Sounds the same as my car. The AU belt is a bit longer than the EF/EL belt. I am using the AU belt with no mods to the compressor brackets and it works fine.

AU motor full conversion into an EBII:

ENGINE
- standard AU motor (2001 with 110,000km, 6mths parts & labour warranty) . . . [$450 secondhand]
- AU std alloy sump, modify and strengthen crossmember to clear sump
- AU std harmonic balancer

ACCESSORIES / BRACKETS
- AU/BA/BF alternator (plugs straight in) . . . [$50 secondhand, $30 postage]
- AU bellhousing (get extra bolts for it, particularly the type that join the bridges to the EA-EL bellhousing) . . . [$95 secondhand]
- AU serpentine belt . . . [$60 genuine ford, $40 aftermarket]
- EA-ED engine mounts
- XF-BF starter motor
- EF/EL/XH a/c compressor pump (bend EBII tubing) . . . [$31 secondhand, $20 postage]
- EF/EL a/c pump brackets and bolts (three of each) . . . [$15 secondhand]
- EF/EL/AU p/s pump . . . [upon request came with motor]
- EF-BA waterpump . . . [was removed from motor, fitted a low kay spare i already had]
- EBII fuel pump

INTAKE
- AU lower bbm (including AU injectors & AU fuel pressure regulator)
- AU vacuum solenoid & blue/black valve for bbm switching . . . [$33 secondhand]
- EL upper bbm (I already had this. The AU upper could be used with modification)
- EBII ISC
- EA-EL MAP sensor
- EL accelerator pedal assembly (bolts straight in) . . . [$30 secondhand]
- EL throttle cable . . . [$30 secondhand]
- BA crosspipe, flextube, airbox (dimple guard and swap in EA-EL mounting rubbers to fit airbox), snorkel (shave thermo fan shroud for clearance) . . . [total $85 secondhand]

ELECTRICS
- EA/EB/ED/EL distributor
- EA/EB/ED/EL ignition coil (mounted on strip of 25mm x 3mm mild steel going from manifold bolt to spare engine mount bolt hole)
- fit EBII engine wiring loom to AU motor
- EL ECU 6cyl auto (60 pin, plugs straight in) . . . [$50 secondhand]
- smartlock bypass module (the EL ECU is smartlock but my car is not. The wiring is easy, refer instructions) . . . [$135 module new, $15 postage]
- wire up bbm vacuum solenoid switch (red wire splices to ecu pin 37 or 57 (+12v ignition), green wire to ecu pin 15)
- wire up thermos (blue trigger wire to ecu pin 33, blue with white stripe trigger wire to ecu pin 53, red with green stripe wire add 15A fuse & splice into alternator power wire)
- wire up knock sensor (use AU knock sensor plug scavenged from AU engine harness. White wire goes to yellow wire which goes to ecu pin 46, red wire goes to yellow with a red stripe wire which splices into ecu pin 23) . . . [$33 just wanted plug but got whole secondhand AU engine harness]

COOLANT SYSTEM
- EBII radiator (EF/EL 3-core radiator is best)
- EF/EL/AU upper thermostat housing incl. alloy pipe for rad hose
- EBII lower thermostat housing incl. temp sensors
- EBII-AU gasket for between thermostat housing and block
- AU thermostat and thermostat gasket . . . [$25 new]
- EF/EL upper radiator hose . . . [$25 new]
- EBII lower radiator hose (shortened and fitted over a short section of smaller hose to suit longer & smaller dia water pump pipe) . . . [$30 new]
- EF/EL/AU heater hoses . . . [$40 new]
- 3/4"ID x 6"long heater hose to heater tap . . . [~$2 new]
- reservoir to radiator hose . . . [~$25 new]
- overflow hoses & link hose 2.5m 10mmID . . . [~$15 new]
- EL thermofans (i swapped the fans and wiring to make the plug exit from the lower drivers side) . . . [$85 secondhand]
- EL thermo relays/fuse/wiring (i got most of an EL's engine bay wiring, refer section titled "electrics") . . . [$68 secondhand]

CONSUMABLES
- 10W30 engine oil 6L . . . [$36 new]
- engine oil filter part no.Z9 . . . [$10 new]
- coolant (up to 15 litres). . . [$50 new]

Excellent.

Very thorough. Well Done!!

BenJ

I previously deleted this post but have come up with a use for it.

I give special thanks to troyman, steadyED, benj, and everyone else that helped the engine conversion. Most of the conversion was copying, some of it was innovation.

just went to read once again (got a project in mind) and the piccy's no worky

Well, I changed my motor over because my timing chain let go. Was only doing 20km/h off the inncer city bypass onto kelvin grove road at the time. Engine made a squeak and just stopped.

Total cost, including mod to k-frame to get sump clearance, Alternator for AUII Motor, new oil, filter, sparks, air filter, 10 Cutting discs, a bit of welding, was less than $1200, and took 2 days.

Thrown on a set of Genie's, goin for highflow cat, and 2&1/2" system, with decent resonator to keep it quieter, (no fuzzy attention required), and waiting on quote for supercharger kit.

AUII Engine had only done 32,000km, been sitting in a shed for years. Used ECU & Intake Manifold off old EFII Engine, changed over Crank Angle Sensor, & a few other sensors, and it run's sweet as. Only thing is, it seems to want 98 Octane all the time, else it ping's when you load it up, though I can get away with 1/2 tank refils 98/95. 91. .. (forget it. . good for the lawnmower)

Any suggestions ? ?

Hey mate I have exactly same problem as you with the pinging, same car and engine combo. Good fuel seems to be the only way around it. I put another knock sensor on and it was better for a couple of months but is now pinging again. Im no expert so all I can do is run premium, must be higher comression. Jeez they go like a scalded cat with AU engine.

have you got the knock sensor connected??
and using the colder xr6 plugs also help

Great red now i know what i have to do now.

Hey guys,

im kinda new at this stuff and not that mechanicly minded.
but with all or most conversions i see that most wanna change over complete engines.
the part im wondering is i thought the EA to EL and maybe even AU blocks are the same?
or very close to?

thx for ur time and if im wrong plz let me know as im hunting around for a xr6 performnce head for my 96 el falc.

Cheers

well there are some differences between the blocks but nothing major..with au being most different..
but as in the head you can interchange heads from ea to au they all bolt up fine

yepp i see what your saying in that the heads will all bolt fine as i thought,
so i was thinking for cost and labor reasons that just changing over my head would a
quicker and easier alternative to changing a whole?

will i get a performance increase? or does the bottom end really mean that much?

also after reading alot on this subject i was wondering if anyone knew if a new BA - BF
would fit to a 97 EL block and if their is a power boost worth investing in this idea?

well if you go into detail.. the au has higher compression than the ef and the ef has more compression than the eb..

otherwise the std bottom end is the same as the xr6.. its the xr6 head that makes the difference..

Cheers mate for that,

but i mainly need to know lol if i was to bolt a xr6 head from a e-series or au would
i get the same amount of power as i would if i just slaped in a complete xr engine?

sorry lol if my post was a little confusing.

THX THO!

Id say no, you wouldnt get the exact same power as an XR6 by just changing the head, you'll also need the XR6 cam, 300kpa fuel reg and xr6 ecu to bring it up to where the xr6 is