Auto crossmember work) 2) Is it essentail to change the ecu?? (i own 4speed Eb 3.9 with that seperate TCM) 3) New Tailshaft? (have read that 4 speed will work) 4) pedal box, need to change it? (could i just get a clutch pedal and a bolt) 5) have i missed anything? Things i know... i need a flywheel, clutch kit, clutch cable, various coloured wires for that nutral switch thingy. new centre bit for that console (not a prioty)
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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HaZZa |
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u could weld a shaft on for the pedel box but alot more easy to get a manual one and bolt straight in . tailshaft use ure one. computer u can use just have to get some resitors to put in the line theres a doco in the doco thread about it
xmember should fit will need to get spigot bearing i did the conversion to my eb II bout 6 months ago . |
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HaZZa |
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oh make sure u get the wiring loom with the box.
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SileNceR |
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4 speed shaft works fine
your ecu is the same as ea 4psd auto one, mine has never had issues running manual without a tcu connected; i think it's only in ISC controlling that is slightly different? Get a new spigot bearing also Crossmember - no need to change that, that I know of. pedal box - you will need to pull dash to weld clutch pedal pin in so you may as well just get the pedalbox from a donor car (unless you can't find one?) (also if you do with auto pedalbox you will need to shorten the LHS of the brake pedal and get a manual pedal rubber that won't quite fit.) will pay to reinforce the firewall area also (you may be able to do this on the pedalbox by welding on a peice at the back to sit flat on the firewall on the inside around where the clutch cable goes thru?) and also strengthen the area around the pedal pin this will stop the two main problems that happen. Get a new clutch/clutch cable while you're at it and don't forget to get the flywheel machined before putting it in. This means you won't need to pull it all out again to fix something if you re-use second hand parts etc. Most of all tho, have fun! |
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Froudey |
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cheers big ears:P yeah thanks alot for that you really gave me the answers i was looking for, just a queastion wwhy is it procedure to machine the flywheel????
if a purchase a clutch kit that is exactly that???? are there any aftermarket flywheels or is that not really cost effective.... so by the sounds of it a pedal box is the ideal thing to get. thanks man...
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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voxace |
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twase |
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voxace wrote: You can get a Mal Wood clutch pedal pin, and just bolt a clutch pedal straight up to your auto pedal box. A point to note, although the Mal Wood pin makes the clutch pedal install easier it still suffers from the same problems as factory pin bending. The consensus on here has been use a new cable and keep it maintained. I would add only use a heavier clutch if you need one.
Tomorrow I'm going to post up a full guide with pics on how to do a Manual Conversion
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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twase |
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Froudey wrote: cheers big ears:P yeah thanks alot for that you really gave me the answers i was looking for, just a queastion wwhy is it procedure to machine the flywheel???? When you get a new clutch it will only come in a kit. There seems to be a rule that no one will honour a warranty claim against the clutch unless the flywheel is machined. The concept of machining the flywheel is to make the surface flat so the are no high spots which can cause lose of efficiency and localised overheating. The price is usually 25-45 dollars if you bring them the flywheel.
if a purchase a clutch kit that is exactly that???? are there any aftermarket flywheels or is that not really cost effective.... so by the sounds of it a pedal box is the ideal thing to get. thanks man...
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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voxace |
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twason wrote: voxace wrote: You can get a Mal Wood clutch pedal pin, and just bolt a clutch pedal straight up to your auto pedal box. A point to note, although the Mal Wood pin makes the clutch pedal install easier it still suffers from the same problems as factory pin bending. The consensus on here has been use a new cable and keep it maintained. I would add only use a heavier clutch if you need one.Tomorrow I'm going to post up a full guide with pics on how to do a Manual Conversion Yeah it's purely for ease of installation. |
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rushed |
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voxace wrote: You can get a Mal Wood clutch pedal pin, and just bolt a clutch pedal straight up to your auto pedal box.
Tomorrow I'm going to post up a full guide with pics on how to do a Manual Conversion you are my hero two questions... its just a bolt on no welding? emuchisit? (the malwood pin kit)? |
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voxace |
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Ahhh I think it's $85 from memory.
I'm almost finished the guide, just trying to sort out the electrical side of things. |
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snap0964 |
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voxace wrote: I'm almost finished the guide, just trying to sort out the electrical side of things. I've got a doco I'd written pretty much covering the same - didn't finish the electrical side - I'd intended to cover EA - EL. Let me know if you want a copy, or need help with the electrical part.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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voxace |
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Thanks dude. I didn't realise there was another doco floating around.
But it's kind of an idiots guide to manual conversions. It's like 20 pages long with ALOT of photos. I'm right with the electrical I think, just got some relo's here at the moment slowing me down Cheers, Dave |
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snap0964 |
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NP.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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voxace |
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Here it is all done:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42420 |
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