The "greasy crap" in that picture is the U shaped rubber seal and it has old sealant in the ends....you will need to clear it all out, put the new seal in and put sealant on the ends of the rubber seal. Gregories shows you how (from memory).

hi mate ..

have you given UMR a call ..there at moss st ..ph=3299 1118..
they do good head work ..

can you PM me your addy ..i might pop around if thats ok ..

dave ..

Is there anything wrong with them? or you just doing them because the heads off? their the things on te side of the block that hold the coolant in. if your going to do them, may aswell do as many as you can, if they seem ok and you cant be stuffed leave them.

If you want to do them, get a screw drivers and put it near the top of the indent in the plug, and hit it with a hammer, it will turn on its side, then use pliers to pull them out, with the new ones, you can put a little sealant on them, find a socket the same size as the outer rim, place the welshplug flat and level with its slot, put the socket on it and hit it in with a hammer until its level.



Yes, motorcraft is genuine ford parts.



that is what that tiny rubber gasket in your gasket set was for, the black one i think it was, about 30cm long. you can also put a little gasket goo around it too.



that greasy crap is probably just grease buildup from the powersteering. itll flick little bits around if theres a small leak or something. just get some degreaser onto it and give it a scrub, itll come off. thats the timing chain tensioner, pull that out, reassemble and remember to put it back in properly when you put the cam sprocket back on.




its just carbon/oil build up from the breathers in the rocker cover. small amounts of oil and carbon end up back int he intake and get burnt the 2nd time around, doing no harm, but if you want spray some degreaser or throttle body cleaner down there, just remeber to give it a good rinse out.




welsh plugs leak coolant. the oil will probably just be from minor oil seeps from various locations. ford = oily block is a happy block once again just more the BBM over a bit more, hit the block with some degreaser and a light scrub and wash it down after to clean it up.


hope i got everything


[/quote]

Thanks lads, and thank Gaz, good post there mate.

Just before I attack the block with a wire brush on a drill, just want confirmation.

I am fine not to fill the coolant galleries with rag pieces?

I am fine not to fill with rags the holes where the head bolts will screw in to?

Anything else?

as long as you have compressed air to blow out the head bolt holes.

We have a garden blower thing? lol.

Also how do I get the old coolant out of the block, and how do I get the old oil out of the block?

you need compressed air as in an air compressor.
getting grit and dirt out of the head bolt holes is a must!

do not worry too much about the coolant holes.

with the oil, leave the old oil in the car until the heads back on. that way some of the dust will exit via the sump plug.
when you put new oil in it and get it running, after around an hour worth of idling/driving change the oil again. well thats what i did.

with the coolant, a good way is to put a stocking over the top radiator hole then slide the hose over it. the idea is to catch the crap that would otherwise be swept into the radiator.
also have the thermostat out so it don't get clogged up.
once you drain the coolant after it's been running, remove the stocking (with all teh gunk too), put your new thermostat in and fill the cooling system back up.
problem solvered.

Thanks smoke. I guess you can hire air compressors anyway.

you can get air compressors with accessories for $100-200.

Thats the left hand side of the block not right....Drivers side is right and passenger is left...its like grabbing ur womans tits....in ur right hand is her left tit not right tit. Hard to understand but thats how it works.

Use razor blades for the block to get it smooth. It works well. Remember the head gaskit is think so it gives a little bit but not tooo much.

Just put the head bolts back in the holes and work around them.

Just dropped the head off to be pressure tested, little grind on the bottom and a clean and the radiator to be cleaned out.

I remember cleaning this plug is a good idea, if yes, how do I clean it?


And here's just a progress picture on cleaning the block.

Okay, here's some high resolution attachments.

First there's this indicator/guide on the right back of the block that I can't use the drill with wire attachment on. Will steel wool take care of it?

Next is you can see the coolant galleries have some build up at the top, should I get rid of that, push it down into the gallery? It's pretty tough stuff.

Last is just some more build up down the front of the block, can't squease the drill/wire brush in there. Will steel wool get rid of this crap, or should I try harder?

Finally, when I get it all off, what ensemble of equipment should I use to get the block crystal clean, and ready for the head? What sort of rubbing material, and what chemicals?

Also what do to about the piston, how should I remove the buildup on them, and what do I use to clean them once I get the build up off?

 

 

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The guides should pull out.

I wouldn't worry too much about the buildup in the coolant galleries.

Try some fine emery paper wrapped around a block of wood to clean away the buildup at the front of the block.

I also would worry about cleaning the block down now. As long as all the mating surfaces are clean the entire engine can be steam cleaned or degreased later once it is re-assembled.

Pull outyou say, lol, hmmm. I'll give it a try, but don't like my chances.

Just to review questions.

What chemical and cleaning utensil do I use on the block?

And ditto for the pistons?