with option2, why do i need to run an el ecu? cant i just use the ef ecu? as for wiring, am i not able to just use the ecu side loom from the ef and leave the other wiring as nc?
thanks for the help.

never mind, i didn't end up getting the ef, it turned out to be a pile of crap lol

Has anyone fitted a complete EL EEC V to an EA II auto?

I did this conversion to my wifes EA last year and had good results. There were issues with the transmission wiring and smartlock as you would guess but worked everything out. It now runs the EL ecu that also controls the transmission.

So my question is would you guys like me to post the info up or has it already been covered?

It may take a while, as I’ll have to go back over my notes and sort everything out. For example there are transmission and transmission ecu pin outs that were all worked out. I think! Like I said I’ll have to go back over my notes.

I have read all posts to this thread and no-one has so much as mentioned the use of a J3 chip ! like any EFI engine that physically fits into the engine bay can be fitted and wired to the standard ECU, then get the chip programmed for the mods made and away goes the fuel/timing problems which in my experience is the biggest single problem with retro fits. We are Ford freaks and can do anything we want with a little thought ! I have a NC2 and am thinking of doing this!! AU gas dedicated bottom end, port and polished ED head, Crow medium lift cam for bottom end torque, extractors and 2&1/2" system, 6AL ignition, PC91 coil and a custom built or bought intake plenum, AU injectors, high flow air cleaner, rising rate fuel regulator and a good set of iridium plugs, Pro-Comp leads and to make it work a J3 programmed chip. This I figure are cheap modifications that should give the car good acceleration and maintain reasonably good fuel economy, would like to hear any opinions on these minor mods cause there are so many people here doing their thing and testing their ideas.

yes anyone please help ?

what benefits can a J3 do if you got basic mods e,g exhaust and a cam some claim 10-20RW KW but is it realistic for a basic EA with the cam and full exhaust + extractors etc if i were to get the J3 ?

also how did the ED get so many more kw's compared to a MPI EA whats the difference in these motors Ive read the intro etc i know its slightly bigger but that couldn't give it the almost 10KW difference ?

its a combination of ed having slightly larger pistons, larger intake ports, slightly different cam and in late ed there was a increase of compression..
all combined there is your 10kw..

all sounds good except there is no need for a rising rate fuel reg or custom plenum and from my experience pro comp leads are rubbish!...

ahhh ok ,

well nothing i guess thats got nothing on a 1636 cam and some head work and a bored out throttle body cant beat plus an AU head gasket my plan's to get 165-180kw@ the fly wheel lol

With those mods, you MAY get 135rwkw, more like 120rwkw.

The bored out throttle body is a waste of money and make the low rpm even more boggy than it would normally be with a cam.

You would need a relatively fresh AU donor engine and a bigger cam than an auto will like and be driveable, to get close to 15rwkw or more.

Cheers
BenJ

Hey hey, back again! i keep going backwards with my Falcons. (FG to NL, and now to an EA!). Anyway i'm picking up an EA S-Pack manual this weekend, and my question is this. I'm considering swapping in an AU Motor from a wrecked Forte that i have been given. Now as much as i am going to sound like a Sped, i gotta ask. If i do this swap what am i looking at? I Mean i know i will have to mod the sump top clear, but if i do it i want to keep the whole motor, so to get it to run properly with the AU Intake, what do i need extra? Also, Will the EA bellhousing work,or do i need to track down an AU Manual bellhousing. am i better off using a manual ECU from a later model Falcon, or custom ECU?

Below is a list of things to fit the AU engine to the EF/EL.

Fitting the AU Engine to the EA/EB/ED is not a lot different.

Sump mod is not required but recommended. You can mod the EA frame to fit the AU Sump. I think Troyman just adjusted the from bar on the K Frame with a large wacking stick . When we fitted the Barra to Benj's EB, I moved the front bar forward on the K Frame.

If wanting to use the BBM, use an EL ECU. You will need to fit an EF/EL throttle cable as well as an EF/EL upper to the BBM. If you want to use the log manifold then you will be able to use the EA ECU. I am assuming that you want to fit the dizzy. May be easier to fit an EL wiring loom.

Water pump outlet is also larger than the Early water paumps, EA/EB.

If using the AU Head, fit the EA/EB thermostat housing as the temp sensor on the AU is in the back of the head or you can extend the wiring.

Things required to fit AU engine to EF/EL (updated 15/02/14)

1) Sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU. There is are cases of the E series sump being used but filler plates or large quantities of sealant wre used, not recommended. Also you loose the advantage of the cross bolting of the AU sump when using the E series sump, one of the major strength points of using the AU Block.

2) You need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use an EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not. You could use the EB type if you wish as this has an extra fitting for an additional sensor is required at a later date.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the upper section is different to the AU. Also use the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternatively you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

12) You can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

Thank you! Much appreciated. only other question is the bellhousing for the manual? WILL THE ea one work, or do i hunt down an AU one? i'm also assuming that i will need a manual specific EL/EF ECU? I will take my time finding anything i need 'cause the motor in the EA was rebuilt about 18 months ago, so it's not an urgent job. i just want more power!

EA Bellhousing will bolt up but I think it is 4 bolts that don't line up, same for the EB/ED/EF/EL Housing as well to the AU. Grab an AU Housing if you can but the AU will work. EA is only a 3 bolt clutch though.

You will need an EL ECU, you can use an Auto one and use a J3 chip. EF is no good to you as it is coil pack and also 106 pin ECU.

lotza stuff to track down, but i'm thinking it's gonna be worth it. the plan for the EA Is to run it as a tidy daily, and work it a bit so i can have some fun, and embarass commondore owners!

So what if i wanted to put one of these DOHC engines in an AU? An AU t5 bellhousing wont fit behind a DOHC engine will it? And can the J3 chip sort out all the electrical side of things? if so that would be half the struggle taken care of surely.